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turbo questions(kinda long)


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Ive looked over several threads, loaded with info, but I get lost in them.

 

I have an 05 LGT 5eat Wagon. In the last year it spent more time in the shop(body 2x and mechanicals 1) than I have driven it. Its parked int the Garage (has been since sept) with a failing turbo. It has begun the usual whine from the bearings.

Keep in mind I use premium DINO grade oils, changed @3k since I got it at 60k. It now sits at 150>kmi

Ive tossed the options but figure I throw them to you as well.

Some footnotes:

-Car is STOCK ( except K&N drop in & GMS catback)

-It is 5eat (untouched from factory, no known issues)

-Car through the trouble coeds for failing turbo and ectv(?) 2 hours after I got the car back from sitting in a body shop for 3 months (damn deer)

 

So Im looking to upgrade as research has lead to the VF40 being crap. Typical upgrades have been to the VF52 with great success. Yet upon other searches shops like BNR have upgraded turbos for similar cost or less, AND better improvements over the longterm.

So where to go?

Mach V has these available:

http://fastwrx.com/legt05tuup.html

 

BNR Supercars has these:

http://gonzaloherrero.com/bnr/index.php?option=com_content&task=category§ionid=2&id=25&Itemid=73

 

Then of course you have the VF52 most are in the price range of the BNR and some that Ive been tempted to go with were in the $$ of MACH V goods.

My intentions are simply to get it back on the road, with a little gain in performance yet NOT kill the 5eat. Really dont want to touch the trans. Its been pretty good to me so far.

I have a un-catted up/down available to put in at the same time. I will also state that its safe to say I WILL need a tune of some sort done at completion WITH ANY of these options, am I correct there too?

So those with experience, good or bad, lets hear it. I welcome all, and thanks in advance.

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You will absolutely need a tune. If you really want to improve things, it might be a little more than you're willing to spend now, but a downpipe would really complete that picture for you. Up and turbo ... might as well do down at the same time and roll it all into one tune. My guess is, you will find this amount of power all the upgrade you will ever need. Your transmission should be okay at this power level (somebody with a 5eat correct me here though, since I really only pay attention to what people say about 5mt).

 

If you want a reliable, stock, even-the-dealer-can-do-it turbo ... the VF52 is almost never a bad choice. Build it once, tune it once and then just run it into the ground.

 

BNRs have a pretty solid reputation here too though, so that's usually a solid recommend from people. Don't think you can go too wrong here either. What's your style and price preference? Get that one.

 

By the way, I like the Cobb down. Spendy though. Invidia is pretty nice for a cheaper option. Enjoy!

 

Also, is that an 05 ABP LGT wagon you have there? Nice car. :D

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Replace the up pipe and down pipe first with a hi flow models. :)

 

You won't gain much from ant upgraded turbo since there is major restriction from the down pipe and the up pipe has a cat, and it can destroy your new turbo:)

 

I think the BNR stock Turbo upgrade is the best for a Fast DD

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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Ive got an up and down uncatted already, just hadnt installed. I had originally intended to mod this when I got it. Then after reading up on some of the 5eat stuff decided not to go to far. So the up/down sat on the shelf.

I figure now that I have to change the turbo I may as well put atleast the up in.

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put in the new pipes, and either the vf52 or bnr 16g, and get a solid, conservative dd tune. If you have an extra couple bucks, grab the dw65c fuel pump to add some additional reliability. You COULD also use a new tmic (or bullet proof at the very least), but a conservative tune could avoid this need.

 

As far as the 52 vs 16, that's the age old question. The 52 is far more expensive new. I wouldnt pay $1100+ for a new one, thats for sure. The 16g seems to hold a little more towards redline, but the 52 seems to historically put down slightly higher overall whp dyno numbers. Either way, i havent really heard anyone say they hated either. They are both very close. bnr (bryan nickells) stands behind his product VERY well, and has great customer service. It's as close to a stock as you can get without being all oem.

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Jase, thats what I was looking for, I was heavily leaning toward the bnr16 or 18. Ive come to the conclusion that Its a DD, I have more than enough toy cars and Jeeps to need another. I just want a lil extra and still keep a bit of reliablity. That being said, I have laid out a set of plans for an ls6 and t/56 or the new 6spd manumatic.

If the trans goes, that will be it..lol

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yep, what nrw said... 18g buys you an automatic injector purchase... as well as a mandatory fuel pump, tmic, and likely a 3 port ebcs.

 

There's a lot of info out there... a LOT. lol

 

i spent a few months reading... hurting my brain! 18g is awesome, and i put down a ton of power, but it really depends on your driving style, and where you drive. If you drive mostly city, the 18g is more difficult to get all the power out of. The 18g also forces you change your driving style a bit (rpm wise more or less).

 

If you get 18g power, you should also put endlinks and swaybars on to be able to control that beast a bit. Arguably, this is a great stage 2 mod (or stage 0 actually) as well.

 

And... you have that 5eat... so you will need the tranny mod previously mentioned to help out.

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is the filtered line needed? All I have read is to ditch that thing. It truly is a DD. I live in the "country" and have a few decent roads to "play on". However I work to much for that. My commute has finally gotten short, but uneventful. I doubt Ill need the 18, may want it, not need. Im sure my trans will thank me. thats an area I dont want to mess with right now.
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Jasejase wouldnt know. He has an MT as do I but I think he can confirm that forum consensus is mixed. Some have had no problems with 16g size turbos. Some have experienced some tranny issues. Some have gotten away with more.

 

If I were in your shoes and was not planning on dragstrip abuse, 16g on oem fueling with no tranny mods is where I would start as it seems to make the most sense financially. Can always add VB mod later.

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is the filtered line needed? All I have read is to ditch that thing. It truly is a DD. I live in the "country" and have a few decent roads to "play on". However I work to much for that. My commute has finally gotten short, but uneventful. I doubt Ill need the 18, may want it, not need. Im sure my trans will thank me. thats an area I dont want to mess with right now.

 

Add the filtered line for extra security and to know you've not skipped any steps. My BNR 16g was sent back within a very short time and had been contaminated by debris from my motor failure. (BNR was awesome to rebuild it, at a very small expense to me, even though failure was not his fault. Stand up guy for warranty and questions!)

 

Hey jasejase, is this applicable even with the 16g bnr? I'm on the same year/model, and trying to make sense of this just as the OP.

 

If you love the car and want to keep it, put the HexMods F1 Valve body on your wish list. If you want it back on the road and want it as close to what you've enjoyed now for 90K miles, just make sure you always keep fresh fluids in the tranny, never launch the thing, no parking lot donuts and make sure your tuner dials in the tune to the T.

 

Best of luck.

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last i chekced he wasnt selling oil lines. just turbo. The Infamous filtered oil line is really nice, but pricey.

 

Depends on perspective. Is the KillerB oil pickup or IPT oil line pricey if they potentially save you a motor or a motor AND turbo? It seems like I will be keeping our 4th gens for 10 years or more so it was a simple choice for me.

 

Add the filtered line for extra security

 

:yeahthat: My over-modded LGT and lightly modded OBXT both sport some of the same mods, mods I wish the 4thG came with.

 

Swaybars (oem is horribly underswayed. much more important than struts/springs)

Endlinks (can get away with oem for a while)

Turbo Oil Filter Line Kit (or remove banjo if you feel comfortable with that)

Reinforced Oil Pickup (no brainer, LGT one was cracked when i dropped the pan)

Tune (not a fan of factory tune)

Upgraded Brake Pads (gonna go faster get more brakes)

Upgraded Tires (duh)

 

Hope it helps.

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exactly LAGT.... it is expensive in comparison to the $60 kits out there. Which is what i was relating it to. I did it without second thought. Why sink all this time and money in, and cut a maintenance corner along the way!

 

:)

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