What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?

Well, I have mostly been posting on the 2nd gen forum with my '97 wagon. But I have been quietly working on refreshing the 2.2 out of the '92. The timing belt needed done, and it leaked so much oil, I only had to replace the filter once in a while! Then the fuel pump went out so I decided it was time to tackle everything at once. So I pulled engine and tore it down to replace every gasket and o-ring short of splitting the case. Against my better judgment, after talking to many people, a dealer mechanic and a local subaru mechanic, I did not (yet) replace the head gaskets. Everyone said if they aren't a problem, to leave them alone. So far I am resisting the urge to do it since the engine is on a stand.

 

So anyhow, I've done the cam seals/o-rings, oil pump, water pump, oil pan, water crossover o-rings. Everything has been subaru, except I scored a cool gasket set from JCWhitney that had all the timing cover seals and gaskets and a whole slew of seals and o-rings for $25, so it has all new timing rubbers.

 

Today I installed the the timing belt, pulleys and tensioner. Pulled the drive plate, resealed the oil separator cover, new o-ring on the service hole cover, new rear main seal, then put the drive plate back on and finished up the timing covers.

 

Hopefully tomorrow I'll drop the long block back in, get the intake on and get everything hooked back up. Then all I should have left is the fuel pump, and she'll be ready to hit the road again.

If your oil separator plate is plastic then I would replace it.

If your oil separator plate is plastic then I would replace it.

 

Agreed. I got a metal one figuring it would be plastic, but it was metal.

 

Since the motor was ready, I put it in, without replacing the head gaskets, hope that doesn't bite me later.

 

Got everything back together except the radiator and belts. Going to pick up new belts and hoses tomorrow, along with a fuel pump. If I have time, I might be able to try and fire her up tomorrow.

I bet you'll be fine with the existing head gaskets. And in the unlikely event of faiulure down the road you will be able to pull the motor easily enough.

Lowered the transmission in my car to switch the shifters u-joint, I finally got rid of that old unserviceable expense. I slapped some kartboy bushings in and replaced the spring pin for a shoulder bolt. That Sti shifter feels snappy in there:). The rear shifter bushing is a little wore out too but I have seen the aftermarket ones how are those as far as an upgrade from oem?

The only sticker worthy of gracing my window, LOL http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20131017_163759_zpsad40a5f9.jpg

Last week I picked up my "new" 92 Legacy for $300! All it needed was a water pump. Runs great and has about 202,900 miles on it. I absolutely love it although it needs cosmetic work.

upgrading the stock speakers!!! jl audio 6.3/4. components. soon to come 4 channel memphis amp and 10 inch sub. tweeters are going in stock 2nd gen pannels. i'll make em fit. also grabbed the stock front bass speaker mounts from a 2nd gen too. and while i was there i picked up a rear sway bar and the drop down brackets too hook up all came from a 98 outback.

I was able to use the gen two tweeter panels. I had to cut one of the pins off or something. It's been a while so I don't remember exactly how I did it. They don't fit perfectly and kinda get a little wonky when the door is shut but I don't even notice it much.

Nice choice on JL Audio, I plan on upgrading to one of their 10" W3 or W6 subs. If you upgrade your power/ground wires going to your headunit you can get more power out of it, I run 6 1/2" infinity components front/rear off a pioneer headunit. A lot less clipping/distortion than it was without the big power wires.

This was painfully enjoyable to watch, LOL [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6JTbwgSGRQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player]Nitrous vs. Junkyard car. - YouTube[/ame]

Installed my winters, painted the new forester calipers, installed new rear speakers, repaired fabric on rear deck, blacked out chrome belt molding strip, lube oil and filter changed. and protect dipped the grill.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee110/bcmaxx/20131021_112907_HDR_zps5d52033f.jpg

 

anyone know how to fix the wind whistle in the drivers door mirror area?

Probably need that cushion tape replaced under the base of the mirror.^^ car looks good bcmaxx.

ahh! thanks, I didnt even think of that as making the noise! thanks for the compliment also Its my $300 winterbeater ive been fixing on !

 

dont have much for pics but i did a bunch of body work on it myself : how it was

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee110/bcmaxx/howitwas_zps09bb31ee.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee110/bcmaxx/wbeaterr_zps1457e0cf.jpg

Edited October 21, 2013 by bcmaxx

Your a lucky dog to find one of those hoods, been scouring the united states and subaru never had much of a following where I live. There isn't too much going on in that mirror besides the tape, might need to adjust your window stops or replace the weather stripping..I love the frameless glass for weight but the seal for the window takes a beating for it.

yeah, I realize how hard they are to find now, I got the hood and rear spoiler for 40 bucks, called back for some more goodies like grille, and they had already crushed it... and i cant seem to find anything else reasonable.

I've found a couple out here. One day I found a complete 22T longblock sitting on the ground next to a SS while searching for a corner light on my lunch break. Someone pulled it to get at the trans. I wanted to snag it but I had to go back to work.

How much they asking for them monkey, tirelessly looking for ss or ts body parts. Want to let you know I'm buying parts for a turbo build.. I thank you for the motivation sir;) my lady on the other hand would want you dead. Lol..I got a front mount and some rubber fittings off an evo8 for dirt cheap. May only run 8psi but it will be cold as ice if it works haha

About $40 for a hood at the pick n pull. I've only found two. Good luck with your build, lol.

 

Those kids who blew up the SS suck! fun to watch though.

all in!! next step amp

I also picked up a purge valve from a 2nd gen used so no more check eng light!!!

tons of great rust-free body parts here in Georgia. These cars are in decent stock at the junkyards. Granted most of them are wrecked, so some of the body may be crushed but I've seen plenty of great quarter panels, doors, hoods, etc.

 

I have several parts for sale still over on the legacycentral site, including a 97 Outback rear sway bar - someone get this junk because I'm a hoarded and I can't stand to crush it at the metal recycler

Arizona = rust-free, but faded. I've been helping a buddy with his 2nd jdm V7 motor, last one had a oil pump failure because he beats the crap out of it, LOL. Had to replace the rear timing cover which meant removing an avcs camgear. There's about 4 wrong ways to install it wrong and its not included in the service manual. Without the cam wrenches and cam lock its nearly impossible. The 5 speed center diff was welded and front axles removed because he thinks its going to be fun in RWD. I still don't get this concept and I'm pretty sure he's going to swap back to AWD after he falls behind in the next cruise through the twisties. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20131026_174321_zps3166e952.jpg

Sorry for the poor phone camera

I found using a hole-saw the easiest to remove AVCS cam bolts... drill em off and replace them.

 

RWD would be fun as hell, who cares if you're last through twisties when you get to light up rear tires exiting some turns I still yearn for a 4th gen 2.5i to get turned into a V8 RWD swap

I've heard of some nabiscos going full drift and it doesn't work out. Here's someone parting out theirs http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2565321 Unfortunately Subarus don't handle great, they grip. Economics and ground clearance was their first priority, takes a lot of work and parts to make them handle.

installing the rear sway bar brackets and bar. will need to come up with some links tho. and figure out how to attack to control arm rod.

its a 18mm rear sway bar from a 97outback waggon. I ran a 8x1.25 tap through all the holes first. made it alot easier!!