Robb Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Recently pulled my motor and after inspecting the clutch, I've decided to replace it as the disk material appears to be tearing from the backing. The pressure plate appears to still be in decent condition, and the clutch has minimal wear - other than what is mentioned above. Can anyone recommend a good drop in disk? The car has had a SMF conversion already. I thought about just sticking with OEM clutch, but have had trouble actually finding an OEM disk by itself. Car will be pretty much stock minus bolt on's, and it may see an Access Port during it's lifetime, but nothing really harsher than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 If you are just replacing the disk, then you'll need to stay with the SMF disk. If you're not going above stage 2, then you'll be fine with a '07 + OEM disk. Excedy is mostly the OEM clutches in these cars. Highly recommend having your flywheel resurface since you have the motor out, and then just lightly hand sand the pressure plate to get off any glazed spots. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Spend the $20 and have the SMFW resurfaced, the new clutch will thank you with longer life. Most of us would not recommend doing what you want to do. You should put a clutch kit in and have the FW turned. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 ^^ I agree with the new clutch, but I have replaced the only the disk before and still got 40k + out of it. Then again, my clutch only had about 30k miles on it when I did, so the pressure plate was still in good shape. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 I ask about the disk only because it's pretty common practice on the MK5/6 VW platforms (what I am used to working with for the past ~four years); Southbend was pretty proud to be one of the first companies to offer a disk for the OEM pressure plate, wasn't sure if the same kind of idea was here or not. Flywheel will be resurfaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 How many miles do you have on the clutch right now? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gto7419 Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Clutch material builds up on the flywheel and pp. If you do not resurface you will not properly "bed" in your new clutch. This will create hot spots and lots of shuddering with a possibility of not grabbing at higher power levels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Definitely replace the throw out bearing while you're in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Clutch material builds up on the flywheel and pp. If you do not resurface you will not properly "bed" in your new clutch. This will create hot spots and lots of shuddering with a possibility of not grabbing at higher power levels. I was planning on resurfacing the flywheel, the pressure plate seems to be fine, plus mileage is low. The clutch disk itself seems to just be the only detrimental part of the pack. Definitely replace the throw out bearing while you're in there. I was originally planning to pull the motor to replace the throwout bearing since it was making noise in the first place, but the TSK sleeve is pretty beat already; my snout is done for underneath, so I'll just end up getting another sleeve kit. How many miles do you have on the clutch right now? The motor was pulled ~12,000 miles ago for the clutch/TSK/TOB, however the TOB was not properly lubricated and was not affixed to the clutch fork, so I'll be investing in a new sleeve kit. It was pulled again 7,000 miles ago for a new shortblock, and now it was pulled to replace the entire longblock (PO reused the spun bearing oil cooler). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 I have done it before, although not on a Subaru. If the FW and PP surfaces are not completely wiped out from heat, you can prep the surfaces with a cookie wheel and break the glaze. It's a crap shoot if it will chatter. In fact when (since I'm on an economy tune it's not getting much abuse) my disk wears out on my CM FX300 I plan on trying this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gto7419 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Unless you resurface flywheel and pp, you won't know what you will get. It might work, it might not.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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