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5MT Transmission Failure(s)


Roldan

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quick question.

 

I found a sweet deal on an 07 wrx transmission with only 30k on it.

 

my synchros are messing up in 4th in 5th on my current tranny in the 05lgt.

 

now, can i swap that tranny (07 wrx) into my lgt?

I've searched and searched..

 

75 pages in the tranny section and no key words point me in the right direction.

 

Did you try some extra-s first?

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There's hardly any 5mt trans failures reported. If your car is and was always stock, I'd have pretty good faith that the trans itself is fine. It'll hold stg 2 power no problem as long as you can drive.

 

Now if you bang shift gears all the time...well that's a different story.

 

Thanks. I've been driving my 5-speed 2.5 RS for about 8 years (got it a couple months before turning 17), and, while I do drive kind of fast, I don't launch/stoplight race. I like feeling the power once I'm in gear, but I don't rush my shifts...I get more satisfaction out of a smooth shift than I do a fast one.

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I'm likely picking up an 05 LGT unlimited this weekend. Single owner, 91k miles, had all the major dealer services, including the 90k mile service with new turbo. The seller said his wife mostly drives the car (true or not, who knows) so it hopefully hasn't been beaten on.

 

It's all stock, and I plan on stage 2 power. UP/Catted DP, possibly upgraded TMIC, and probably have the tuning done by IAG Performance. Clutch hasn't been done yet, so it would probably be coming due for replacement soon anyway.

 

Is there any way to test 5th gear? It sounds like these are all sudden failures without any warning noises, so I'm guessing the answer's no.

 

When/if 5th gear does go, is it safe to limp home or to the shop in 1st-4th? Or should one just pull over and get towed?

 

Edit - And before anybody makes jokes about "to ensure max transmission life, don't drive your car," I'm aware that buying a high mileage turbocharged Subaru can open a can of worms, but I've really taken a liking to these cars (especially after 8 years of driving my underpowered 2.5RS), and am willing to pay to play.

 

 

Don't worry about the transmission. If it's had at least one oil change in its life, it should be fine.

 

The only thing the 5MT is slightly notorious for is the center differential transfer drive and driven bearings wearing. You can repair it with the transmission in the car and less than $200 in parts (including Subaru RTV and fluid). I did it in a weekend (RTV cure time). and have been enjoying a quiet car for the past 10k or so miles. I had about 25-30k on the failing bearings before I learned that the noise actually wasn't normal (even IAG thought it was a normal turbo noise).

 

I recommend getting an open source tune via cryo. Great $150 spent (plus $15 eBay vag-com cable).

 

TurboXS downpipe is in my plans for this spring (with one of the new EPA-certified high flow cats (I have a CNT now - it works ok, but it is stinky nonetheless).

 

Keep your stock IC, or buy my used IPR (no fitment issues) :)

 

Expect to pay around $1300 or so in parts alone for a clutch install.

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  • 5 months later...

Found out my wagon has a broken main shaft. You can follow my thread below, 3rd gear issue.

 

How's the old and new

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN5291_zpsb1f144a1.jpg

 

 

here's the other end still in the case.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN5295_zps3025c9b3.jpg

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 months later...

Case flex :lol:

 

Some people will believe anything.

Edited by BAC5.2
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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So there's no case flex in a 5 speed? Heres another post claiming the weakness in the transmission case. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/131018-wrx-stock-tranny-4.html. and another http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f69/transmission-faq-read-if-you-thinking-upgrading-13846/ I've seen 6 speeds with broken cases. This would be a great mythbusters episode, LOL. Edited by USLiberty
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Correct. The case does not flex sufficiently to cause failure. The ONLY research showing this might happen, was done many years ago with extremely unrealistic boundary conditions (both shafts locked together, no engine bolted to the bell housing, and in steady-state loading). Even then, the case deflection was marginal and not nearly sufficient to cause the shafts to separate. If you look at the basic design of the gearbox, and have any understanding of engineering, you would see the lack of logic in the case flex claims.

 

But, people are eager for a snake-oil charm and are willing to believe whatever they will to justify the money spent, just like every other brace people think they absolutely need. You spend the money, know "this thing is gonna blow and is only held together by these plates", and drive more carefully as result.

 

PayPal me half the money, and I'll send you a PM once a month for the next year reminding you your trans isn't bulletproof and that you should drive accordingly.

 

I really like the guys at Moore, and they build some of the best parts I've seen in the industry. These plates are no exception. They are likely built exceptionally well. But if you think they are going to bulletproof your trans, you are fooling yourself.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I never claimed it was bullet proof or I was trying to bulletproof it. I haven't seen proof either way but upon further research, I'll take Andrewtech's experience and opinion. I brought this up as "they claim this", not "I claim this" and seeing Moore's high quality work, I figured they wouldn't sell snake oil. Bringing discussion to it reinforces my initial plan is to have a spare motor/trans in the garage.
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I'm guessing if Moore is good they can probably share their FEA analysis on the 5MT case and we can see what is really happening under load; how much flex and what it affects.

 

That video of a SUV on a dyno doesnt really get to the details.

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Case flex :lol:

Some people will believe anything.

I've heard it called bolt flex... as in those holding the case together.

 

Either way, it doesn't much matter to me what the cause of the problem was. My 5MT input bearing was toast after less than 45,000 miles.

Tits mcgee
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  • 1 month later...

I'll be posting photos and a video once I get to the lump I gutted from my LGT... Right now I'm in the middle of a timing belt/water pump job on it.

 

I'm looking forward to inspecting all of the broken stuff. Once I've rebuilt it I may sell it or just keep it for when the replacement transmission eats its guts. Depends on how much money I get offered for it.

 

Here's a teaser... It went so bad that the driveshaft yoke was all chewed up..

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  • 1 month later...

So I have been having a hard time getting into gear for the past couple months. It showed up when the temps dropped below 45 degrees. I just assumed it was my fluid being thick. I can't get into any gear when I first turn the car on. But I can when I turn the car off. So i've been putting it into reverse, turn the car on, back out of parking spot, turn car off, shift to first, turn car on and drive away. This problem would go away after a 100 yards of driving.

 

So I finally changed my transmission fluid to Subaru Extra-s. Transmission shifts a bit better, but i'm still having the same problem getting into gear. The downside, this is what I found when I pulled my plug... My fluid was also quite glittery which is never good. The car is still shifting fairly smoothly, just hard to get into gear when the car is cold. It doesn't make any strange noises and it feels pretty good driving around. Any idea what those chunks could be off of?

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/833/n4uc.jpg

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/543/qbqu.jpg

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Looks like part of a gear tooth and a chunk of the big center diff retaining ring thing. When I took the back plate off my trans the center diff retaining ring clip thing was wedged in at an odd angle and was missing about 2 inches of material....

 

I was thinking it was gear tooth at first, but its really skinny. It still could be. I'm still torn on whether or not I should have the tranny pulled to find the problem, or just proceed as is and pull it if the problem worsens, or other issues pop up. Its baffling to see chunks that big come out and not have any normal condition driving issues.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1600x1200q90/32/0fgk.jpg

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Well regardless the skinny thing looks like the center diff locking ring that holds its guts in.

 

Part # 20 in this diagram...

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/3331/centerdifftz4.jpg

 

The chunk of larger material looks like part of the pinion gear... if you look at the photo below, there's really not much else it resembles.

 

Note the location of the drain plug hole below the number 19 on the ring gear... also note the separation of the components..

 

that hunk of locking ring had to find its way past all of the gears and through that divider to end up in your drained fluid. Anything could have happened.

 

if you baby it, you might get months or years out of it... if you don't... maybe weeks.

 

http://www.subaru4you.co.uk/images/parts/dogbox.jpg

Edited by evil03mustang
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I'd start looking for a replacement transmission.

 

That's just me though... I saw chunks and started shopping immediately. Ended up with Pitcrew's Spec B box.

 

I'm going to be rebuilding the one I pulled out because the one I'm running right now won't live forever. The center diff bearings are guaranteed to fail at some point.

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The center diff bearings are guaranteed to fail at some point.

You can say that about any part of the car.

 

 

It's a gear tooth. And your clutch is probably borked which is what is causing the shifting problems.

 

 

Stop driving the car..... unless you don't care.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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You can say that about any part of the car.

 

 

It's a gear tooth. And your clutch is probably borked which is what is causing the shifting problems.

 

 

Stop driving the car..... unless you don't care.

 

Are you referring to me about the clutch? What could be wrong with it? I do have a really stiff pedal, but I had the car tuned a month ago and my tuner didn't bat an eye about it except it being stiff (ACT heavy duty clutch with 15k on it).

 

This problem existed when I had it tuned and they didn't see/hear any issues (This was before I changed trans fluid and saw the tooth) If there was a clutch issue, why would it only happen when the engine is run for the first minute after starting? Wouldn't I be seeing issues all the time?

 

I understand driving with a broken tooth isn't the best thing in the world to do. I just know its weaker now. I'm not trying to disagree with you, just trying to learn how different things in the tranny/clutch could interact with each other if issues develop.

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You can say that about any part of the car.

 

 

It's a gear tooth. And your clutch is probably borked which is what is causing the shifting problems.

 

 

Stop driving the car..... unless you don't care.

 

AKA drive gently and shop for replacement parts because you're going to need them.

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Yeah I figured that part. Is it possible to have my tranny rebuilt for a reasonable cost or is sourcing a used one a better choice? I know new parts can get stupid expensive depending on what's wrong. Whatever I do I have to have a shop perform the work, I just don't have the resources to handle it myself. Hell maybe now's the time for a 6 speed Edited by adrenalinecrisis
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