Legacy 2.5GT Auto vs Legacy 3.0R Auto

Hi Peeps,

There has been an old question of which one performs better. Owning a 2008 Legacy 3.0R Auto, I got a chance to drive a 2005 Legacy 2.5GT Auto. I got to say that the 3.0R performed better. Both cars were stock.

The reason for the 3.0R performing better was because of the SI Drive, Larger disk breaks and stiffer bilstien struts.

Most people would say turbo lag is one the indicators that they would take 3.0R over the 2.5GT stock for stock.

It is true that the 2005 legacy 2.5GT didn't have SI drive but was still fun to drive.

Any thoughts?

There's no way my 2016 Outback 3.6R is anywhere near as fast as my 2005 GT Wagon. Even stock the GT was faster.

The SI setting doesn't do much unless the Tuner has made it give you different boost levels.

There's so many reasons the GT's are better cars, many more options for performance parts.

I test drove a GT wagon with a 5eat before I bought the wagon. I didn't like the way the car wasn't as responsive to throttle input as the manual. But then I've been driving a stick car since I learned how to drive in 1970.

The SI setting doesn't do much unless the Tuner has made it give you different boost levels.

Let me elucidate on that a bit more: SI-drive does not change the peak performance of the car (i.e. how much power it has when you're at WOT) except for in I mode, where it's lowered. At S and S#, pushing the throttle to the floor will be exactly the same. The tuner can indirectly change boost levels with SI drive, but essentially all they're doing is changing the DBW throttle mapping, not the boost tables.

Let me elucidate on that a bit more: SI-drive does not change the peak performance of the car (i.e. how much power it has when you're at WOT) except for in I mode, where it's lowered. At S and S#, pushing the throttle to the floor will be exactly the same. The tuner can indirectly change boost levels with SI drive, but essentially all they're doing is changing the DBW throttle mapping, not the boost tables.

Yes, i know that I just didn't feel like explaining all of it.

Thanks for doing that.

The brakes on the GT and 3.0R are the same. SI drive is a gimmick. The auto GT should be faster than the 3.0R. The 3.0R is more reliable and much less of a maintenance headache than the GT. Bilsteins are nice to have (stock on all 06+Spec B and 3.0R models) but the aftermarket has much better options available for all 4th gens.

Having owned both, I can speak a little on them.

The 3.0R is faster off the line due to low end torque. Up top the GT may be a little faster, but not by much. Stock for stock they are about the same. Rolling start, the GT has an edge IMHO.

Reliability is about the same. The 3.0R is not without problems.

The Bilsteins really punish the suspension. My wife hates riding in my 3.0R because it is too harsh. It's the factory Bilstein setup. I had to replace my entire front end suspension at about 70K miles in my 3.0R. Factory Bilsteins are $$$. The HDs are said to ride rougher so I opted with the OEM. My GT lasted over 90K when I upgraded and was still going strong and rode smooth as can be.

The coolant pipes in the 3.0R need to be replaced when driving in a Midwest climate. After seeing a few winters, they begin to bubble and rust through and leak. Only place you can get them is the dealer and replacement requires lifting the engine to get them out. A real PITA.

Exhaust on the 3.0R has been a nightmare. I've got 125K on mine and have replaced it twice. The only place you can get it from is $OA and it is $$$. There are very few aftermarket, if any. One of my cats has rattled for a couple of years now. Guess the one place where you can only get direct replacements from? Yup, $OA.

3.0Rs are more susceptible to head gasket issues than the 2.5GT. I'm praying I don't have to replace mine before i trade it in. That's a $1K-3K adventure.

On the GT, the DP runs right near the passenger CV boot causing a failure at around 100K miles due to heat. On the 3.0R, there is heat on both front inside boots because of how the header runs off of each head requiring both front axles to be replaced at 100K miles.

Really the only big difference between the 3.0R and GT is the turbo and reliability is arguable. I pulled mine on my GT at 100K and it was fine where as others can get much less.

On the GT, the DP runs right near the passenger CV boot causing a failure at around 100K miles due to heat.

Mine failed at around 45k miles.

Driver's side failed at around 55k.