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Rotors/Pads Recommendation for Daily Driver?


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It's time to replacement all front and rear rotors and pads on my 05 GT Wagon. I did some research and read about some other people's recommendation. So far, I'm leaning towards a whole centric set

 

Front Rotors:http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-7/Centric-Premium-Rotor-05-dsh-09/Detail

Rear Rotors: http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-8/Centric-Premium-Rotor-06-dsh-07/Detail

Front Pads: http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-625/Centric-Premium-Brake-Pads/Detail

Rear Pads: http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-643/Centric-Premium-Brake-Pads/Detail

 

Surprise, surprise. These are the cheapest on infamous. I have the budget to go higher. But I don't need the upgrade in performance from the more expensive sets. If there are more durable options though, I would put some serious consideration into those. The one thing I did get from reading all these other posts is that I definitely don't want to skimp out on the brakes.

 

Anyway, please throw some recommendation my way. Any comment is much appreciated.

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I did an autozone duralast setup. I was pretty happy with them until I warped them in the mountains - a common problem I have. Nice thing is they took the set back and issued me a full refund.

 

I've now got slotted rotors from ABT out of soCal and hawk HPS. It's been a nice improvement.

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support your forum vendors, they support you. Saving a couple of bucks on another site after asking a vendor for help kinda sucks, you know?

 

centric premium blanks on hawk hps or stoptech street pads is pretty much the best solution.

 

Slotted/drilled is a waste of money for anything street driven. Even most autox/track driven cars will not benefit, either.

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support your forum vendors, they support you. Saving a couple of bucks on another site after asking a vendor for help kinda sucks, you know?

 

centric premium blanks on hawk hps or stoptech street pads is pretty much the best solution.

 

Slotted/drilled is a waste of money for anything street driven. Even most autox/track driven cars will not benefit, either.

 

Generally speaking you're right :)

 

The cost/improvement ratio was great for me. $20 for slotted rotors vs blanks per axle. Zinc coated so nothing sticks and no rust. So far this setup, along with my other brake improvements has been handling the heat of the mountains better then I expected.

 

While I'm not a hawk fan you cannot beat the price and lack of pad deposit profile to the HPS.

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Generally speaking you're right :)

 

The cost/improvement ratio was great for me. $20 for slotted rotors vs blanks per axle. Zinc coated so nothing sticks and no rust. So far this setup, along with my other brake improvements has been handling the heat of the mountains better then I expected.

 

While I'm not a hawk fan you cannot beat the price and lack of pad deposit profile to the HPS.

 

Well, actually, in the OP's case, it is right.

 

A change in braking habits will cure your pad deposits problem (they are not warping), as we have discussed in the past.

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After some more digging around, I found these on RockAuto.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3959073&cc=1430733

 

Am I missing something? This set is under the "High Performance" section but the whole set (4 rotors and 8 pads) for only $250? What's the difference between this set and this [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K286-Ceramic-One-Click/dp/B005FK3RVY/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A1IC4FESXAP6G1]Power Stop K286 Front/Rear Ceramic Brake Pad and Cross Drilled/Slotted Combo Rotor One-Click Brake Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame] ?

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After some more digging around, I found these on RockAuto.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3959073&cc=1430733

 

Am I missing something? This set is under the "High Performance" section but the whole set (4 rotors and 8 pads) for only $250? What's the difference between this set and this Power Stop K286 Front/Rear Ceramic Brake Pad and Cross Drilled/Slotted Combo Rotor One-Click Brake Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive ?

 

You're not missing much. There can be a wide pricing difference in rotors depending on the 'name' sold under.

 

A lot of the noobs spend $120/rotor for track cars when $40-50 blanks work just as well. Sometimes they're even made by the same people.

 

Just watch out for ultra low grade rotors. Sometimes they will crack in extreme heat. Seems to be the grade of steel used.

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Centric Cryo Rotors and HP+ pads with Ti shims, StopTech SS hoses, and I run them on the track and have never had even the slightest warpage. I did build my own front air ducts for the brakes and I believe these combined with the Wilwood EXP600 fluid has completely eliminated any fade.

 

Support the vendors on here as boxkita says. If you have a problem with RockAuto parts, you're on your own. If you have a problem with Amazon.com parts, you're on your own. If you have a problem with IP&T or AZP Installs or Underdog or Moddiction or ANY of the vendors that have chosen to be part of our community by paying to have their vendor status, they will be there to help you with advice and if there are part failures, they will step up to the plate to take care of you.

 

Saving a couple of bucks on parts like brakes by buying them from an outside source that doesn't give a shit whether or not you ever buy another part from them is just not good business.

 

Use your head for more than an empty hat rack.

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Centric Cryo Rotors and HP+ pads with Ti shims, StopTech SS hoses, and I run them on the track and have never had even the slightest warpage. I did build my own front air ducts for the brakes and I believe these combined with the Wilwood EXP600 fluid has completely eliminated any fade.

 

Support the vendors on here as boxkita says. If you have a problem with RockAuto parts, you're on your own. If you have a problem with Amazon.com parts, you're on your own. If you have a problem with IP&T or AZP Installs or Underdog or Moddiction or ANY of the vendors that have chosen to be part of our community by paying to have their vendor status, they will be there to help you with advice and if there are part failures, they will step up to the plate to take care of you.

 

Saving a couple of bucks on parts like brakes by buying them from an outside source that doesn't give a shit whether or not you ever buy another part from them is just not good business.

 

Use your head for more than an empty hat rack.

 

Jeez, what is your problem? Can't i even window shop around without getting a third degree? I never once said I wasn't going to buy from infamous. All I wanted, was for people to tell me what the good and bad are on different rotors and pads. If I'm spending my money to buy something, I want to make sure I understand what I'm paying for. You really shouldn't be jumping the gate here and assume I won't buy from a vendor just because I'm shopping around. Can you honestly say that the each vendor on this forum has ALL the viable options for EVERY type of legacy owner out there? It's not a bad thing to want to look around, and feel satisfied with my eventual purchase, knowing that I put in the research.

 

And what's with this passive aggressive "use your head for more than an empty hat rack"? In case you didn't know, you are actually doing your own vendors a disservice by putting on all this pressure and guilt trip. Vendors are still businesses. They chose a particular business model where they don't compete purely on price, instead they offer better service and participate in customer communities. That doesn't mean that businesses who choose to compete more on price, like amazon or rock auto, are evil and not worth any consideration. Different consumers have different needs, different priorities, and different budgets. And it is my goddamn choice whom I buy it from. I didn't join this site to limit my options and to have someone call my head an empty hat rack.

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Centric Premium rotors (front only), Stop Tech pads all around, TechnaFit stainless steel lines and ATE blue from Infamous. Marked improvement over stock for my daily driver at a reasonable price.
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We do seem to live in a walmart economy, yet buy $6 coffees.

 

:lol: I run into ppl all the time that tell me they can't afford to go racing. $6/coffee * 30 days * 12 months = $2160. That's half my budget for this year. If average track day is 225 (PNW pricing), that's 9 days. That would be one heck of season in any one's book.

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Jeez, what is your problem? Can't i even window shop around without getting a third degree? I never once said I wasn't going to buy from infamous. All I wanted, was for people to tell me what the good and bad are on different rotors and pads. If I'm spending my money to buy something, I want to make sure I understand what I'm paying for. You really shouldn't be jumping the gate here and assume I won't buy from a vendor just because I'm shopping around. Can you honestly say that the each vendor on this forum has ALL the viable options for EVERY type of legacy owner out there? It's not a bad thing to want to look around, and feel satisfied with my eventual purchase, knowing that I put in the research.

 

And what's with this passive aggressive "use your head for more than an empty hat rack"? In case you didn't know, you are actually doing your own vendors a disservice by putting on all this pressure and guilt trip. Vendors are still businesses. They chose a particular business model where they don't compete purely on price, instead they offer better service and participate in customer communities. That doesn't mean that businesses who choose to compete more on price, like amazon or rock auto, are evil and not worth any consideration. Different consumers have different needs, different priorities, and different budgets. And it is my goddamn choice whom I buy it from. I didn't join this site to limit my options and to have someone call my head an empty hat rack.

 

LMAO...exactly the response I expected. Have a great day. :)

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:lol: I run into ppl all the time that tell me they can't afford to go racing. $6/coffee * 30 days * 12 months = $2160. That's half my budget for this year. If average track day is 225 (PNW pricing), that's 9 days. That would be one heck of season in any one's book.

 

My big gripe about people cheaping out on brakes is that, next to good tires, they're the most important safety feature on the vehicle. They say they don't track the car, so don't need the stopping power. What do they say when that extra 20 feet of stopping distance is the difference between a safe stop and two totaled vehicles and possible injuries?

 

Do I need race car stopping power all the time? No, of course not. But, I prefer to have it there for the times that I do. ;-)

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