$8.54 fix for headlight adjusters

Well, $8.54 is what the parts cost me by paying too much at Lowes.

 

After my son's accident we fixed our 99 OB when most would probably have totaled the poor thing. (Pics here.) During my first night time test drive the first thing I noticed was that the headlights were aimed into the ground. The second thing I noticed were the totally non functional adjusters. But with his 19 year old eyes my son was content the way the headlights worked. But now he's in Air Force basic training and I'm driving the OB instead of my thirsty Chevy Avalanche, and I need properly aimed headlights.

 

Now I can once again adjust the aiming of my headlights, and I can do it without tools.

 

In case you wonder, after reading all this, why I didn't just purchase a knob with setscrews, there are two reasons. The first reason is that most knobs, except those I've seen on machine tools, have tiny, little setscrews. I wanted big and burly setscrews, and machine tool knobs are expensive. The second reason is that the knobs I've seen readily available are for 1/4 diameter inch shafts, and the end of the headlight adjuster is much closer to having a 3/16 diameter.

 

Here's what I needed to buy to fix all four adjusters:

 

1. Four 5/16-18 x 7/8 inch long plated steel coupling nuts. (You could easily go as long a 1 inch, but any longer than that you might run into clearance issues on the two adjusters nearest the radiator.)

2. Four 5/16-18 x 5/16 inch long cup point setscrews. (3/8 long would be better.)

 

I went with inch sized hardware because I was able to find it easily. You can substitute metric hardware, but there's no advantage.

 

Tools needed:

1. Drill press.

2. 1/16 to 3/32 sharp drill bit. Size is not critical.

3. 3/16 drill bit.

4. Small drill press vice to hold the coupling nuts while drilling them.

5. Center punch.

6. Hammer.

7. Allen wrench to fit the set screws.

 

Instructions: (Disclaimer: I'll assume knowledge of safe use of a drill press.)

 

Step 1: Knock off all traces of the original plastic nut like things on the ends of all four adjusting screws.

 

Step 2: Wire brush off as much rust from the threaded section of the adjusting screws as you can.

 

Step 3: On one of the flat sides of the coupling nuts use the center punch to dimple the coupling nut as close to the exact center as you can get it.

 

Step 4: Place the coupling nut in the drill press vice with the dimple facing up.

 

Step 5: Using the smaller drill bit drill halfway through the coupling nut.

 

Step 6: Using the 3/6 inch drill drill all of the way through the coupling nut. Deburr as necessary.

 

The picture below shows the coupling nut and how it has a 3/16 inch hole drilled through. It also shows the setscrew. You'll install the setscrew from either end of the coupling nut, but don't screw it in far enough to block the hole.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/steven1955/1999%20Subaru%20Accident/NeededParts_zps9efbaf53.jpg

 

Step 7: Slide the coupling nut over the end of the adjuster screws and tighten the setscrew. The picture below shows the installation.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/steven1955/1999%20Subaru%20Accident/Installation_zps65e9c022.jpg

 

The next two pictures show the headlights installed with the "repaired" adjusters visible and accessible.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/steven1955/1999%20Subaru%20Accident/DriversSide_zps4fc2a248.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/steven1955/1999%20Subaru%20Accident/PassengerSide_zps5f8bd3dc.jpg

 

I removed the headlights to make wire brushing, loosening up, and lubrication of the adjusters easier. I used PB Blaster to do the initial loosening and Bel-Ray waterproof grease lubricate the adjuster threads. If your adjusters are still OK (non rusty and easy to turn) and only the plastic nut like things are bad you could easily install these with the headlights still in the car.

Pretty ingenious.. would you consider selling a couple of these all made up? I trashed the plastic one on the passenger side and wouldn't mind paying for the convenience.

I'd have to see if there's any interest than from other than just you, Scruffy. I'd want to do a minimum of 20 if I were to make more, but I'd hate to make 20 and only sell two.

 

Some folks, at least those few of us that are unhappy using Vice Grips to aim their headlights, might wonder why I didn't just use a setscrew type (versus a one or two piece split type) shaft locking collar. Well, the setscrew locking collars with a 3/16 bore only use an 8-32 setscrew. That's strong enough if the adjusters stayed lubed and loose, but if they rust again I don't think an 8-32 setscrew will be strong enough. Plus the locking collars have a relatively small 1/2 inch outside diameter with a smooth surface. You can put a lot of torque on the "Tee" shape knob you get with the coupling nut approach I took. That with the large 5/16-18 setscrew means it will accept a lot of torque. Take that, rusty adjusters.

Id buy some

I just checked on mcmaster carr and you can make these in stainless for about $7 plus shipping. I might make myself a set.

I don't see the point in making these in stainless steel when the headlight adjusters are carbon steel, but they would be prettier. Just remember that the stainless will be more of a pain to drill, and the final product will be slightly weaker if the coupling nuts are exactly the same, which they aren't. In McMaster's on line catalog of 5/16-18 coupling nuts both the 18-8 and 316 stainless parts have a 1/2 hex and are 1 inch long, where the grade 2 steel parts have a 7/16 hex and are 7/8 inch long.

 

If you use a stainless setscrew in a stainless coupling nut there is some slight chance of the threads galling if you go gorilla when tightening the setscrew.

 

The biggest issue with stainless would be the use of a stainless setscrew. The cup point (in the original post I said hollow point) if stainless would be softer and have less of a bite into the adjuster screw. The second biggest issue is the weak allen hex. I've had many stainless setscrews split at the allen hex drive end.

 

I used Lowes as my supplier because they were local and supplied instant gratification. I would use Mcmaster if I were to make more in larger quantities. It's that these were so easy to make that I would think most of the wrenching types here would just make their own. But maybe not everyone has access to a drill press.