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I am now offering headlight restoration


Preachers Sheets

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  • 3 weeks later...

Stoughton, MA but I am limited to working at the mercy of the elements (no garage) so I try to detail other peoples cars at their house. 90% of people like that idea more anyhow so it really works out well for me.

 

Detailing is a hobby/past time for me. I have a regular job in Boston tending to voice communication equipment for stock traders.

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On Lexan, I use Brasso - military guys know this stuff. Works really well as it's a micro-polish/cleaner used to clean well, brass, other metals and "polishable" surfaces. Just keep a couple clean microfiber towels available.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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I wet sand the plastic first (multiple stages if I'm bored and want to kill time).

 

To get rid of the hazing from the sand paper I use a compound, then a polish then a cleaner. From my experience I think one type of sand paper is enough; its the liquid compound/polisher/cleaner that really gives them the extra sparkle.

 

Liquid correct is applied more evenly through even distribution on the polisher pad, you build up heat at a fast rate and as you slow down the pad breaks down the abrasives in the liquid finer and finer until there is nothing left. Everything has to be uniform, even pressure, same amount of heat and things have to break down. This idea applies way more towards clear coat correction but I just use the same idea on anything that is corrected by abrasive measures and everything seems to come out just as good.

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Good luck getting a PC to fit in the work space! ;)

 

I'd say for some things, you just need to work with a different tool. PC is good for large surfaces, but there are areas you just can't get to with the PC.

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