slushboxgt Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 Hi, I had to change my right front bearing hub on my '08, and the old one would not come out, and yes I had removed the four bolts and the axle nut. I wacked it repeatedly to no avail, and then put a slide hammer puller on it but that only began to separate the the front half of the hub from the mounting flange portion. I also tried the type of puller that uses a long bolt to press against the center of the axle, but I was afraid to put too much pressure and damage the CV joint, and again it was pulling the front of the hub from the mounting flange part. I now can't even get the axle to come all the way back through the front of the hub to get the wheel back on and roll it out of the garage on to a tow truck, something is blocking in the hub, maybe loose bearings? I can slide the axle in and out, but it wont come all the way out to get the nut fully on. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm really stuck here... Thanks for any help. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone_Killer Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 Take a picture. Doesn't sound like you have completed your disassembly process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slushboxgt Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Take a picture. Doesn't sound like you have completed your disassembly process. Sure no problem. but there are just the four bolts and the axle nut right? Unless I have completely missed something, rust is what is holding it on to the knuckle, how to get it off? In this pics the bolts are back in, but the four had been out. In this pic you can see the front half of the hub is separating from the rear flange area. And lastly, this is as far as I can now get the axle to pull back out through the front of the hub, can't get the nut fully on anymore. Thanks, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 Part 1: Soak it with BP Blaster for 1/2hr. Take hammer & chisel, start working it between the WB hub & steering knuckle. Once you started to separate the two. Spray more BP Blaster & keep working all the way around the hub until you have it removed. Part 2: If you can't get it remove by part 1. Use a oxy acetylene torch to heat the hub up. Then after you cool the hub back down (water). Repeat part 1. Caution, make sure speed sensor is out of the steering knuckle & anything you don't want to go up in flame. Removed or protected from the flames & heat. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slushboxgt Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Thanks Mike. been using a BFH and chisel with Gibbs penetrant to no avail... Unfortunately no acetylene, just propane, doubt if it would help... And yup, had removed the sensor before started trying to persuade it. Problem is now I can't even get the wheel back on to get it out of the garage and over to a garage that would have a torch. I'll try again in the morning... Cheers, Paul PS. Did I scrap the CV joint by trying to press the housing out against the axle end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 Not the joint, but you could of damage the spline on the hub or shaft. You could away remove the steering knuckle assy, and take it to a shop to remove the WB hub. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 FYI if you do remove the steering knuckle assy. Remove the lower ball joint nut at the bottom of the lower control arm. Do not remove it by the pinch bolt. It's notorious for snapping in two. If this happens, you will have to drill it out & put a bolt & nut in it's place. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slushboxgt Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Thanks bud, I'll try again to get the hub off in the morning, if it's a no go, I'll pull the whole knuckle and try to find an open garage that can remove it from the knuckle for me. Cheers, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copenhagen6123 Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 That;s some serious corrosion. I had some similar issues on mine when I did the passenger front. If I am not mistaken aren't there some threaded holes on the back side of the knuckle you can use to push the hub off from the back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 Let the PB Blaster do it work. This is a easy job once the PB Blaster does it's job. Give it time. I had a big rust lip on my left rear, but once the PB did its job the hub came off. I also used a slide hammer and the hub began to split. I think Mike warned us of that when he did his. It's just rust holding it on. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slushboxgt Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 Well, followed Mike's recommendation and dove into it again this morning after letting it soak all night in penetrating oil... Used a chisel repeatedly around the edges with the BFH, but damned if I could break that thing loose! Must have helped though, but what finally did it was alternating from side to side holding a small sledge against the side of the bolt flanges at the top, and then wacking that with a full sized sledge to get it to break free and turn in the bore. The base finally did break loose and rotated a bit, then the rest was easy with the chisel phew! Warning; hitting the face of a hammer with another hammer is never a good idea because of the risk of flying shards, but I was wearing good safety glasses and heavy gloves, desperation... Car now runs smooth and quiet, thanks again to Mike and everyone else for your help, hard to believe it had seized like that after only four winters! Cheers, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Glad you got it done. By any chance did you coat all mating surfaces with a lite coat of anti-seize. It make the next time so much easier. I'm on my 4th in the front & 3rd in the rear. Sorry I forgot to state that earlier. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slushboxgt Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 By any chance did you coat all mating surfaces with a lite coat of anti-seize. Mike Damn, now you tell me Mike! You mean I'll have to tear it all down again and do it over! Just joking bud, yup I put anti-seize. Why have you burned through so many bearings? Are you running funky wheel offsets or acute camber angles? Or maybe from towing? Thanks again for your help. Paul PS. I'll be driving it down your way on Monday, I turn left at Binghamton to get to Sidney. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copenhagen6123 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Glad it all turned out ok. Hammer Down that is alot of wheel bearings even with your mileage. What are you riding on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 OEM's only avg. about 50k. So I switch to SKF wheel bearing from NAPA. They seem to be holding up better then OEM. We'll see how they work out over the long haul. The car see the drag strip, twisties & towing duties (see post 5&6 in link below). http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/much-have-you-towed-your-legacy-144604.html. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Two words you become VERY familiar with when you work a lot on Subarus: ANTI SEIZE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copenhagen6123 Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Thats for sure! Especially in areas where they are using a lot of salt on the winter roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadrew88 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Quick 2016 addition here for anyone with this problem in the future...I had the exact same issue with the front right bearing hub on my 09 LGT (seized hub that started to separate with a slide hammer). I tried most techniques you read about online; PB blaster, BFH, chisel, slide hammer, using the steering linkage as a press. None of those worked for me. What released the hub for me was using an air hammer on the bolts partially threaded into the hub from backside. Took about 10 seconds to start to move outward @ 85 psi. Pretty easy it turns out. This was a huge PITA until I bought an air hammer. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 air tools help make everything suck less Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 air tools help make everything suck less or a hydraulic press 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadrew88 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 air tools help make everything suck less True that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 ...What released the hub for me was using an air hammer on the bolts partially threaded into the hub from backside. Took about 10 seconds to start to move outward @ 85 psi. Pretty easy it turns out. This was a huge PITA until I bought an air hammer. Hope this helps. Good tip! I think I will get an air hammer for my tool collection. Harbor Freight has one for only $11 that gets some good reviews. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-impact-hammer-kit-92037.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sneaky Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Mine gave me some issues. Thankfully a solid chisel lots of overnight PB and 4lb mini sledge did the trick. I did threaten it with the 8lb sledge though. GL to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 I had the same issue on both sides of the front ('09, car lived most its life in New York). The bearing hub assemblies were so frozen on with rust that in addition to pb blast I had to repeatedly heat and cool the things with MAPP and water. Also had to replace both front knuckles because of the pinch bolt. Turned a couple reasonable jobs into a couple of really big multi-day, PITA, messy, jobs. Glad you were able to take care of it. Sounds like you're mechanically pretty competent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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