N.A.S. Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 http://legacygt.com/forums/%3Ca%20href=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/705/engine1b.jpg/%20target=_blank%3E%5Bimg%5Dhttp://img705.imageshack.us/img705/4215/engine1b.jpgMy engine is almost ready to come out. Everything was going good until I ran into a problem trying to figure out how to remove the "release fork shaft". I started following the instructions from the manual and searched forums all i could find was sti trans and I'm still lost. 27) Separate the clutch release fork from the release bearing. (1) Remove the clutch operating cylinder from the transmission. (2) Remove the plug using a 10 mm hexagon wrench. (3) Screw-in the 6 mm dia. bolt into the release fork shaft to remove. (4) Raise the release fork, unlock the release bearing tab, then remove the release fork. The pic in the s.manual doesnt match my car (matches a sti tranny) when it comes to this exact problem for some reason. The 10mm hex went in 1 of the holes but didnt turn or do anything. neither did the 6mm tool i used either. I'm thinking its 1 of the holes with a bolt covering it but before I go further I'd like a little help. Plz and TYIA http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/705/engine1b.jpg/http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/4215/engine1b.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/705/engine1b.jpg/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 i jsut had a look at the manual the 05's don't have pull clutches, you should just be able to pull the engine ahead Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted August 29, 2011 I Donated Share Posted August 29, 2011 Yeah, I didn't do any of that crap during my engine swap. I just separated the engine from the transmission and that was it. It was tough to do so because the alignment pins were frozen in, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.A.S. Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 thank you. any good advice out there on how to get the tranny bolts off. I have only 2 bolts left on the passesnger side before my engine comes out and I swear it just had to be the hardest 2. The dp is getting in the way of me getting the last 2 bolts and its a mofo trying to take the dp off. I broke a swivel trying to get them off. lol i need a smoke break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 yea the two nuts that go on the studs are a pita .. i never put them back on. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 1, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 1, 2011 The dp is getting in the way of me getting the last 2 bolts and its a mofo trying to take the dp off. I broke a swivel trying to get them off. Uh, you do know you need to take the downpipe off anyway to remove the engine, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.A.S. Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 yeah, 1 busted hand later, i managed to get the dp off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Did you remove the 2 bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder on ? That should be all you need to do for the clutch fork. Use pry bars to fit in between the block and tranny and pry the engine off the tranny pins. Sears has a nice set of pry bars. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 1, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 1, 2011 Did you remove the 2 bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder on ? That should be all you need to do for the clutch fork. I did not do that on either of the Subaru engine swaps I have done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I did not do that on either of the Subaru engine swaps I have done. I understand there is a adaptor plate (?) that the slave cylinder sits on. So I guess it must be possible to remove the tranny bolts and starter and split the engine from the adaptor plate ? When I had the tranny out I didn't spend a lot of time looking around under there. I'll have a look through the vacation pic's more. I see page 1736 is where the directions are. OK I don't see where it say's to remove the slave cylinder, but IMO it's one lees thing to worry about lining up in the install. It's only 2, 12mm socket bolts and it lifts out of the way. OP make sure the clutch fork is on the pivot ball before you stick the engine in and bolt the tranny up. Trust me on that one. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 1, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 1, 2011 I understand there is a adaptor plate (?) that the slave cylinder sits on. So I guess it must be possible to remove the tranny bolts and starter and split the engine from the adaptor plate ? When I had the tranny out I didn't spend a lot of time looking around under there. I'll have a look through the vacation pic's more. I see page 1736 is where the directions are. OK I don't see where it say's to remove the slave cylinder, but IMO it's one lees thing to worry about lining up in the install. It's only 2, 12mm socket bolts and it lifts out of the way. OP make sure the clutch fork is on the pivot ball before you stick the engine in and bolt the tranny up. Trust me on that one. You don't have to do any lining up of the slave cylinder during the install. If the slave cylinder is not lined up properly, then neither is the release bearing fork, and you'd have much bigger problems in that situation. Also, th save cylinder is bolted straight to the bellhousing IIRC -- not an adapter plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 So that's why you don't have to unbolt it. That makes sense. When I had the tranny off I did notice a collar like housing around the clutch and flywheel, I didn't have much light down there, remember I'm 56y/o. I guess Subaru just does that on the rear halfs of the block. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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