How To: Replace/Rebuild torn CV boot and/or Axle

You're probably ok with just rebooting it. Since it's on the outside it should be much easier than having to remove the whole axle.

 

GL

I used the Beck Arnley kit for my outer boot and it was a simple job. You do need a socket for the axle nut.

Is it torn, or just leaking from under the clamp? If it's just leaking under the clamp, put a new clamp on. No need to reboot.

 

Outer boot requires taking apart the inner to slide it on, so you'll have to reboot the inner as well.

BA kit is good for this. Some say OE from dealer only, but I don't see that.

Is it torn, or just leaking from under the clamp? If it's just leaking under the clamp, put a new clamp on. No need to reboot.

 

Outer boot requires taking apart the inner to slide it on, so you'll have to reboot the inner as well.

BA kit is good for this. Some say OE from dealer only, but I don't see that.

 

Not true. You can do just the outer without removing the axle from the car. You do need to undo the lower strut mount or ball joint to get the axle out. The Beck Arnly kit has the instructions.

Interesting. Any how to on the outer? When I took mine apart I couldn't see how to get the outer apart. The inner had a snap ring to remove. I see this:

 

"TO REMOVE THE OUTER CV JOINT:

There is a splined section with a snap ring on it. Take the half shaft out, clamp the shaft in a vice, and use a large socket extension (3/4" is nice) and smack it with a large hammer a few times.

 

You won't be able to find a large snap ring like inner CV, because there's isn't one there!"

honestly, i'd just replace the entire thing with a reman unit from autozone. only a little more work (if that) and 60 dollars for a nice new axle. unless like someone mentioned before, if it's just a loose boot clamp, just replace the clamp and be done.

Is it torn, or just leaking from under the clamp? If it's just leaking under the clamp, put a new clamp on. No need to reboot.

 

Outer boot requires taking apart the inner to slide it on, so you'll have to reboot the inner as well.

BA kit is good for this. Some say OE from dealer only, but I don't see that.

 

 

I ordered the kit, so it should be here late next week. However, I will get my first close look at it this weekend. If the clamp is loose only, I'll inspect, re-grease, then camp it down.

 

honestly, i'd just replace the entire thing with a reman unit from autozone. only a little more work (if that) and 60 dollars for a nice new axle. unless like someone mentioned before, if it's just a loose boot clamp, just replace the clamp and be done.

 

The nearest Autozone for me is about 4700 miles away. Shipping heavy things to Germany is expensive. I'll try the inspect/reboot option first. I do have access to a full garage with lift bays and air tools, so that makes it a lot easier.

When pulling the axle how does one prevent pulling the seal out ? That is my only confusion with this process? I need to replace my driver side half shaft once it warms up a bit and wanting to get the process down ahead of time. I would think there is a clip of some type at the end of the axle holding it on the front diff.

when you see the inner spline end of your replacement, you'll id the 'clip' and get the idea; it simply a plain open-end ring that sits in a groove almost at the very end of the shaft. people have characterized the removal as a 'pop,' which is pretty fair; as you carefully pry, you'll feel the pop of the clip releasing, and immediately gain some clearance -- then the rest slides out like butter.

the seal is seated inside; if you're deliberate and take reasonable care, you shouldn't harm it or disturb it at all during removal.

 

as for installing your replacement, as you guide in, 'feel' your splines into alignment. then, holding that in place, give the opposite (hub) end of the axle a tap with something blunt and a bit weighty (protect the threaded end if you like). i find the clip really responds to method this as opposed to trying to force-push the axle in.

best luck.

After being under the car this weekend, I can only say this applies to my 3.0R:

 

Who the !@#$ though this would be a good idea without removing the half shaft? Heh. Really, the outers were both fine, it was both inners (not 1) that were leaking a little. No tears. I left the shafts in place, which meant working between the cats with little room to do the work. I could not re-band the boot, but I used a really good tie wrap (very wide and strong. It should hold until I can figure out the next move.

 

So I am pondering ordering two new boot kits and rebuilding or getting two new half shafts. Hmmm.... Is the aggravation worth the $50-100 saved? And if the half shaft does not fit then what? I must mail order (2 weeks), then if it does not work, pay to ship it back. Damn. These Germans are just so expensive for parts/service.

If you have the time, I'd order new boots and replace yours. The problem may be if you keep driving you may work all the grease out of the boot. How much has leaked out ?

 

If the CV joints are not making noise, just change the boots.

 

My left front replacement axle didn't last more then 4 years. Which is about how long the OEM one lasted, the boot tore.

 

 

As for seating the axle in the tranny, I jack up the LCA so the axle is horizontal then hold a piece of 2X4 over the end of the axle where the nut threads on and hit it with a 5lb hammer.

Edited February 11, 2014 by Max Capacity

When pulling the axle how does one prevent pulling the seal out ? That is my only confusion with this process? I need to replace my driver side half shaft once it warms up a bit and wanting to get the process down ahead of time. I would think there is a clip of some type at the end of the axle holding it on the front diff.

 

Do yourself a favor and have an extra seal on hand. It's worth the $8

 

Sent from my SGH-T699 using Tapatalk

The OEM axle is well balanced and high quality. After market is not going to be the same quality. As long as the boots are replaced if torn before too long, keeping it is the best bet. There are tons of threads out there on 'shaking' cars in D at stop because of aftermarket axles.

 

Rebooting is easy, but if you are just seeping, I would though a new band on there. Sounds like you need to pull the axle to do that.

If you have the time, I'd order new boots and replace yours. The problem may be if you keep driving you may work all the grease out of the boot. How much has leaked out ?

 

If the CV joints are not making noise, just change the boots.

 

My left front replacement axle didn't last more then 4 years. Which is about how long the OEM one lasted, the boot tore.

 

 

As for seating the axle in the tranny, I jack up the LCA so the axle is horizontal then hold a piece of 2X4 over the end of the axle where the nut threads on and hit it with a 5lb hammer.

 

 

Very little has leaked, but the passenger side grease seems a bit thin, so I think a reboot is in order. The driver side is seeping very, very little. So if I am under there, I may as well do both.

Have you thought about just adding a zip tie or lockwire and just try to stop the leak ? I know its winter time...that may get you through till warmer weather. and you can get the OEM parts.

Have you thought about just adding a zip tie or lockwire and just try to stop the leak ? I know its winter time...that may get you through till warmer weather. and you can get the OEM parts.

 

that was my initial thought but it's the oem parts that cause the leak through the band. I used something similar to these:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/62P-Series-Small-Diameter-Clamps/dp/B0037QFPSG/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392395321&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=ringworm+ssclamp]62P Series Small Diameter Clamps - 62 p 1"-2" micro-gear ssclamp w/1/4" hex [set of 10] - Amazon.com[/ame]

couldn't find clamp thin enough to fit inside of the groove so it sits on top of it. It fixed one side, the other one still leaks a little. I will be putting new axles anyway so I will just let it sip slowly.

I did use a zip tie for one side, as I left the axle on so the room was tough to work in. So next time I will pull both fronts and re seal the boots. I think re-greasing would also be wise. It's not like I have a lot of mileage on the car (53K Km over 8 years), but cleaning out the joints and fresh grease will make it last longer.

My dad did this repair on his outbacks, both sides in the front, and had the vibration. I have a drivers side one that isnt leaking but clicks when I turn, so I know its my turn to replace one. I am weary of going with one that isn't oem due to his bad luck. Found a remaned one from the local subaru dealer for 180. Any thoughts on if its worth it or just take the chance with one from Autozone?

Cardone is the remanufacturer for Subaru and it's their premium line.

Small issue attempting to replace the axle using the "Apex-XT" method. The inner boot completely severed and the entire joint pulled out of the green cup which remains lodged in the tranny. So, anyone have any tips on removing green cup?

 

Never mind. The cup was popped loose from the procedure and it only took a little crowbar-lite to pry it out.

Edited May 3, 2014 by bochinam
Problem solved

I replaced my friends driver side axle with a Napa front axle.

I removed the strutbolts and marked the position on the camber bolt.

I have a Makita electric impact gun, so I didn't need to unstake the axle but and had the driver front jacked up high enough and on a jackstand that I didn't lose any tranny fluid.

Hardest part was the time to use my 3/8 extension to bang the axle out of the wheel spline,and when reinstalling banging in the axle with a rubber mallet into the tranny.

I used a small craftsman prybar to remove ale from tranny as I couldn't pop it off manually.

I did the job under an hour, and would've been faster but I had to remove wheel and tire again as I forgot to stake the wheel but impact gun makes thing go faster and I staked the nut.

 

Hopefully no damage to the seal and no future leaks and that the Napa refurbished axle is a quality part with tight tolerences so no future vibration or leak problems.

What torque settings did you use on your front axle nut?

What torque settings did you use on your front axle nut?

 

137 ft/lbs

Read it on one of the threads somewhere or you can do a search,..

I'm familiar with the torque setting. Was curious because you mentioned "impact gun makes thing go faster and I staked the nut" sounded like it was torqued with the impact gun then staked. Was hoping I had misread it

I'll be tackling this next month and have a few questions:

1. Can I remove the axle just by removing the wheel bearing as oppsed to swinging the knuckle out of the way? The car had 157k PA miles when I got it, so I'm concerned rust will be an issues with the pinch bolt, ball joint and end link. I've recently done the bearing so I know that will be significantly easier to remove.

 

2. Is it okay to do one side at a time? I don't believe the DS is bad, but I know for certain the PS inner boot has been in multiple pieces for a while now. I've read posts in this thread where someone specifies, "I've done this side," or "that side," I just want to be sure it isn't as undesirable to do one side only as it would be for brakes or something.

 

3. I know I didn't replace the axle nut when I did the wheel bearing, I'm assuming it would be in my best interests to replace it this time around?

 

4.I was looking at rockauto for axles, but from what most have said in this thread, Duralast 7336 are actually reman OEM. Is this still the case or has the supplier changed at all to less quality?