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What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?


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Me and TSwaggon installed Zeitronix ZT-3 Widebands in the 1st Gens today. The wife's new BRZ got a detail as well.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/10/ad44a509c52d171d7eb936466ef6ac13.jpg

 

Why did you guys go with the Zeitronix as opposed to an AEM? Just curious.

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Why did you guys go with the Zeitronix as opposed to an AEM? Just curious.

 

Several reasons... 1) small company that makes a great product. I have read nothing but positives. With the AEM, I have actually run across a few horror stories... 2) also really really liked the hacker/tweaker display option. I didn't want another whole 52mm gauge taking up space. The ultimate install will be harder, but it will be totally custom and look integrated into the dashboard...3) it's just a super simple unit at a great price.

 

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/HackerTweaker/Hacker_Tweaker.shtml

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If I hadn't already bought an AEM uego I might have gone with the Zeitronix. The hacker display is pretty slick.

 

I had scoped this out a while back for the GT. I just didn't like the way all the other Wideband gauges look with their digital readouts and little circular multi-color LED bars circling the gauge face. They look messy to me. I tend to spend hours and hours on the internet doing research before I buy anything. It's a sickness really. :redface:

 

And I like clean installs too. When installing this we used the factory harness connector to provide power and ground for the unit and also send the narrow band signal back to the ECU. We pulled the stock O2 sensor and cut the connector off of it, soldered it up to the harness we made running into the cabin, and plugged it in. I like to avoid cutting or tapping into the factory harness if possible.

Edited by GTEASER
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Cleaned my stock BPV last night and response has improved. Since I put the intake on and now have the wideband, I was hearing and noticing that it was staying open at partial light throttle when it shouldn't. Building boost quicker and more consistently now, but still not perfect.

 

95% of the time AFR's are perfect at cruise and WOT with 10psi. The other 5% of the time, specifically after warm starts, the AFR's will gradually creep up from 14.7 to 18-ish at idle and the car will idle like shit. A couple blips of the throttle usually fixes it, if that doesn't, driving for few minutes does. Any suggestions?

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There's a drill mod for the stock BPV, might try that.

 

Clean your TB lately? IACV?

 

Getting it good and warm and sucking some distilled water through a vac-line carefully can help general carbon issues. I'll run a bit of methanol (gas-line dryer) alt with distilled water.

All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light...
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Trying to hunt down a super clean 1stgen wagon. Mileage is of no concern, I think I want to swap everything out of my SS into and make it a super clean daily. So if anyone has some leads here out west I might consider traveling trying to stay sub2000 is possible.

I shouldn't have any compatibility issues right?

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Trying to hunt down a super clean 1stgen wagon. Mileage is of no concern, I think I want to swap everything out of my SS into and make it a super clean daily. So if anyone has some leads here out west I might consider traveling trying to stay sub2000 is possible.

I shouldn't have any compatibility issues right?

 

You're in Boise right? Then check out ksl.com (if you haven't already) and click on the cars tab. There are always a ton of subarus to look at around SLC.

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Try high altitude Arizona, LOL. I get sunburns in half the time as when I lived in Huntington Beach. Our legal law is lenient because those poor souls that have to live in the hell known as Phoenix. Our laws states front side windows 33% (light that passes through) then the back side and rear windows can have any amount of darkness. I have 25% all around and sometimes roll windows down to manuever a night-time reverse. Good thing is, I don't get sunburns of the left arm on long roadtrips.
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Ugh, I'm getting nervous. I dropped my 205 heads off at a shop a couple months ago to be chamber matched to the 22T bore and they have been stringing me along. Now I haven't heard back from them for ten days. No answering their phone, no answering texts.

 

I finished assembling my shortblock almost two weeks ago so I really need those heads. I'm not sure what to do at this point. I might have to pay them a visit with my scary looking friend. :(

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Trying to hunt down a super clean 1stgen wagon. Mileage is of no concern, I think I want to swap everything out of my SS into and make it a super clean daily. So if anyone has some leads here out west I might consider traveling trying to stay sub2000 is possible.

I shouldn't have any compatibility issues right?

 

...looks like a found a straight silver wagon with a toasted engine. 450$ might be making the move to make this happen sooner

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...looks like a found a straight silver wagon with a toasted engine. 450$ might be making the move to make this happen sooner

 

Do it! I got my L and now I really save on car insurance. Haha... Stickin it to the man. Plus, it weighed considerably less(2950lbs wet) without a sunroof, scoop, wing and ABS. I got it for 400 but it ended up needing a ton of bodywork and had 255k miles on it.

After the motor/trans were out, I just unbolted the tophats, steering shaft and subframe, it dropped right out. I used two jacks and a skateboard to swap each subframe as a single piece, don't even have to lose the alignment. also have to swap the gastank and its components. I also swapped all the windows and all parts, interior, trim and anything else with moving parts. It was one hell of a task, but its rewarding knowing you basically frame-off restored your car.

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I have a 1992dodge stealth I plan on selling this thurs. If the person buys then I'll prob go forward with this. Although the steering rack in mine is leaking and I need a lot of new bushings it gives me the excise to go all new underneath for suspension bits.
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