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Subaru Legacy GT Oil Control Valve Any knowledge on changing it?)


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  • 3 years later...
Search "TGV"

 

Gee what a helpful post. Is that the Tran Gran Vitesse or did you mean the OCV.

 

By the way, for those that actually need to change this on the passenger side, as in, if your turbo failed, you need to get a small pry bar and "move" the bracket in the way to remove it. Great Subaru engineering.

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Subaru FSM states to remove the bracket. WE have decided in our infinite wisdom (along with about 7000 Subaru techs) that it's MUCH easier to simply pry the bracket out of the way. That's called innovation ! ! :)
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I'm not sure what sort of magical car gods graced me but I simply removed the front breather hose on the passenger side and was able to slip the old one out and the new one in by rotating the OCV bracket 90° away from the engine and then back to vertical as I inserted it...

 

Edit: just realized holy mother of god bump

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I'm not sure what sort of magical car gods graced me but I simply removed the front breather hose on the passenger side and was able to slip the old one out and the new one in by rotating the OCV bracket 90° away from the engine and then back to vertical as I inserted it...

 

Edit: just realized holy mother of god bump

 

 

Yup just pulled the hose and slide off by rotating it 90*. I did the swap in a parking lot after buying the pair from the dealer. Easier to change these than light bulbs.

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  • 9 months later...
Thread revival. Bent the bracket out of the way and I can get the OCV to rotate 90 degrees but it will not come out. I tried tapping it lightly to no effect. Is there a trick to removal, because it is not simply sliding out?
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Thanks man. I'm used to being rough on the Galant VR-4 but I tend to treat my Legacy like a sweet little princess. I'll put the nuts to it and see if she gives.

 

I know what you mean -- I do, too. Sometimes you just have to beat on it. Relatedly, these cars love to be flogged from time to time, as well -- don't forget to give her some of that when you get done with the job -

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  • 3 weeks later...

I won't be a dick and say to search, but you should search.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-p0021-intake-camshaft-position-timing-over-advanced-18887.html?highlight=OCV

 

 

Doesn't take much time. I used my hand to bend the bracket on the OCV on the passenger side. Was a little bit of a pain to get it bent back when I replaced, but I got it.

 

Mine looked good. I just cleaned with WD and moved the valve up and down to get some of the WD in the solenoid. Got the gunk out of there.

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I won't be a dick and say to search, but you should search.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-p0021-intake-camshaft-position-timing-over-advanced-18887.html?highlight=OCV

 

 

Doesn't take much time. I used my hand to bend the bracket on the OCV on the passenger side. Was a little bit of a pain to get it bent back when I replaced, but I got it.

 

Mine looked good. I just cleaned with WD and moved the valve up and down to get some of the WD in the solenoid. Got the gunk out of there.

 

The forum necessity, telling someone asking for advice to search. Where's the value added in such a statement? I read just about every thread on the subject.

Passenger side came out without issue. Driver side was more of a pain. It was completely seized. I used a small pry bar and rubber mallet to tap it out of place with increasing force as it wouldn't budge. The larger section of the OCV slid out, but the narrow section remained lodged and sheered off. I then used a pick to remove the spring and rubber gasket that were easily accessible. I used a very low heat torch to heat the metal tube very carefully (after of course removing all sensitive plastics, etc. away from the immediate area). I then used some very narrow needle nose pliers to remove the remaining half. After ensuring the old OCV was completely removed, I installed the new unit without issue.

Certainly an easy task when this is not the case. Car has 87k miles on it. Not a very fun time when something gets seized in such a relatively inaccessible location.

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The forum necessity, telling someone asking for advice to search. Where's the value added in such a statement? I read just about every thread on the subject.

Passenger side came out without issue. Driver side was more of a pain. It was completely seized. I used a small pry bar and rubber mallet to tap it out of place with increasing force as it wouldn't budge. The larger section of the OCV slid out, but the narrow section remained lodged and sheered off. I then used a pick to remove the spring and rubber gasket that were easily accessible. I used a very low heat torch to heat the metal tube very carefully (after of course removing all sensitive plastics, etc. away from the immediate area). I then used some very narrow needle nose pliers to remove the remaining half. After ensuring the old OCV was completely removed, I installed the new unit without issue.

Certainly an easy task when this is not the case. Car has 87k miles on it. Not a very fun time when something gets seized in such a relatively inaccessible location.

 

Another Bay Area LGT and a Spec B. NICE!! Hopefully you didn't buy from Capitol Mitsubishi or Stevens Creek Subaru.

 

The reason being is when something is posted and asked many times, why ask again/open a new thread? It just adds to confusion and not being able to find the information you need easily. You don't even need to search the forums, use Google, it can be your friend. I still gave the answer, I know it can be tough to find what you want. I'm sure you are aware other forums would warn people and then ban for something this simple. YAY the interwebz.

 

Sucks about your OVC. The pass side is a pain. Did the rubber melt or something? Wonder why it was so wedged in there. How did it look besides being torn apart? Mine were looking good at 85k.

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No idea why it was so stuck. Forum searching never revealed any solutions to dealing with completely stuck OCVs. Plenty of great info out there, but nothing to deal with that issue. When it broke, I was completely winging it in my attempt to remove the remaining section. My experience, although unique, could still make a decent amendment to a sticky under the "shit went wrong" appendix.

 

I've also had the car for 5 years now and bought it back east in the DC area. Damn thing has been a gem as long as I've owned it.

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  • 3 years later...

Back from the dead. Been dealing with a randomly dying issue on a 2005 LGT 5MT. new engine block and service a while ago and got the engine tuned via open source. Shortly after notice that the engine would die and I would perform a throttle body reset and it seemed to be good for a while. Randomly the car would die when coming to a stop in traffic. No CEL associated with it.

 

I looked up oil control valve and it looks like this is this is for the AVCS?

 

I now have an AP3 on it and had the tuner copy over the map from OS to my AP format and the idle got better but I still get the random dying out.

 

I assume it could be a vacuum leak but if it’s a sticky OCV how do I know which one?

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