Forget the repo, I'll probably buy this instead...

We can all disregard my thread a few postings down, where I was seriously considering buying a LGT repo. The car was just too beat up with too many question marks to take the chance. Instead I have found a regal blue 2005 Legacy GT Limited on a dealer lot just outside of Pittsburgh. It has 70166 and a clean carfax, two previous owners with pretty regular service history. Selling price is right around $12,500 and I was fortunate to have a local check it out for me and he gave this review...

I had a little time before the meet, so I checked out the car. I have experience with LGT's (I modified one for a customer) so I have a good sense of what to look for, how they feel, etc.

 

In short, this car is about as mint of a lightly modded car as you will find. If I had to guess, the "modder" was a bit older, and used this as a second fun car.

 

I didn't see one door ding, the leather is super clean, and the engine bay is borderline immaculate. The trunk looks like it was never even used. The sales assistant mentioned when the car came in it was super clean. Often this is just hype, but it's pretty easy for me to spot a car that was dirty all of its life, then well-detailed, versus a car that was kept clean and has pretty much stayed that way. This car appears, for lack of a better term, cosmetically "babied."

 

I didn't drive it, but went for a ride in it, and it feels correct in terms of power delivery. No weird noises, smells, etc. I'd venture to say the motor is still healthy.

 

The only negatives I could see/feel was that there are two touch ups on the drivers rear quarter and small one on the hood (2-3" lines like a scratch mark) and the touch-up paint doesnt match; it looks worse than it is since its a dark blue car and lighter blur touch-up. Also, I'd really run the clutch through its paces. Not sure if it was a little bit of chatter or if the guy couldnt drive it that well; without being able to drive it, I cant say for sure if it is on its way out or not. Other than that, it's a total creme-puff.

 

mods i noticed:

 

factory boost gauge

momo shift knob

magnaflow exhaust (not over loud...tasteful looking and sounding)

cobb downpipe

SPT short ram w/ divider

supposedly has an accessport too, but didnt see it anywhere

stock airbox in the trunk, along with a single cargo net.

some type of aftermarket grille (looks pretty good on there)

 

bottom line: if i negotiated the price of this car sight-unseen and purchased it, i would be ecstatic with its visual condition, inside and out. Mechanically, I would give it my blessing as well, but only a real inspection can CYA (its SO easy for these cars to feel normal, yet still have cracked pistons) for sure.

http://www.spitzertoyota.com/Images/Vehicles/2005/Subaru/Legacy%20Sedan/4S3BL676356203532_01_md.jpg

http://www.spitzertoyota.com/Images/Vehicles/2005/Subaru/Legacy%20Sedan/4S3BL676356203532_13_md.jpg

http://www.spitzertoyota.com/Images/Vehicles/2005/Subaru/Legacy%20Sedan/4S3BL676356203532_14_md.jpg

http://www.spitzertoyota.com/Images/Vehicles/2005/Subaru/Legacy%20Sedan/4S3BL676356203532_17_md.jpg

http://www.spitzertoyota.com/Images/Vehicles/2005/Subaru/Legacy%20Sedan/4S3BL676356203532_18_md.jpg

http://www.spitzertoyota.com/Images/Vehicles/2005/Subaru/Legacy%20Sedan/4S3BL676356203532_19_md.jpg

They aren't. I dangled that I had all my own financing lined up and would write them a check to come get it last weekend for somewhere in the high 11's and they wouldn't budge. I'll lose bargaining power with them knowing I'm coming in from out of state. I can't really convince them that I'll walk if they don't lower the price. I would walk, but I can't imagine they would think I'm serious until I leave and don't come right back in the door.

Still seems like it would be a decent deal in the mid 12 range, but I was hoping you guys would have better knowledge than my guess.

If they wont budge on price they might be able to throw in warranty, maybe 3 month 3k miles.

I would also be concerned about the mods. With the downpipe we can assume it was running a stg 2 tune. Is the tune still on the car? Was the Accessport unmarried? Those are a few I would want to know before purchasing. If no tune was ever run then you might be looking at other issues.

You know AirSix has free vehicle reports for members right now. He bought a 20 pack and only used a couple before buying a car. Check out this thread...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129747

I would say all in all that it's a pretty good deal (coming from someone who actually sells Subarus). The only thing I would make sure about is that it does indeed have an accessport. If not, make them throw that in since they are advertising the accessport (assuming they are from the way you've stated things).

The one thing to point out is just because they aren't moving on price it doesn't mean you aren't getting a good deal. The good deal is the fact the car looks really good for its age (which usually doesn't exist) and still getting pricing within the lines of 3rd party resources.

I would caution you with regards to the mods though. See if you can find out more about the previous owner (like what type of person was he/she). This might give you a sense of how it was driven. With regards to the clutch, I would see about having a 3 month warranty thrown in in case it goes out. Most dealerships do something to this extent already...just make sure it's included with your paperwork. Depending on if it was rev happy the "chatter" could also be a flywheel. If you have a tactrix cable or know someone who does, you can run some logs to make sure everything is in check before you buy as well.

All in all though, I would say that from the sounds of it, the car seems good and the deal is not bad by any means.

Lastly, to go a little OT, to the people who thing cash is king in dealerships, honestly, you will have more bargaining power by financing with them as they will think they can make that money back on rates. The trick is to get outside financing so you have a minimum rate. Then say you will be financing with the dealership. After you negotiated the price, tell them the rate you have and see if they can beat it. If they can, then there's no reason not to go with them, but if not, then you at least are already set. But why limit yourself with one bank (the one you use) when dealerships often times use many. The chance of them beating the rate you have might be pretty good and as a result this will save you additional money.

Lastly, to go a little OT, to the people who thing cash is king in dealerships, honestly, you will have more bargaining power by financing with them as they will think they can make that money back on rates. The trick is to get outside financing so you have a minimum rate. Then say you will be financing with the dealership. After you negotiated the price, tell them the rate you have and see if they can beat it. If they can, then there's no reason not to go with them, but if not, then you at least are already set. But why limit yourself with one bank (the one you use) when dealerships often times use many. The chance of them beating the rate you have might be pretty good and as a result this will save you additional money.

X2

I sell cars...cash is not king...all deals are cash to us...the bank gives us the cash or you give us the cash...yes?

If they won't budge over the phone they may still budge in person...they may not. It depends on what they own the car for amongst about 1million other things...

Lastly, to go a little OT, to the people who thing cash is king in dealerships, honestly, you will have more bargaining power by financing with them as they will think they can make that money back on rates. The trick is to get outside financing so you have a minimum rate. Then say you will be financing with the dealership. After you negotiated the price, tell them the rate you have and see if they can beat it. If they can, then there's no reason not to go with them, but if not, then you at least are already set. But why limit yourself with one bank (the one you use) when dealerships often times use many. The chance of them beating the rate you have might be pretty good and as a result this will save you additional money.

Exactly the story of how I got my brand new 05MT LGT UnL for 25k 0.9%apr. The man speaks the autobuying gospel!

Guess the owner remove the emblems on the back of the car too.

Yeah, it looks debadged, tinted, and some sort of replacement front grill. The guy traded it in on a loaded up Tundra. Any sort of warranty on the clutch is a no go, since they already shot that down over the phone saying that nobody will cover a clutch even on new vehicles. I will put it through it's paces and if the clutch seems at all shaky then I'm going to walk away from it. I've driven on a twin disk Exedy for probably 70k miles now, so hopefully that doesn't mess my perception up too much.

The dealership does have the Carfax listed. Hopefully this works for direct linking...

http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=ANA_0&vin=4S3BL676356203532

actually, Subaru will cover a clutch once under warranty as long as it was not abused...all in all, the manufacturer's warranty for Subaru is pretty good as they'll cover some wear and tear items (abuse aside)....now this will all depend on the dealership of course....

Yeah, it looks debadged, tinted, and some sort of replacement front grill. The guy traded it in on a loaded up Tundra. Any sort of warranty on the clutch is a no go, since they already shot that down over the phone saying that nobody will cover a clutch even on new vehicles. I will put it through it's paces and if the clutch seems at all shaky then I'm going to walk away from it. I've driven on a twin disk Exedy for probably 70k miles now, so hopefully that doesn't mess my perception up too much.

 

The dealership does have the Carfax listed. Hopefully this works for direct linking...

 

http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=ANA_0&vin=4S3BL676356203532

engine2.jpg picture by kkoepp31 - Photobucketengine1.jpg picture by kkoepp31 - Photobucket

Here are a couple engine shots (clickable) that the dealer sent me. They aren't great, but that engine bay does look clean.

I would say all in all that it's a pretty good deal (coming from someone who actually sells Subarus). The only thing I would make sure about is that it does indeed have an accessport. If not, make them throw that in since they are advertising the accessport (assuming they are from the way you've stated things).

 

The one thing to point out is just because they aren't moving on price it doesn't mean you aren't getting a good deal. The good deal is the fact the car looks really good for its age (which usually doesn't exist) and still getting pricing within the lines of 3rd party resources.

 

I would caution you with regards to the mods though. See if you can find out more about the previous owner (like what type of person was he/she). This might give you a sense of how it was driven. With regards to the clutch, I would see about having a 3 month warranty thrown in in case it goes out. Most dealerships do something to this extent already...just make sure it's included with your paperwork. Depending on if it was rev happy the "chatter" could also be a flywheel. If you have a tactrix cable or know someone who does, you can run some logs to make sure everything is in check before you buy as well.

 

 

All in all though, I would say that from the sounds of it, the car seems good and the deal is not bad by any means.

 

Lastly, to go a little OT, to the people who thing cash is king in dealerships, honestly, you will have more bargaining power by financing with them as they will think they can make that money back on rates. The trick is to get outside financing so you have a minimum rate. Then say you will be financing with the dealership. After you negotiated the price, tell them the rate you have and see if they can beat it. If they can, then there's no reason not to go with them, but if not, then you at least are already set. But why limit yourself with one bank (the one you use) when dealerships often times use many. The chance of them beating the rate you have might be pretty good and as a result this will save you additional money.

Only a car salesman would put it like that:lol: car salesmen are all sleazy in my eyes until proven not sleazy. Sorry I have never been mentioned a better deal from the bank than I have a credit union and certainly neither are better than cash.... why pay interest when you have cash unless its a zero interest deal??? Its like you are telling people "we know its cheaper to pay cash but we want our part and the banks do to so finance:redface:

Cash is ALWAYS better period next best thing is to secure your own financing thru a credit union or your own bank. The instant they realize you need them to secure financing you have lost and stand to get screwed over more. And the "we beat your rate" can be BS my credit union gave me 4.9 APR on a new Auto ( mind you I didnt have any credit at the time but i have my account their for 4 year and my parents had account for 15+ years) they said and I quote "we can beat your rate but you have to get GAP and ext Warranty" the new rate was 3.9 those two additions added $3K to the price any my payment were higher.

I learned that it is most car salesmens job to shaft unsuspecting buyers and sorry if you are a salesman but that is typically what the public thinks of you

you're missing the point...

As car salesman, sleazy ones no less, we are trying to tell you that you can get a better deal from us pricewise...if you DON'T pay cash...

Yes you have the reasons right....if youdon't pay cash we can make up the difference getting paid by the bank...that is correct, however, you can refinance or pay it off w/out penalty.....then you get the best deal.

Don't automatically think we are all sleazy...most of us are just trying to earn a living and feed our families and our hobbies...

PS

I am one of the sleazy ones.

PS

I am one of the sleazy ones.

So redeem yourself here, and tell the guy what do LGTs like the one he's looking at go for at dealer auctions!

P.S. to OP, you check your PM, right?

"we can beat your rate but you have to get GAP and ext Warranty" the new rate was 3.9 those two additions added $3K to the price any my payment were higher.

I missed this part....I have heard of this happening...never at the dealership I work for...

Right now you can buy that car at dealership auction for $10800 with 72k in the midwest area...average for that kind of miles across the US is $10100

so...add in some dealer profit..unless that dealership is a non-profit....add in a fresh detailing which it sounds like they did, they probably changed the oil and checked the brakes....12500 seems pretty fair to me.

That first pic looks like it's missing some heatshielding around the turbo. It's been so long since I had a stock setup I'm not 100% sure what it looked like before.

That's not bad but it does mean the turbo has been off before. Maybe it's got a downpipe?

i have gone and test drove this car.... went back in two nights ago to talk and they told me someone has a deposit on it and is picking it up saturday. guess thats you.

as for the car. don't think boost gauges were a factory option. It appeared functional but i didn't pay much attention to it. Has the newest version cobb accessport i verified. Salesman told me he traded it for a 4-Runner. Car is nice. i like the color. has magnaflow exhaust and intake. they didn't know much else about it. It seems to run good and doesn't have any studder. Stage 2 maybe? not sure if it had a blow off valve or it was just that you could hear the turbo more because of the intake. I've never had a turbo car before only a supercharged corrado and a turbo diesel F-250. I was a little hesitant to get it because of the mods and not knowing the past history so i walked out only to return and find out it was "sold". Nice car!