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was the performance gain enough to make it worth replacing?

 

$75 every 4 years? I'd say, "hell yeah". The only issue w/99s+ is that the ECU will sense the increased fuel burn & add more fuel to "correct" it. 98 ECUs do this too but the correction isn't nearly as severe.

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4 years of service is pretty good for an aftermarket electrical part, msd is a good coilpack. The gains in fuel efficiency alone will keep one under the hood of my car whether I have to replace it every four years or not. You can't spend 80 bucks on one part and expect a 10 hp or 10 mpg raise, just not going to happen. Imo its the best 80 dollars I spent in the last year.
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Great im a 99+

 

So is the MSD not as affective? Or should I start using 91 or something so the ecu knows it wont pre detonate with increased spark?

 

The MSD will still retain its effectiveness but you will lose an MPG or so with the bright side of a more responsive & linear power delivery as the fuel delivery increases to match the spark delivered. 91 is probably a little excessive. You're fine on 87. I've been using it the whole time & nothing bad has happened or will happen.

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Its strange because I've never had the car respond the way its supposed to when you reset the ECU.

I remember a while ago you had told me how to do it.

 

Oh it responded but now you probably have a more linear power delivery. I know my ECU responded immediately & I felt the low end kick up a bit.

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Its strange because I've never had the car respond the way its supposed to when you reset the ECU.

I remember a while ago you had told me how to do it.

 

 

 

That's interesting about resetting ecu..how is that done, I still haven't had a chance to hook my car up to a scanner to clear my codes from that misfire, I'm sure the egr code is pending because of the delete, but I never knew an ecu reset could be done.

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Its strange because I've never had the car respond the way its supposed to when you reset the ECU.

I remember a while ago you had told me how to do it.

 

Unhook the negative terminal.

Depress the brake pedal for about 30 "Mississippi" seconds.

Leave battery unplugged for about 1-2hrs.

Plug back up negative terminal & start car.

 

It should shoot up to 1800-2000rpms & then come down gradually to idle again.

Reset complete.

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That's what I thought...

 

I want to know if my ecu is the same regardless of the fact it is speed density..

 

Or why my car is speed density..?

 

The same as what? Phase 1 ECUs? The ECUs for the Phase 2 engines learn more, faster than those of the Phase 1s. They're also more restrictive as they will literally try to learn around changes to spark, air, & fuel.

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