Dash Cam Install (hardwired) DIY

This dash cam install was done on a 4th Gen Legacy, but it should be similar to other models, as well.

 

Time to Complete: A couple hours of research and buying parts, and 60 minutes of work time on the power harness and car.

Difficulty: Easy, except proper soldering may require some skill.

End Result: Incredibly boring video:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12KQrVtLNlc]2015 0311 092128 063 - YouTube[/ame]

 

Warning #1: Nearly all dash cams run on +5V. Failure to use a voltage regulator to convert the car's +12V power down to +5V will result in damage to your dash cam! Dash cams use +5V because USB provides 5V power and the camera's interface is USB. And because China = cheap.

 

Warning #2: You must use a fuse to prevent potential damage from electrical short circuits. Many years ago, my old car started on fire because I was too stupid to use a fuse properly. Don't be stupid.

 

Warning #3: Currently, most dash cams come from China or Korea. Be careful choosing a vendor because shipping can take weeks. Spytec on Amazon stocks dash cams in the US, so Amazon Prime 2-day got me my camera fast.

 

 

Parts to buy:

 

1. Dashcam. Check out http://www.dashcamtalk.com for reviews and select a popular camera. I went with the A118-C model for $80 from [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK8B47W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Spytec via Amazon.com.[/ame]
   
   
2. Voltage regulator. I bought an [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3P6QQG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]EDO Tech one from Amazon[/ame] for $11.
   
3. Fuse Tap (ATM). The mini-fuse tap allows you to add a new fused circuit from your fuse box. ATM is the mini size that you'll find under the steering wheel in the dash fusebox. I went with the Bussman ATM. Here [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425760509&sr=8-1&keywords=bussman+fuse+tap]it is on Amazon[/ame] for $8, but you can find these in auto parts stores.
   
4. Micro-SDHC Card (also called TF card). Dash Cam's don't include these, but this is the mass storage required for video recording. I went with the [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Class-Adapter-MB-MP32DA-AM/dp/B00IVPU786/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425760673&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+evo+32]Samsung Evo 32GB on Amazon[/ame] for $18.
   
5. Low amperage ATM fuses to add a fuse for your new dash cam. I bought a kit of ATM fuses from a local auto parts store for $5. 2A is good. Do not buy the "low profile ATM" fuses since Subaru isn't using this style.
   
6. USB Charge-only Cable. $5. Surprisingly, not all USB cables will work properly. Using the improper type will confuse the dash cam because it thinks it is plugged into a PC instead of a raw power source. Only 1 out of 3 USB cables I owned worked, and it's the same cable that didn't work on my AccessPort. I just bought this [ame=http://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1426035355&sr=8-5&keywords=USB+charge+only+cable]"Data block" adapter[/ame] from Amazon for $8, and it should allow any USB cable to work for powering up the dash cam.
   

 

Tools needed:

 

• Philips head screwdriver
  
• Flat head screwdriver
  
• Zip ties
  
• Soldering iron / electrical tape / heat shrink tubing (or some other method of joining wires i.e. butt crimps)
  
• Spade or ring terminal (for attaching to chassis ground)
  

 

 

Pictures of the goods in their boxes and then opened up:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204126&stc=1&d=1425761576http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204127&stc=1&d=1425761576

 

 

 

DIY Steps:

 

 

1) Add a ground terminal to the Regulator harness.

 

Before working inside the car, you can prepare the 5V Regulator wiring harness. Carefully use a scalpel or razor to pull back the outter sheath of the Regulator harness about 6" back from the power/gnd leads. Solder and heat shrink a spade or ring terminal to the black/ground wire. This will eventually hook into chassis ground under a bolt or screw.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204134&stc=1&d=1425761944

 

2) Attach the Fuse Tap power lead to the Regulator harness.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204135&stc=1&d=1425761944

 

 

3) Remove the A-pillar plastic cover by releasing the metal clip.

 

You can see the metal clip if you use your fingers to carefully peel back the top of the A-pillar cover. Shine a light in there and you you'll see it. Stick a flathead screwdriver straight down and push and the A-pillar will pop right out. You'll see wire bundles behind the A-pillar, and this is where the Dash Cam power wires will eventually go.

 

Protip: Once you place the screwdriver into the "pushing slot", you need to push the A-pillar cover tightly against the A-pillar to release it. Use one hand to push down on the screwdriver and the other hand to push the cover against the A-pillar. This will allow it to be released. Don't push down on the screwdriver while pulling the A-pillar cover off or it will get stuck.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204136&stc=1&d=1425762756

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204137&stc=1&d=1425762756

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204140&stc=1&d=1425763524

 

 

4) Remove the dash side cover.

 

Simply grab the top rear corner and pull outwards. It comes out pretty easy.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204141&stc=1&d=1425763721

 

 

5) Remove reading light console assembly.

 

Remove the plastic lens cover over the reading lights. Just use your fingernails and pull gently by the plastic near the light button. Next, remove the two Philips head screws that attach the entire plastic assembly to the roof of the car. The assembly will now easily pull down. Using your hands again, just pull down near the white plastic pop rivet to create some space between the headliner and the windshield. You'll need this to snake a wire to the Dash Cam, and to help route the Dash Cam power wires.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204142&stc=1&d=1425764124

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204143&stc=1&d=1425764124

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204144&stc=1&d=1425764124

 

 

6) Route the Regulator harness above the headliner.

 

Try to find a spot that creates as much cable slack as possible. You can't waste an inch here or the harness won't reach the fuse box. I had good luck stuffing the regulator box into a crevice and running the wire to the windshield and over to the A-pillar. Run the harness down the A-pillar and use zip ties to attach it nicely to the other harnesses.

 

Screw the ground ring terminal into the chassis ground. Any of the metal frame/bracketry you see in that area is chassis ground.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204146&stc=1&d=1425765004

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204147&stc=1&d=1425765004

 

 

7) Install the fuses into Fuse Tap and install into Fuse Box.

 

The orientation of the Fuse Tap is critical. If you put it backwards, the fuse will be bypassed and you will be risking an electrical fire. See the picture for how the Bussman ATM Add-a-circuit should be installed. Also, the ground ring terminal has a few places you can mount. My ring terminal was too small to fit the ideal hex head bolt, so I settled for a screw. Good enough.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204156&stc=1&d=1425765883

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204157&stc=1&d=1425765883

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204158&stc=1&d=1425765883

 

 

8) Hook up the Dash Cam to the power source (USB female-to-male connector on the Regulator harness). Put everything back together.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204167&stc=1&d=1425766650

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204168&stc=1&d=1425766650

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204169&stc=1&d=1425766650

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204170&stc=1&d=1425766650

Edited March 13, 2015 by Dispatch20

Where did you mount the cam in the end?

 

I guess behind the mirror?

Where did you mount the cam in the end?

 

I guess behind the mirror?

 

Right behind the mirror on the passenger side and it was mounted just high enough so I can see the status LEDs above it. I can't see the video on the screen, but that's OK. I like having minimal distraction and obstructions in my view of the road.

 

I finished edited the post to add the rest of the pictures after you posted your question.

Nice! I've been putting off hardwiring my dash cam for almost a year but I may go ahead and do it.

 

FYI, I have an OjoCam Pro Mini 0801 that I've been using since last April and I actually really like it. The price on Newegg is up to $120 but I paid significantly less than that (I don't remember the exact price). Beware, though, that a lot of eBay sellers are selling counterfeit versions of these.

 

The video is pretty good and includes all the standard dash cam goodies (1080p recording, audio recording optional, G sensor [so if you get into an accident it automatically flags and locks the video event so it can't be recorded over], GPS [the user interface for playback maps your rides along with your mph at the time], parking mode, etc.

 

The newest version of that cam is the 0806 model and has increased video quality (1296P vs 1080P), lane departure warning, front collision warning, etc. I may buy that and sell my 0801 for cheap.

 

Here's video from my 0801.

 

 

Make sure you choose 1080p. Pardon the music. It was from their free selection.

Edited March 7, 2015 by JayInVA

Good job. Couple observations:

 

1. It is better to buy flat USB cable - the seam between the windshield and the headliner is quite narrow. A thin flat cable = less deformation on the headliner edge.

 

2. You could get 12V ACC power from the mirror harness - the 3-pin white connector on the right - that would have saved you quite a bit of work

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204144&stc=1&d=1425764124

 

Plug-and-play solution:

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/members/22738-error-albums-dash-camera-installation-picture4449-03-cam-harness.jpg

Edited March 8, 2015 by error

Nice! I did exactly the same thing when hard wiring my A118. Only difference is I used the power outlet adapter and bought a spare socket to wire it to in the fuse box. Mounted the cam in the same spot too.

Good job. Couple observations:

 

1. It is better to buy flat USB cable - the seam between the windshield and the headliner is quite narrow. A thin flat cable = less deformation on the headliner edge.

 

2. You could get 12V ACC power from the mirror harness - the 3-pin white connector on the right - that would have saved you quite a bit of work

 

Plug-and-play solution:

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/members/22738-error-albums-dash-camera-installation-picture4449-03-cam-harness.jpg

 

Good tips!

 

I can't quite figure out how your harness works. Does your autodimming mirror & compass still work? It looks like you removed the harness for the mirror and replaced it with the merged one above that only powers up the Dash Cam. I don't see a splice that would run down to the mirror.

Good tips!

 

I can't quite figure out how your harness works. Does your autodimming mirror & compass still work? It looks like you removed the harness for the mirror and replaced it with the merged one above that only powers up the Dash Cam. I don't see a splice that would run down to the mirror.

My OB didn't have an auto-dimming mirror. I just bought a mirror harness and used it to power the voltage converter.

 

I am planning to add a HomeLink mirror once the tax fairy does her magic Will use the same wiring - I don't think mirror+dashcam are going to overload the circuit, plus there is a 5A fuse on the other end.

Excellent walk through! I'm very pleased that you purchased the A118. You'll enjoy it, it's a great camera.

Wow. That's a fine installation, but I gotta say I was able to install my dashcam and squeeze the cable under the trim pieces. It runs across the top to the passenger side, along the top of the door sill, down the door jamb, under the passenger seat and into the 12Vdc outlet in the centre console. I even put a 2way splitter in the console and power my GPS from it thus leaving the other 12Vdc for other accessories.

Wow. That's a fine installation, but I gotta say I was able to install my dashcam and squeeze the cable under the trim pieces. It runs across the top to the passenger side, along the top of the door sill, down the door jamb, under the passenger seat and into the 12Vdc outlet in the centre console. I even put a 2way splitter in the console and power my GPS from it thus leaving the other 12Vdc for other accessories.

 

That's a good idea, too! Many good ways to get this job done depending on the owners preference.

 

I think one thing that people may not appreciate is how fast and easy it is to remove the a-pillar trim and fuse panel trim. It's literally 30 seconds of effort. The most annoying part of the way I did it was making the custom wire harness.

Very nice write up. I hope it works well for you. Good luck with it. Would love to see some videos at some point.

Amazing write-up. You should make some more

Good job. Couple observations:

 

1. It is better to buy flat USB cable - the seam between the windshield and the headliner is quite narrow. A thin flat cable = less deformation on the headliner edge.

 

2. You could get 12V ACC power from the mirror harness - the 3-pin white connector on the right - that would have saved you quite a bit of work

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204144&stc=1&d=1425764124

 

Plug-and-play solution:

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/members/22738-error-albums-dash-camera-installation-picture4449-03-cam-harness.jpg

 

Where do I buy this harness? and more info on install?

Where do I buy this harness? and more info on install?

 

It looks like part number "H501SAG030" based on other Subaru and Saabaru dash cam installs. Should be a $10-$15 part. Some links:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/connector-auto-dimming-rear-view-mirror-230186.html

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69023

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2457647

 

In my case, both my cars had a homelink compass installed and I didn't want to splice the factory harness. I wanted it more reversible.

Edited March 23, 2015 by Dispatch20

Where do I buy this harness? and more info on install?

Harness part number H501SXA120 (for Canadian 2014 Outback w/o sunroof), ordered from subarupartswarehouse.com

Voltage converter came from ebay

My version of the install is on subaruoutback.org

Amazing write up. Thanks OP. Waiting for my exact parts and cam from amazon.

Good job. Couple observations:

 

1. It is better to buy flat USB cable - the seam between the windshield and the headliner is quite narrow. A thin flat cable = less deformation on the headliner edge.

 

2. You could get 12V ACC power from the mirror harness - the 3-pin white connector on the right - that would have saved you quite a bit of work

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204144&stc=1&d=1425764124

 

Plug-and-play solution:

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/members/22738-error-albums-dash-camera-installation-picture4449-03-cam-harness.jpg

 

 

Any idea what type of connector that is? If we can figure that out, it'd be easy enough to make a Y splitter so you can plug in both your mirror and dash cam.

ah screw that, I found something better. I was planning on doing a rear facing camera too, so I just bought this:

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51-Z94hJk4L._SL1050_.jpg

 

 

Now...tapping into that 3 pin connector. Is it + on the very left, and - in the middle?

I guess I don't understand the appeal of the tapping into the mirror harness. It's very easy to run a wire to the cabin fuse box. The 2 plastic cover panels (A-pillar, side of dash) aren't even held on with any hardware so it literally only takes 2 minutes. Taking the pictures of the process was far more work than actually taking off the panels. On the other hand, it I guess it would save a few $ not to buy another fuse and fuse tap.

I don't know, seems easier to tap into the mirror harness than running a wire to your fuse box. The less wire to run the better IMO. Also, i wont be removing it, so having 100% of the wiring invisible is nice.

Here's my take. Took less than 10 minutes from start to build and to finish.

 

http://imgur.com/llvFZoh.jpg

 

http://imgur.com/TkEPgAv.jpg

 

 

My point it's this it's way easier than I was thinking. This sub $100 mod is beyond worth it.

Thanks for sharing xVern. When I couldn't quickly find the pin out and cable harness descriptions I just gave up on that way. Your pics help!

So every vehicle is equipped with an auto-dimming mirror connector even if it didn't come from factory with that feature? I have an 05 LGT Limited Wagon, would this have that connector in there already and I'd just need the harness to get the power source? Knowing it's this easy it might be the push I need to go out and get a dashcam.

This was super easy thanks to your walkthrough. Much appreciated!