5th gen Clutch?

So my car is at subaru now amd they pulled the motor while its apart I want to swap to a better clutch something that will handle our stage 2 tq and hp. Any suggestions?

 

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I can only suggest what NOT to buy and that would be the Clutchmasters FX 350.

 

I've been driving it for over 5k miles and it has been a miserable experience.

^^^thanks

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I can only suggest what NOT to buy and that would be the Clutchmasters FX 350.

 

I've been driving it for over 5k miles and it has been a miserable experience.

 

What are your complaints with the FX350? There seems to be a lot of mixed reviews on this clutch.

Really matters how much torque you are putting to the wheels. Currently have 15K miles on the Fx350. Got 37K out of the ACT HDDS; Got 48K out of the stock clutch (0-12k Stock; 12K-18K Stage I protune; 18K-48K Stage II Protune). Another note on the OEM clutch. It never put immediate power donwn to the wheels. Always a "delay". It was fried when removed.

 

Reposting from this associated thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/best-clutch-choice-daily-driver-eye-e85-stg-iii-217854.html?p=4663409&highlight=HDDS#post4663409

 

have the CM Fx350. It feels like OEM with super grip. Break in did take some time. It was more like 2000 miles, of which 500 was local stop and go. It is a very driveable clutch for every day with no problems holding the TQ. Has a feel much closer to OEM. I installed with a resurfaced flywheel; not next time. The extended period to break in may have been for the for the grip of the clutch material to adapt to the flywheel surface. Perhaps a better initial surface would have yielded better results. Also, it's not the mileage for break in, but the engagements.

 

ACT HDDS break in was much better. However, the engagement point was not as forgiving. Easy to smoke this clutch on hill if you were only trying to move the car a little and not launch it, say parking... Second, the pedal force was way way more than OEM.

 

Note: There is no standard for clutch TQ ratings. I can say the ACT HDSS had to have been at or near the TQ of my Stage II 5th gen. In pouring through posts, the Fx350 should be much greater than the TQ of the car.

 

Southbend has a good rep. It cost a bit more, and I could not find much info on it when I had to make a choice.

 

In the end, the evidence shows:

 

OEM clutch with no engine mods - Sucks

 

OEM clutch with Stage I - Oh crap this thing sucks and is getting on my nerves

 

OEM clutch with Stage II - OEM clutch, YOU ARE AN ABOMINATION. Take your high engagement point and shove it. Take your long drawn-out down engagement to put power on to the wheels and take a hike. I will gladly BURN YOUR MATERIAL TO THE RIVETS!!!

 

ACT HDDS - Cool, AWD burn outs! Quick engagement. Hmmm, left leg is building muscle mass. Engagement point is narrow and still high. Easy to smoke this clutch.

 

CM Fx350 - Excellent holding power. Quicker to transfer power to the wheels than the ACT. Enjoying the lower engagement point with OEM-like pedal pressure. Much easier to engage the clutch. Break-in is a BITCH. It just takes longer. I even planned a 1000 mile trip to try and accelerate break in. If you don't drive a lot, then the time to break this clutch in will destroy you. The materials is so grippy, it sends the drive train and car into a judder; must depress the clutch and start again. Some of it is relearning. Just 100 more RPM over the ACT and engagement was much smoother.

 

Overall, I drive more so the Fx350 break in period, although aggravating, was bearable. IMHO, the Fx350 has been far superior. Got about 6K miles on the clutch now and it's all good.

I would like to hear the issues with the Fx350. If not the Fx350, then can you provide a recommendation?

 

From reading the transmission thread in the technical area, there seems to be a mechanical/fit issue with the Spec B version. I think my long break-in period may have been attributed to the dissimilar machined surface between the clutch plate and the resurfaced flywheel.

 

srehn, did you get a new fly wheel, resurface or just install the clutch setup?

 

Southbend seems to be a viable alternative. Perhaps the few with this clutch can update there impressions.

What are your complaints with the FX350? There seems to be a lot of mixed reviews on this clutch.

 

Where to begin...

 

First thing in the morning, when the clutch is cold, it's a dream. After a few miles it's a bad dream.

 

Getting started in first gear is the biggest issue. Once you're moving it's actually a really nice clutch. But getting started goes like this: Hold revs at 2800-3000 rpm, COMMIT to letting it out and hang-on. It's really lovely on a hill or in heavy traffic where I tend to lack commitment and I end up with a level of shudder that I didn't think was possible. I have to believe that I've done things to the transmission that will require repair. There is very little room for error and the sweet spot is not dependable or consistent. (NF Performance did my clutch damper valve delete.)

 

It's possible this too much clutch for me and this is the way it's supposed to perform and the way some want it to perform but for me it has really impacted my enjoyment of the car. However, there is a growing body of evidence showing that these are failing waaay to early:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fx350-slipping-15k-223779.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-thread-clutchmaster-clutches-longevity-issues-225721.html

I would like to hear the issues with the Fx350. If not the Fx350, then can you provide a recommendation?

 

From reading the transmission thread in the technical area, there seems to be a mechanical/fit issue with the Spec B version. I think my long break-in period may have been attributed to the dissimilar machined surface between the clutch plate and the resurfaced flywheel.

 

srehn, did you get a new fly wheel, resurface or just install the clutch setup?

 

Southbend seems to be a viable alternative. Perhaps the few with this clutch can update there impressions.

 

I used a new OEM flywheel and the TSK (?) TOB kit. Installation was done by an very good Subaru tech.

It never put immediate power donwn to the wheels. Always a "delay". It was fried when removed.

 

I bet it the stock clutch would have performed better under higher than stock torque conditions with the damper delete.

I ran OEM set upto @50k at a bit higher power levels with no slip. When getting engine built, Cobb in Plano suggested a comp clutch stage2 which I've been running for about 15k - first gear was shaky a bit but the delete helped considerably.

Guess I'm not the only one that had a miserable experience with a ClutchMasters product. My FX100 was terrible. Still convinced that the pressure plate was defective and like srehn said it probably did irreversible damage to the trans.

 

The Southbend I have now has been great for 10k miles.

 

Edit: To the OP whatever you do make sure they use OEM fill or Extra S in the trans. My experience with other full synthetic GL-5 gear oils has been less than stellar as well.

I have nothing but good things to say about my ClutchMaster 300 that I've been running for about 10k miles. Paired it with a new WRX flywheel and have enjoyed it ever since!

Guess I'm not the only one that had a miserable experience with a ClutchMasters product. My FX100 was terrible. Still convinced that the pressure plate was defective and like srehn said it probably did irreversible damage to the trans.

 

The Southbend I have now has been great for 10k miles.

 

Edit: To the OP whatever you do make sure they use OEM fill or Extra S in the trans. My experience with other full synthetic GL-5 gear oils has been less than stellar as well.

 

I found that Motul Gear 300 has the same benefits as Extra S but lasts longer. Extra S quickly broke down > 24K miles and the knotchness returned.

Everytime I read one of these clutch threads I sit and think that the next time I do a high speed pull will be the time my OEM clutch gives out. Especially since I plan to do the job myself (with a lift), but my clutch just keeps chugging along, 62k miles. 40k at stage 2 and still no slipping. Maybe I'm not launching enough...

It's a gradual thing. If you notice the clutch slips just a bit in 5th (or 6th) on the highway and the clock starts; about 4-6 weeks. Are you Cobb OTS or protune? Big difference in the wTQ numbers.

 

Do some research if you are going to do it yourself. This is not a WRX or 4th gen. The dealer removed the tranny. The indy subie shop removed the engine .... both took the same amount of labor.

Everytime I read one of these clutch threads I sit and think that the next time I do a high speed pull will be the time my OEM clutch gives out. Especially since I plan to do the job myself (with a lift), but my clutch just keeps chugging along, 62k miles. 40k at stage 2 and still no slipping. Maybe I'm not launching enough...

 

If history repeats itself you just jinked yourself! Lets see if you make it to September!

Oh I know, part of me wishes it would just give me that first sign so I could get it over with. It was Cobb ots for for about 30k and now bren etuned for the last 10k

I've been running the ACT HDSS in my car for about 3 months now with no complaints so far. It is more stiff than OEM, but still very manageable as a daily driver and it has held up well to a stage 2 e85 tune.

I bet it the stock clutch would have performed better under higher than stock torque conditions with the damper delete.

 

This is an interesting point! I don't race my car or really launch it hard during driving. I do like the torque made available at lower RPMs, especially in 2nd gear. There are also a couple of local on-ramps that are fun to test the limits on, but that's about it for me.

 

This whole experience has really got me spooked regarding aftermarket clutches in general, and anything designed for to handle more power as the materials used seem to wear out so much more quickly.

 

Do you think that a new OEM clutch paired with damper valve delete would work for me? I'd just like to get an honest 30-40K out of a clutch without too much fuss!

Refresh my memory as to what situation you are in with your current clutch and length of time you have been at Stage 2.

Refresh my memory as to what situation you are in with your current clutch and length of time you have been at Stage 2.

 

Summary: CM FX350 with horrible judder and sounds like something may be loose in tranny. 1 month Break-in was wonderful, but problems started shortly afterward. I had the FX350 installed in mid-August and think it needs to go now. I'm afraid to drive it for fear of doing serious damage to transmission.

 

Full thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cm-fx350-clutch-woes-alreadyi-230968.html?t=230968

Go with the Southbend as others have.

Go with the Southbend as others have.

 

Received damper delete valve today and ordered Southbend Stage 2 Daily which should arrive next week, then it's back in the shop to hopefully get this clutch done right this time!

Smart move not waiting for things to get worse. God CM products are the worst...

Still on the fx300 bandwagon. Guys at the shop doing the break in say no chattering or awkward engaging or disengagment. Right around 600miles on it so far.