Danger Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Greetings all. I have a ball joint that I cannot for the life of me get to budge, either from the steering knuckle or the LCA, even using a couple of different ball joint removal tools. I have followed everything on here I have read and still nothing. What are my next steps? A new knuckle? Are there any good sources for used/rebuilt knuckles? What else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 My dealer got me a $114 knuckle overnight and delivered it to my trusted mechanic. For all the time you've spent...that's cheap money. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FknBoss Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Air hammer with pickle fork attachment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 if you have a big socket or piece of pipe, with a large washer and nut that will thread onto the BJ threads, you can sometimes use that as a puller. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FknBoss Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Are you going the right direction. I always used an air hammer they come right out. The vibration they make breaks them loose. If not try heat the expanding and contraction from heating and cooling usually will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_riz0212 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Took me a few days to get mine, pb blaster, heat, smash, repeat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkk. Mgs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I have Snypa's Ball Tugger tool. It worked wonders. I can "rent" it to you for a couple bucks, but it likely wouldn't get to you until late next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purple_duckk Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 So I see I'm not the only one doing ball joints. My question is, I bought the OEM parts from my local dealer but the shaft is still sticking too far down through the control arm. I would either have to tighten the castled nut up further and make it so the cotter pin would be useless or not tighten it enough and put the cotter through the castled nut. I thought I had it seated all the way in, the metal top is all the way in and the rubber boot is the only thing out of the knuckle. Do I have to do something differently or add washers or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Make sure they gave you the correct part. Do you have the part number? They could have given you the wrong part. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purple_duckk Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hmm, good call. I just assumed they would give me the right part. I got part number 20206AJ000. It looks right according to Google. I'd it supposed to press into the knuckle past where the rubber boot starts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Pickle fork, heat, and a mini sledge did the trick for me. They were really stuck in there though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purple_duckk Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Turns out there is a tapered piece that is welded on I to the old ball joint that I assumed was just part of it. have to go bang it off and jam it in the new one. So..... I'm retarded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 I tried the following very unorthodox method after spending hours on my rusted ball joint. I got my sawzall with the blade against the ball joint just below the knuckle to basically vibrate and "twist" the ball joint till it freed. Again, try at your own risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus_Colorado Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Have you tried one of these? One of these, a impact driver (or elbow grease) and a hammer to help it getting out usually works well better than a pickle fork.. $20 at Harbor Freight... http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_12294.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Turns out there is a tapered piece that is welded on I to the old ball joint that I assumed was just part of it. have to go bang it off and jam it in the new one. So..... I'm retarded. There is a tapered insert in the LCA hole where the BJ stud goes so make sure that it's in there or on the BJ and you should be all set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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