Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

blown turbo?


Recommended Posts

so finished timing belt, drove around the block and stuff to try and reset computer. Few minutes into driving I started losing power when it should be at boost, if you try and give it a lil more gas at that point it does nothing, but backfire through what sounds like the intake...soon after I you smell the cat getting hot "sulpher smell". I pulled back into the driveway to check it out. Car idles so low in gear "automatic" it dies, idles bout 600 in neutral and park. Shut the engine off and inspected under hood, noticed exhaust side of turbo was glowing some " shouldn't have gotten that hot that fast with pretty much never seeing much boost imo", o2 bung below turbo was glowing bright orange also.

 

another weird noise, and signs. When the car started back firing, a loud nocking noise appeared which is why I drove it back home. I put on my mechanic stethoscopes and the nocking becomes noticable on cold side of turbo, really loud on exhaust side of turbo, and fades in the downpipe area. I listened to heads, block, timing cover and nock only audible through stethoscope in turbo...but outside of car without stethoscope it sound like in the motor on passenger side. Also noticed oil in intake side of intercooler flange, and more than id consider normal on intake tube "connects to discharge side of intercooler" going into intake manifold.

 

my assumption is at some point oil seals failed in turbo before I bought the car, I never noticed since I haven't driven it alot in the 3 weeks I've owned it. But now my turbo is seized and the lack of boost, plus backpressure at exhaust turbine? Is causing the exhaust side of turbo to get extremely hot, in turn heating up o2 sensor messing up computer a/f output, causing pre-det "intake backfire"?

 

or anyone else have an idea. Sound like a seized turbo? turbo making nocking sounds possible "sounds like rod nock"? Seized turbo cause issues described above?

 

new turbo, best drop in replacement but an upgrade over stock, preferably not needing tuning right away but capable of lets say reliably 300-330whp DD capable with tune in future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not yet, I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the turbo...just wanted some opinions before taking anything else apart. If it gets to where I need to I'll prolly just look at upgrading turbo, downpipe, crosspipe and manifolds while I'm at it.

 

just trying to narrow down possibilities. I'm almost 100% certain its in time after doing timing belt, I didn't do crank position sensor tho it was one of the codes, figuring the code was thrown for the timing being off on passenger side when I replaced timing belt. Hoping maybe something else may be wrong causing the running issues, but would be nice to know if its as simple as just replacing the turbo... Even if its a larger chunk of money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure the timing marks are all lined up the way they should be ?

 

You need to pull the DP and check for shaft play in/out, up/down on the turbo. Do not start the engine again untill you've done those two things.

 

If its the turbo be sure and replace the oil return hose and pull the banjo filter from the back of the head.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm guessing timing now. Pulled out my scanner and codes were for cyl 1 and 3 misfire. How its not in time has me scratching my head, cause the 8th and final time I put timing belt on everything was lined up perfectly. Do you have to advance or retard any cams a tooth before pulling pin and applying tension? Working so much just don't have time to mess with it, dropped it off at my buddies shop to check timing and fix.

 

he's gonna check turbo, pretty sure its bad with the mocking sound coming from it. What dies the spool sound like on a good running stock turbo with stock intake, exhaust, and manifolds? Is it noticeable? I haven't heard it spool since I bought it, what I thought was it spooling sounded more like a air chuck being blown into a steel pipe.

 

I ordered all new oil and coolant lines for it, but just like the boost gauge it hasn't been a priority with all the other repairs "timing belt, water pump, cooling fan, shorts in headlight and dome light, wiring up clip to coil pack, replacing coil pack etc."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also, car ran better before timing belt, but still missed when it should be seeing boost. Idle was rough before timing belt too, especially in gear but didn't die like it does now when put into gear. The 2 codes was crank position sensor "timing too advanced the most likely reason" and cyl 3 misfire " which had a fouled plug from the previous owner wiring up generic electrical prongs and plugging into coil pack instead of using the coil pack connector".

 

after new plugs "ngk iridium ix" and all new coil packs, and timing belt. I now have a cyl 1 and 3 misfire code, the mocking sound is still there from before "heat shield now removed to find an oil leak in that area, which I now believe is the o-ring in intercooler.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as far as removing filters in the banjos, do I need to remove both when I get to that point? I ordered OEM lines from Subaru dealer, bit haven't paid for or picked them up yet with messing with everything else. Is there an aftermarket kit with filters already removed? Do I need to do anything special to OEM replacement banjos or lines?

 

I read the write up on removing them awhile back, but its kinda vague in my mind on everything but location of them. I plan to refresh my memory over the holidays when I finally get time away from work " been working 62-66hrs a week for 4 month" lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

talked to my buddy this morning. Timing was good, so he checked compression. Cyl 1 and 3 had compression around 85-90...2 and 4 was around 150.

 

guess I somehow have bent valves? So I need guidance fellas. Would it be cheaper to buy a complete head/heads... or have a shop rebuild heads? Think there may be damage to piston? Think I should just rebuild motor? Would it be cheaper to rebuild or could I find a replacement under 2k? Would the 2.0 jdm motor work? Seeing more of those than the ej255.

 

its just been one thing after another. Should've walked away. Now I need heads rebuilt, probably gonna need pistons too...which leads to other things to replace. Need a new turbo.

 

now I'm just trying to find the cheapest way out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It'll be worth the outcome.

Heads can be rebuilt.

Best option is new short block. Yes all the banjo bolt filters must come out. Super easy. Unbolt them. Stick something small in the bolt itself and pry out the filter, I used a small drill bit.

Best thing to do is look at MRTris' shopping list. Cheapest way to get it back on the road. Also read read read. Read build threads, read threads where people have problems, read like a book worm. These cars are cool. Worth the outcome. Good luck. We're all here to help you through. Most of us have been in your shoes 😅

Link to comment
Share on other sites

talked to my buddy this morning. Timing was good, so he checked compression. Cyl 1 and 3 had compression around 85-90...2 and 4 was around 150.

 

guess I somehow have bent valves? So I need guidance fellas. Would it be cheaper to buy a complete head/heads... or have a shop rebuild heads? Think there may be damage to piston? Think I should just rebuild motor? Would it be cheaper to rebuild or could I find a replacement under 2k? Would the 2.0 jdm motor work? Seeing more of those than the ej255.

 

its just been one thing after another. Should've walked away. Now I need heads rebuilt, probably gonna need pistons too...which leads to other things to replace. Need a new turbo.

 

now I'm just trying to find the cheapest way out.

 

If the timing was good, I don't see how the valves got bent. And even if the timing belt was off by a tooth or two I find it hard to believe you would have had valve to piston contact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that's something that's driving me crazy to figure out. If I have a misfire on 1&3, and my buddy that I trust isn't trying to screw me over says I have low compression in those cylinders than I trust him.

 

but part of me wants to buy all new exhaust components and a turbo and see what that does. But the gut feeling is that's not gonna solve the low compression.

 

so really I'm lost on where to begin, and go once I start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i know the timing was perfect, and he verified it was good. its really running the exact same way, just a bit more rough...rough enough to now die from low idle in gear, and backfire through intake with more than 1/4 throttle. once in awhile during acceleration...itll smooth out and pick up and go, but only briefly then fall back on its face.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you suspect a turbo failure also swap out the oil cooler. I kinda skipped over that part to get back on the road as it was my DD at the time and 2 months later I no longer had it as a DD.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use