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Nameless Downpipe: Official 5th Gen GT Install Thread


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I don't think weather has much to do with the over boost here in Hawaii it was mid day bout 90degress wgdc set at 0 and still hiting21-24 psi

 

Do you have a cat back? That makes a difference too. He is on a stock exhaust as I am so maybe it will help.

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When I was overboosting I was running my stock midpipe with 5" nameless axel backs

Now running nameless catback

From what I read about eleckseven and apex

And from my experience I don't think anything would help with the overboosting except for changing the downpipe,

With the nameless one no matter what my tuner did u can't fully drive or wot without it overboosting n no one wants to drive around out of boost for months like I did , n hats off to eleckseven I imagine he's been out of boost forever now and thinks his gt is a 2.5i

Edited by haruichi808
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When I was overboosting I was running my stock midpipe with 5" nameless axel backs

Now running nameless catback

From what I read about eleckseven and apex

And from my experience I don't think anything would help with the overboosting except for changing the downpipe,

With the nameless one no matter what my tuner did u can't fully drive or wot without it overboosting n no one wants to drive around out of boost for months like I did , n hats off to eleckseven I imagine he's been out of boost forever now and thinks his gt is a 2.5i

 

Well not quite, jackal found a way around it IIRC. His metal restrictor plate did the trick. So far noone has installed the DP on a stock exhaust so that will be interesting to see the mufflers definitely add some backpressure.

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Imo the prudent thing to do would be to get a base tune with only spring pressure at first and see if there are issues. I'm sure one of our tuners would be willing to work with us on the issue.

 

 

Sure. If anyone wants a zero WGDC base map they can PM me with their CALID.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Just as a refresher for everyone for what I've been through -

 

Phase 1 Started out with full AVO cat back.

After resolving the initial problem with the flapper not opening (by hitting the tube with a hammer to make clearance) car would still overboost triggering a CEL. This would easily happen in a 3rd gear pull. I'd be at 21 psi before reaching 4k RPM. Temp at the time was ~40. This was with a temporary tune set to 0 WGDC.

 

Phase 2 Switched to stock cat back

Temps now 50-60. Could no longer hit boost cut and throw CEL in a 3rd gear pull. But despite running a 0 WGDC map, boost would creep to ~18 psi.

 

Phase 3 Switched to AVO axle back

Temps still 50-60, still using temp map. Boost still creeping to ~18 psi.

 

I've heard conflicting thoughts on how much boost you should see with a 0 WGDC map, but my former tuner said "boost should be lower than 15 psi, but if you get boost creep it may reach 15 psi". So to me this indicates the DP does not deliver on the promise of no boost creep.

 

As for why some of you would hit 20 psi and beyond with a stock cat back on a hotter day, I don't know. Perhaps the flapper can't open or can only partially open?

Edited by eckseleven
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Yeah I've been pretty much just not going full wot in 4th, I seem to be okay going wot (or pretty close to) in first through third, but like I mentioned a while ago, If I get into it hard in 4th I'll creep up to 23.5 range. My target is set to 22.5 and my tuner said a while back he was having to drop the wgdc down to about 0 around 3500rpm (or something close to that) because thats when the car would slightly overboost, and I think the max wgdc I see is around 55..

Before when he was starting to tune before tinkering with the wg etc. it would be hitting like 25psi+/- around 3500-4k which would be sweet if I had a built motor and or atleast arp headstuds haha

 

So far in the past month I have slightly overboosted to 23psi flat a couple times, but it was cooler outside on those days. When I've ripped it on a very hot day I havent hit target but usually I'll peak around 20.5psi. I haven't really been in contact with my tuner to much since WBM since I decided that I can't really afford to have them play around with adjusting the actuator, putting everything back together, tuning, and possibly having to rinse and repeat that cycle. Had to go through that when initially tuning and the bill was quite high. I still need to pick up the junk 20g so when I get up there I will still try to get him to do a little write up of what he saw and what his plan would be to correct the issue. For now, I'm just hoping the Cobb flexfuel can be an option to run for next spring and I can mess with the actuator or something when she's up on stands for the winter.. Or go with Jackal's route with a custom header and ewg..though I would probably have it plumbed back in because even though the downpipe is creating issues, the whole nameless TBE sounds insane

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I don't think anyone has tried the dp with a stock exhaust yet.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

I did as well. No creep. Target was/is 18 and I never saw higher than 18.5

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There is really no way to do that the turbo on one side and the cat on the other...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

Could you go through one of the bungs in between the turbo and the cat?

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Feed it up the bypass tube while just having the short part of the downpipe bolted up? doesnt the bypass tube dump out right in front of the wg flapper?

http://i.imgur.com/OhzHvXt.jpg

Edited by Zakster87
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Feed it up the bypass tube while just having the short part of the downpipe bolted up? doesnt the bypass tube dump out right in front of the wg flapper?

 

I did this after I already knew I had a problem and had disassembled it and tapped with a hammer. Put the scope in there to take a peak at things afterwards.

 

What may be easier to see if you have interference is to take a hand pump and pressurize the actuator. The shop I had went to did this and could hear a distinct metal-on-metal noise when the flapper hit.

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You could more easily tell by checking the wastegate flapper arm on the outside behind the heat shield.

 

I found the rod difficult to see from below (although I didn't bother removing any heat shields). I ended up using the scope for that as well. Here is a video of the experiement I posted several pages back:

 

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Mike from Tuning Alliance got back to me on my first set of logs and provided a revision to the tune. Says things look pretty good. So it seems to me that with the stock midpipe and weather this time of year I'll be ok with this DP. Still is a bummer that the DP didn't live up to the promises and allow me to use the rest of my pricey AVO exhaust. But I'm happy to be able to drive normally again and really get in to the boost.
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Got my turboxs downpipe installed. I'm just contemplating whether I should contact nameless now or wait for some sort of collective effort by everyone to sort this out. I don't really think contacting them right now would do any good I'm sure they'll tell me the same thing they've told everyone else.
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Since when does TurboXS make a DP for us?

 

That's exactly what I asked when the dudes at Andrewtech said they had one in stock. Not sure how many they made or if they even did a full production run but they happened to have a single catless one laying around.

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