Ran into a problem: oil in spark plug tubes

I decided today was a nice enough day to replace the spark plugs on my 06 2.5i so I pulled the intake hose, battery etc and started on drivers side front spark plug. That one went well. Then to the rear driver's side spark plug but when I pulled the wire it was covered in oil, quite a bit actually . I pulled the wires on both passenger plugs to check and they are both dry so it's just the one that's leaking.

I plan to head back outside and finish the spark plug job since I started, but from what I understand I'll need to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube gasket on the driver's side. Here's my question. Since I started the spark plug swap and it may be a few weeks before I can get the gaskets replaced myself (unless I pay someone to do it) should I replace the rear spark plug once again as well too?

Edit: I finished up and noticed that the front passenger side tube was a little damp that I missed upon initial inspection, so both sides need to be replaced.

How hard is it to replace the spark plugs and gaskets? I am at ~60K miles and need to do this.

X

The spark plugs are easy... not easy like on the past Chrysler vehicles I've owned in the past, but a piece of cake compared to my 98 Outback... I couldn't even fit my hand between the engine and frame so I paid someone to swap plugs for me! My 06 Legacy was easy. Pull the air intake on the passenger side to gain access and pull the battery on the driver's side.

You'll need:

regular and phillips screw drivers

3/8" drive socket wrench with 2 3" extensions and 1 6" extension

5/8" spark plug socket, 10mm socket, 12mm socket

a couple metric open end wrenches for the battery terminals (I forget what size)

some dialectic grease and some anti-seize

How hard is it to replace the valve cover gaskets. Here's my situation: I live in an apartment and I only have my parking space to work in. The pavement is not level and is somewhat uneven. I have an air compressor, but no air tools yet, a socket set and general hand tools. As I mentioned earlier, my hands won't fit to swap spark plugs on my 2nd gen so how likely is it that I can do this myself? It looks like Rock Auto sells a kit fairly inexpensive. The dealer wants $290 to do this job. I haven't had the opportunity to price up anywhere else.

Um the easiest way to the valve covers is the top of the engine bay but you may have to come up to get to the lower rear bolt on each if you cant snake a box end wrench in there. The passenger side i am sure you can get a socket on all but the lower rear and a wrench will get the last one. Driver side is more compact and that lower one can be tricky.

If you follow my plug change guide:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5i-spark-plug-tutorial-117769.html?t=117769&highlight=spark+plug

That will show you how to make room on both sides to get to the covers bolts.

I'll be doing the same thing in a couple days... while starting the whole "changing the timing belt" I found oil in my tubes... There's TONS of room in there when the radiator is out of the car ('01 legacy)... and the gaskets for the 3rd gen is $25... You can do it!!! just put the car on stands (or ramps)... as long as you don't mind getting dirty... I buy the 100pack of latex type gloves at walmart (in the pharmacy section)... keeps the grit and crap out of my fingernails...

I just hope I don't make a huge mess on my floor... I may buy one of those pans at walmart for $8 bucks or whatever... that could be pretty handy.

I read the covers need 4ft-lbs of torque... Does this need to be every/other type deal? or start on the bottom ones and go to the top ones (like the waterpump)?

This also is a clue that you need a torque wrench if you want to do it "properly" yourself... With engine type things, I use a torque wrench, for other stuff... I tighten until I'm satisfied.

I just made an appointment at Innivative Tuning in Buffalo. They quoted me $76 in labor and I figure that's worth the headache this would likely create since I have limited tools and no garage. I went on Advance Auto's website and they show two Feloro kits. Which should I buy? Anything else I should get or be aware of?

$76 is a great price, and what did the dealer quote you on the gaskets ? Felpro probably shows one for the DOHC and one for the SOHC make sure you get the SOHC

I'll have to double check. Advance showed a regular fel-pro one and a fel-pro pro or something like that.

The dealer wanted $290 out the door. The local shop wanted to charge 2.5hrs @$60/hr.

I need to get my LCA bushings installed too, but Innovative wanted 2.5hrs @$95 for that so I may have them do it, but priority will be finding someone with experience and had a press who wants to help me out for a few bucks.

Um yeah ive pressed them in/out with a bench clamp sheared pies of slightly smaller dia pipe you can def do the LCA's as long as you have some prowess and the right tools.

So the dealer wouldn't price the gaskets with the labor, oh well you are getting a good deal on the labor as of now.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t51254-diy-valve-cover-spark-plug-gasket-install.html

..BAM!

Does anyone have a complete list of part numbers? I was given the following part numbers by a vendor on this site, but seems like we need more:

1 - 13294AA070 (valve cover gasket)

2 - 10966AA030 (spark plug seals)

This also is a clue that you need a torque wrench if you want to do it "properly" yourself... With engine type things, I use a torque wrench, for other stuff... I tighten until I'm satisfied.

Could you recommend a decent, affordable wrench for this application?

I ordered a Fel-Pro kit that comes with everything.

I have a HF torque wrench that does not seem to work for lower torque levels. It does work well for torqing lug nuts etc though. I figured I'd pay someone for this job. Too much else in my plate right now and the price if a good torque wrench and low profile sockets were more than the labor at the shop.

Just an update....

The Fel-Pro kit does not fit. VS50561R is the P/N that Fel-Pro lists on their website, Napa says fit as well as Advance and Auto Zone. Innovative took my valve covers off and the gasket does not sit right. They called their local parts guy and they had another gasket kit there in 15min, but it was the same exact Fel-Pro kit. We ended up ordering OEM gaskets from Northtown Subaru. Unfortunately, the gaskets will not be in until Monday morning so I had to leave my car at Innovative and have my wife come pick me up (1.5hr drive each way). Needless to say I am not very happy about this and I plan to write Fel-Pro to request that they pay me the difference of what the job would have been and what it will cost me with 2 extra 140 mile round trips, and extra time at the shop. Wish me luck!

Just received my order from Rock Auto and the box for the Fel-Pro VS50561R has a printed application guide on it that DOES NOT include anything newer than 2005. That made me double check the app guides at Rock Auto and Amazon AND Fel-Pro's own site. They all say it works for my 2007 Outback 2.5i. ?????? Why wouldn't Fel-Pro's own box be updated especially since they tout it as "an improved design"??

The only confirmation I can find on the internet about using this kit in a 2006-2009 Outback (Legacy) is your post. F*** I don't want to take my car apart and find this kit does not fit.

Yeah... It doesn't fit. Go get gaskets from the dealer.

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guys so i got this job done a few days ago with original subaru parts. took it to a mechanic that did the work in front of me. they seemed to know exactly what they were doing. next day saw some oil on the driveway took it back he sprayed brake cleaner and told me drive for a few days and check back with him to see if any leaks. so i took it on the highway to give it a push - bad idea i guess. The car gave me a check engine light on and then when I slowed down after I heard weird noises from engine bay, as I came to the complete stop all the lights on the cluster came on and stayed on. every single one. so i turned the car off and that was it, won't turn on now. even when it does seems like it is struggling to stay on. making some nasty noises. anyone every come across issues like these?

2006 legacy 2.5i wagon

148000kms

recent work done: VGC / spark plugs

guys so i got this job done a few days ago with original subaru parts. took it to a mechanic that did the work in front of me. they seemed to know exactly what they were doing. next day saw some oil on the driveway took it back he sprayed brake cleaner and told me drive for a few days and check back with him to see if any leaks. so i took it on the highway to give it a push - bad idea i guess. The car gave me a check engine light on and then when I slowed down after I heard weird noises from engine bay, as I came to the complete stop all the lights on the cluster came on and stayed on. every single one. so i turned the car off and that was it, won't turn on now. even when it does seems like it is struggling to stay on. making some nasty noises. anyone every come across issues like these?

 

2006 legacy 2.5i wagon

148000kms

recent work done: VGC / spark plugs

did you check the oil at all? if you suspected a leak why wouldn't you check? My bet is that if you pull the dip stick it will be dry.

did you check the oil at all? if you suspected a leak why wouldn't you check? My bet is that if you pull the dip stick it will be dry.

checked all oils the moment it happened and checked it again today. Car has been sitting for about 24hrs now. No leaks visible and and checked all belts also. The only fluid level that has gone down is the Coolant. Im getting codes P0026 / P0028. Car when started up will turn on but develops a knocking noise as the RPMs go into normal range. The car shakes with this knocking noise coming from the engine. Then the car dies literally because it doesn't have enough power to sustain itself. The rpms drop the car shuts off. I can put it into drive and the most I will get is a few inches and car will shut off because of rough idling and knocking noises. Those codes I'm not sure what they mean..

Intake Control Valve Solenoid Circuit

Also one of my engine ground wires is broken. Could this cause this issue? I have quite a few Lights on my dash. Check Engine came on first when I pushed it on the highway and as I came to a stop, the rest came on and are now staying on when I turn the car on