Oil suggestions for 2013 3.6R?

Yeah yeah, flame away! I'm ready for it.

 

Rotella T6, Sub filter on my LGT. Good there.

 

It's time for my first oil change on my 3.6R. I wanted to see what people were running in there's. I am considering staying with T6 for this application as well. I know, no turbo, but the H6 still have to generate a fair amount of heat and can benefit from the thicker weight. Otherwise thinking Castrol Euro 0w30, though in NorCal it's starting to warm up so the 0 isn't helping anything. Thought.

 

My prediction, stick with 5w30, why put in 40?

I've used Castrol Edge (Gold) 5W30 and Amsoil Signature 5W30. Both good for our engines.

Currently running Motul 8100 Eco-clean 5W-30. Recommended by AZP. Happy with it, slightly better fuel milage it seems.

 

I've been eyeing the Rotella T6 too because a lot of ppl with the H6 seem to recommend it. I like the 40 range.

I ran T6 in my 2.5i Impreza when it hit 80k miles. The car had more power, even towards the 3750 OCI, with 30 weight it would have no power by that time. That's why I figured couldn't hurt in the 3.6R.

 

I am just wondering if I should stick with 30 since this will be the cars very first oil change, then switch over to 40 a few changes down the line.

 

What MPG are you getting? I'm traveling 84 miles per day, I'm getting 21 MPG, with mixed mountain, hiway, stop and go. Though I get in the commute lane the last 20 miles or so.

I average 20-21mpg with mixed driving (lots of city).

Typically get 25-26mpg with more highway.

Bump that up to 29-30 mpg with all highway.

Best I've ever seen is 32mpg (got 500+ miles out of one tank).

 

I'm going to try T6 at my next oil change. Will be late summer, early fall by then. And then likely use it again in the Winter.

Ok, seems about the same as I'm getting. Just hit 2700 miles and haven't reset the MPG readout, it stays at 21 all the time. Obv you have a 2010 with I assume quite a bit more miles than me. We shall see what I pick up this weekend for oil.

There's no reason to run anything thicker than a 10w-30 synthetic in the 3.6L, non turbo engine. The reason I include SAE 10w-30 is that the high temperature properties of this grade - particularly with predominately Group III base stocks - tends to be better than 5w-30.

 

All things being equal, an oil with a lower HTHS viscosity will provide the best fuel efficiency. The first number (0w,5w,10w, etc) comes into play during the warmup phase, where a lower number means less viscous drag, which helps higher fuel efficiency. For your climate you're not likely to see much difference between 0w-30/5w-30/10w-30 because it simply doesn't get cold enough. The exception would be if you spent lots of time in the Sierra during ski season. Having lived in Cali for five years and spent lots of time driving up to Mammoth, it does get cold up there. If I were you I'd try 0w-30 and 10w-30 synthetics of the same brand (say Mobil 1) and just see if you can quantify any differences in fuel efficiency, oil consumption and subjective NVH (noise/vibration/harshness).

 

The only possible advantage I can see to running an XW-40 synthetic in this application is that it may reduce the noise of the very long timing chain. However you'll give up a few percent in fuel efficiency with a more viscous lube - both during the warmup phase and under steady state conditions. A 5w-30 will generally be thinner than a 5w-40 under all conditions. If you plot their relative viscosities as a function of oil temperature this is readily apparent. Any left over 5w-40 or 10w-40 synthetic you have in the garage can certainly be used in this motor, there's just no quantifiable advantage in sticking with this grade.

 

It's possible after these engines have been around a few more years and I see additional oil analysis data that I'll change my mind on these oil viscosity recommendations, but time will tell.

 

TS

Thanks. Yeha I know about the 0/5/10w being for the start up temps. I ended up going with Castrol 5w30 this time around. I'll prob keep with that for the first 10k miles, then see how it's doing.

Nice. Can't go wrong with that oil.

Especially the Gold Castrol Edge (rather than the Black).

 

In Europe, it seems that they have a new Castrol Edge FST now as well... marketing referes to it as 'with Fluid Strenght Technology'

 

http://castroledge.com/tested-to-perform/fluid-strength-technology

http://castroledge.com/oil-range/ (5W30 and 5W40)

 

Not surprised they get this latest product because they also got the Edge series about 3-5 years before we did here in the US.

Nice. Can't go wrong with that oil.

Especially the Gold Castrol Edge (rather than the Black).

 

In Europe, it seems that they have a new Castrol Edge FST now as well... marketing referes to it as 'with Fluid Strenght Technology'

 

http://castroledge.com/tested-to-perform/fluid-strength-technology

http://castroledge.com/oil-range/ (5W30 and 5W40)

 

Not surprised they get this latest product because they also got the Edge series about 3-5 years before we did here in the US.

 

Not the same as U.S. Edge. Our 5W-30 Edge Titanium is a very thin 30 grade oil at 9.8 cSt's at 100C. I don't think any of the Euro Edge's are that thin. It did return some good results in a recent Amsoil comparison test though.

 

-Dennis

Hmm so the "normal" castrol synth is a bit on the thin side? Similar to Mobil 1? I almost picked up the 0w30 Euro, but since it's getting to be summer in NorCal, I didn't think the 0w would be that good for start ups in warmer weather. I'll have to look for the Titanium next time (Gold).

 

Thanks!

All the API/SN & GF-5 rated, xw-30 oils are formulated on the thin side to optimize fuel efficiency. Even Amsoil reduced the viscosity of their 30 weight oils when the previous SM and GF-4 specs came out. You have to look for an ACEA A3/B3/B4 product if you want to be assured of something thicker. You could certainly run the 0w-30, Syntec European formula year round, although it doesn't meet the latest API specifications. That doesn't bother me, but you should be aware of it.

 

TS

Redline 5W/30 and Purolator Pure One for me.

Hmm so the "normal" castrol synth is a bit on the thin side? Similar to Mobil 1? I almost picked up the 0w30 Euro, but since it's getting to be summer in NorCal, I didn't think the 0w would be that good for start ups in warmer weather. I'll have to look for the Titanium next time (Gold).

 

Thanks!

In a perfect world, one would be able to look at the information on the bottle of oil to determine how thin or thick it is. The first number on the bottle is based on the cold cranking viscosity test at -30C for 5W and -35 for 0W. http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm

 

Above 0C (and probably a little lower) a 0W-30 like Castrol 0W-30 Euro (GC) is problably thicker than something like Castrol Edge Titanium 5W-30. At 100C, the Edge Ti is just barely a 30 grade while the GC is nearly a 40 grade.

 

You can plot oils on a viscosity graph to get an idea of the actual viscosity of the temperatures that you will encounter.

http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

 

Unfortunately, you cannot plot Castrol Edge Titanium 5W-30 as Castrol doesn't want to share the viscosity at 40C. They only list it as "ok".

Castrol Product Data Sheet . You might be able to find the info from other sources though.

They seem to be rare, but you might be able to find some uoa's on the H6 at bobistheoilguy. I would only go to a 40 grade oil if uoa's show that the H6 is tough on oil.

 

-Dennis

I'll give Redline a try in the future. I know there has been a million oil posts; I've read most of them.

 

Stumbled across this outdated article, but still interesting.

 

 

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

I'll give Redline a try in the future. I know there has been a million oil posts; I've read most of them.

 

Stumbled across this outdated article, but still interesting.

 

 

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Ha. The good old Timken machine test which is used to test Extreme Pressue additives in gear oils and greases and has zero relevance for engine oils.

 

I did find a few uoa's by just using google. Here's one on Red Line 5W-30:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2392497

 

Just keep your intervals at less than 10k or less and you'll be fine.

 

More on the Timken Machine:

I saw the phrase “60 O.K. Timken Load” on a tube of lubrication. What does that mean?

Between 1935 and 1972, The Timken Company produced and sold a lubricant test machine that was used to determine the EP (extreme pressure) characteristics of grease and oil lubricants. It became an industry-standard test. A bearing race is mounted on a tapered arbor that is rotating at a high speed. A square, steel test block is then loaded against the rotating race, with the contact area flooded with the test lubricant. The load on the block is increased in increments until the oil film is broken and the spinning race produces a score mark on the test block. The load-value that produces the score is then called the Timken “O.K.” load rating.

 

It was generally assumed that the higher the O.K. value, the more load the lube could hold without the film strength being compromised. However, this is not necessarily the case, and the primary purpose of the test is to determine whether or not the lube has an EP additive. Values higher than 35 lbs. indicate the presence of an EP additive.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/lubrication/Pages/faq.aspx

 

The only oil company that uses this machine in their marketing is Royal Purple.

 

-Dennis

Awesome, thanks for the info. I was going to search for some UOA's. I am driving 42 miles one way, so the redline looks like it will work out for that. I may end up going Castrol German 0w30, if it's going to have less shear than the Catrol Edge/Ti.

 

Choices choices, wonder why there's a million oil threads. LOL

The Timken load test is only an accepted, ASTM (American Society for Testing of Materials) method for evaluating greases. These are expected to work at ambient temperatures. By contrast, the antiwear additives in modern engine oils are heat activated and don't become fully effective until the bulk oil temps exceed ~ 75F (roughly 170F). If you allow the oil in the Timken rig to slowly heat up, you get wildly different results.

 

TS

I've seen that test before, I'm sure on some lat night infomercial, but never looked into it, nor thought about it till seeing that article. Interesting and makes sense. Makes me think of the gears that you can spin with the oil on them in some of the auto parts stores, or used to have. You could spin the crank to see how thick the oil was while moving between the gears. All ambient temps, so obv not really showing anything real world use. Marketing is great.

Redline oil is a good product for HiPo applications, but you're not going to tell much from that Timken testing.

 

TS

My modest opinion I suggest Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4.

SAE 0W-40,

ACEA A3/B4,

API SN/CF,

We've had very good results in blackstone lab results for Amsoil 5w30 signature in 7-10k intervals. Motul 5w30 X-Clean 8100 C3 for a more economical oil and good blackstone results in the 5-7k mile range.

 

Ones we would not suggest:

Mobil 1 5w30

Subaru Synthetic 5w30

 

Rotella is ok, but the only place local for us to get it is walmart. Call us a conspiracy theorist but Walmart seems to press manufacturers for mass market items, and I feel that when pressed these manufacturers will send them the products that just barely make the QC cutoff since it is being private labelled.

 

-mike

Still rocking the Original Motor & VF-40 Turbo with Amsoil 0w-30 & Ea oil filters,15k OCI. Stage 2+, custom tune at 18.5psi.

 

Oil history from day1:

 

New. SOA filter & oil 4000 miles

1st. oil & filter change till 30k, Mobil1, 5w-30 every 6000 miles \ Fram oil

filter every 3000 miles.

Amsoil 0w-30 SSO and Amsoil Ea oil filter, Ea15k13 oil filter at 30k-73k .

At 73K, my filtration I use.http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ons-81741.html My oil system now is 7qt. I add 2-4qts over the 15k OCI.

Oil consummation hasn't change sense car was new.

Most off the shelf oil filter, filter down between 20 & 40 microns. Amsoil full-flow oil filter is 15 microns & Amsoil By-Pass oil filter is 2 microns.

This filtration system add 2qts. of oil to you motor. Which help keep the oil cooler.

 

My GT mileage; over 227k

 

My G\F's 05 WRX (Totaled)use same oil & OCI, but uses 1 single spin-on, Ea15k13 oil filter. The WRX as over 150k. I add 2-4qts over the 15k OCI.

Oil consummation hasn't change sense car was new.

My 07 Pontiac Solstice GXP, 2.0L DI turbo charge motor, Same oil & OCI, but No Ea filter is available. I use a WIX filter. Change oil filter only every 5k. GXP as over 89k. No oil consummation over it's 15k OCI.

 

In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use oil & filter that will protect for the OCI your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed.

 

Pics. of my heads\cams with about 200k.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/images/statusicon/wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/1119122111_zpsa9db5ddd.jpg

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/images/statusicon/wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/1119122035_zps18cd8af5.jpg

 

Pics. at almost 220k of bottom of engine with oil pan remove.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132030_zpse01f0f58.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132059_zpsc873e54e.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132057_zps3d53bf8b.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132054_zps88be02d8.jpg

 

Clean enough you can read the stamp lettering on the connecting rods.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132101_zps3274215b.jpg

 

Original OEM oil pan (which was replaced do to rust blisters) with no metal flake.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132116_zpsc521a2cc.jpg

Mike