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I just purchased an 05 legacy gt, the owner tells me it was in good running order but shows me a receipt from a 'renowned subie shop' called speedyroo in colorado that fixed a bad idle and misfire code(p0302) by fixing a massive vacuum leak and replacing the spark plugs. A few weeks after owning it (and about a month after speedyroo worked on the car) a misfire p0302 code comes up again. I take it to my shop and they look at the plugs which were these

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Legacy/Bosch/Spark_Plug/2005/GT_Limited/BS4418.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller

(Bosch 4418 platinum +4)

 

and say that these are not the correct plugs to run. Aside from being heat range 8 and the stock plugs which my shop replaced them with (NGK 7913 SILFR6 Iridium) being heat range 6 apparently these plugs were also not long range plugs like the NGK iridiums.

 

So my shop checks the coil packs, checks for vacuum leaks, replaces the plugs and the car drives great for about three days when the light comes on again...

 

I've read a ton of misfire threads on this forum and it seems that burnt exhaust valves are pretty common. If the fuel system checks out when I take the car back tomorrow-Is this a likely diagnosis at 93k for those of you who know subarus or are there other more likely problems like- possibly the oil control valve?

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good call on the spark plugs. Your shop did put the correct ones for this car.

 

As for the CEL, do the 'easy' troubleshooting first:

1. swap coil pack between cylinder 2 and 4 (driver side) and see if misfire follows (if it does, then bad coilpack)

2. if not, swap injectors between 2 and 4. if misfire follows, then bad injector. If not, well yep next step is a compression/leakdown test to check whether you have ringland issues or bad valve clearance.

 

I had bad valve clearance at 63k miles :rolleyes:.

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When the fuel pressure checks out ok, then have a compression test done. That will tell you, you have a burnt valve or may be a broken ring land on a piston.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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the coil packs have been check and are good, the last thing thats needs to be checked is the fuel pressure.

 

bad valve clearance at 63k? jeez. How much did that set you back to repair?

 

It was not too bad really. Valves were OK apparently (caught on time). At that time, I just wanted my car back. So I did not go all out at all.

-bought a full gasket kit (~250 bucks)

-8 valve buckets (30$ a piece I think)

-labor

-extra: killerb oil pick up tube and tsk3 kit

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I ended up having a pretty massive leak in my intercooler that is making me run pretty lean, so I've decided to upgrade to get rid of those plastic end tanks to a perrin tmic. From what I've read the install doesn't look too rough, but it looks like some people have had to clock the turbo. Does anyone know if this is necessary with a 5eat?
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interesting. this is strange though that this only affected one cylinder..

 

I was thinking the same thing, but I've been going to these guys for 5 almost 6 years now and they have never led me astray; This is honestly the first time in 5 years that I've taken a car to them that the problem wasn't fixed immediately, and they didn't charge to take a second look when I took it back with the light still on, they even took a look at my rom to make sure the car hadn't been tuned and flashed back to stock. But if I install this and I'm having the same issues I will definitely post back and let everyone know

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When you remove the old tmic do not remove the TB hose from the TB only remove the tmic from the hose.

 

Then install the Perrin in the hose first and see how it lines up with the turbo flange. Start the two flange bolts then tighten the TB hose clamp. If it looks like the Perrin lines up well when starting the two flange bolts, tighten the TB hose clamp.

 

Oh you might want to remove the boot from the TB hose, I did and a lot of us do.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 month later...

Just an update. Put the perrin tmic in, it looks great fit great love it. Didn't however get rid of my cel which is by the way, no longer as intermittent as it was.

 

After taking it back to my shop, it looks like I have a leaky exhaust valve on cylinder 2 and a cracked ring land.

 

So, it looks like as far as cost and turn around time; (since this is my only vehicle) its smarter to drive this thing as long as possible and then just rebuild the head and buy a new short block. I'm going to try not to get too carried away, but funds permitting I would like to buy a somewhat built short block, and this is what I have my sights set on, http://www.importimageracing.com/import-image-racing-stage-1-short-block-2002-2014-subaru.html, this block will utilize stock rods as it doesn't look like much of a weak point until you get beyond 400whp.... I dont have a specific power goal in mind but would like to be above 300whp for now while leaving a littel breathing room and keeping my options open for the future; for instance bigger injectors but not running them at 100% duty cycle, bigger turbo but not running it too close to its efficiency threshold yada yada

 

Already on order are

 

Catless up

Catless down

GS three port ebc

What I am planning on using

 

arp head studs

cometic gaskets

1000cc injectors

wondering if a fuel pump is necessary at 300 whp level

looking at vf52, have already looked at BNR, would really like an AVO because I would prefer a ball bearing have any of you had experience with BNR for longer than say 20k miles? I've used quite a few aftermarket journal bearing turbos on other cars and would like to try another route after seeing shaft play sooner than I believe I should have.

 

...am just thinking of parts of the top of my head and am open to input. Am also wondering what can be done to bullet proof the 5eat while she is getting torn apart.

 

And am wondering what any of you will have to say about a tgv delete and the stock oil control valves.....basically anything you guys can think of that will help this build; you have been a huge help so far, and after reading through a couple nightmare builds like waspGT's I'm a little hesitant to do anything more than a stock short block.

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I just got a P0304 - so hopefully I am not on the same path you are. Probably am though...

 

Looking at Max Capacity's build thread (VF52 with OEM fueling) do you really need a built shortblock for the power levels you want to be at?

 

If you are doing injectors you should probably do the fuel pump also (the Dw65c is only $150). Seems like cheap insurance.

 

I think generally people have good experiences with the BNRs (check the thread in the engine forum) Scooby2.5 is the only one I know of with the Avo and he seems to like it.

 

JMP is also starting to rebuild Turbos - those who have them only have good things to say.

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You're probably right about the built shortblock but I dont know what the future holds and the lean stock tune and stock pistons is what got me into this mess to begin with, so I would like to think that I will being doing this build right; and only once. I think an overbuilt block underutilized fueling and a turbo well within its efficiency is a safe way to make more power, until I hit the lotto and do another massive over haul. thanks for the input on the BNR's tho I'm gonna give them another look because 1200 for journal bearing vf 52 and 1800 for a ball bearing is a little more than I want to spend on a turbo.
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Just an update. Put the perrin tmic in, it looks great fit great love it. Didn't however get rid of my cel which is by the way, no longer as intermittent as it was.

 

After taking it back to my shop, it looks like I have a leaky exhaust valve on cylinder 2 and a cracked ring land.

 

So, it looks like as far as cost and turn around time; (since this is my only vehicle) its smarter to drive this thing as long as possible and then just rebuild the head and buy a new short block. I'm going to try not to get too carried away, but funds permitting I would like to buy a somewhat built short block, and this is what I have my sights set on, http://www.importimageracing.com/import-image-racing-stage-1-short-block-2002-2014-subaru.html, this block will utilize stock rods as it doesn't look like much of a weak point until you get beyond 400whp.... I dont have a specific power goal in mind but would like to be above 300whp for now while leaving a littel breathing room and keeping my options open for the future; for instance bigger injectors but not running them at 100% duty cycle, bigger turbo but not running it too close to its efficiency threshold yada yada

 

Already on order are

 

Catless up

Catless down

GS three port ebc

What I am planning on using

 

arp head studs

cometic gaskets

1000cc injectors

wondering if a fuel pump is necessary at 300 whp level

looking at vf52, have already looked at BNR, would really like an AVO because I would prefer a ball bearing have any of you had experience with BNR for longer than say 20k miles? I've used quite a few aftermarket journal bearing turbos on other cars and would like to try another route after seeing shaft play sooner than I believe I should have.

 

...am just thinking of parts of the top of my head and am open to input. Am also wondering what can be done to bullet proof the 5eat while she is getting torn apart.

 

And am wondering what any of you will have to say about a tgv delete and the stock oil control valves.....basically anything you guys can think of that will help this build; you have been a huge help so far, and after reading through a couple nightmare builds like waspGT's I'm a little hesitant to do anything more than a stock short block.

 

You really need to read my Shopping List and Rebuild thread.

 

I only had to see 1000cc injectors to know that you have no idea what you want.

 

Build your car for a purpose, not for a number. Building for a number, without actually having a real need for it (other than WANT, or, "I think I NEED. . ") is just dumb. These are pretty potent cars right out of the box, and if you're aiming to be the fastest guy on the street, let me be the first to dash your hopes because that guy isn't you and doesn't drive a turbo Subaru; that guy drives something else, something more expensive, because he has more disposable income than you (and probably a better traffic lawyer, too!). Harsh, I know, but it's the truth.

 

Your are headed down the right path, choosing a stock block. They're good for about 350, and, in some instances, more, depending on the tune. More than enough power for a DD.

 

TGV deletes are in your best interest, long-term. Cheap and easy to do, or, you can just buy them from one of the many places that do them -- I think Busted Finger Motorsports is the cheapest around. Granted, that's an option if you don't have access to, or don't feel confident with a die grinder.

 

What about the stock OCVs? They're fine unless you're racing, in which case, you need the modified ones from KillerB. At the very least, just replace yours when you do your rebuild.

 

As for the 5EAT, well, you can get the hexmods valvebody, or just go have it rebuilt at a trans shop -- those are about the only options. However, to date, none have broken as a result of too much power.

 

Looking forward to helping you along your journey. .

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Thanks for the insight and no, no hopes for the fastest legacy on the planet let alone the fastest car. I definitely dont have the time or money for something that involved. But I do like doing things only once so why not put bigger injectors? This way im only a tune away from more power. I was looking at the valve body mod but didn't see too many people that have used it yet so am a bit apprehensive. As far as the oil control valves I was more asking if it would be a good idea to replace them; im not worried about upgrading them thanks again for the input though. I think I've settled on bnr for a new turbo btw, the price is right and they seem to be great guys to work with.
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Thanks for the insight and no, no hopes for the fastest legacy on the planet let alone the fastest car. I definitely dont have the time or money for something that involved. But I do like doing things only once so why not put bigger injectors? This way im only a tune away from more power. I was looking at the valve body mod but didn't see too many people that have used it yet so am a bit apprehensive. As far as the oil control valves I was more asking if it would be a good idea to replace them; im not worried about upgrading them thanks again for the input though. I think I've settled on bnr for a new turbo btw, the price is right and they seem to be great guys to work with.

 

It's always a good idea to replace your OCVs when you rebuild.

 

The Hexmods VB seems to be a bit cost and time prohibitive for some. It's like $1000 down, then you install your new VB and ship your old one back for a core refund. Besides which, most of us are focused on making power, and there's only a short list of 5EAT rebuilds that have enough power to actually make use of the VB, though, it's a good upgrade for anyone, at any level. It will be on the list of things to do this year for me, as well.

 

As for injectors -- it's not hard to change them, nor convert to topfeed later. Remember, 1000cc is nearly twice the stock injector, and, if you're not going for big power, I think you should look at lower flow options, somewhere in the 700cc range. Going topfeed is definitely a priority, though.

 

Before you settle on BNR, you should start a conversation with JmP6889928, who is not only an LGT owner, but an active member here who contributes regularly. I'm running his custom VF40 with an 11-blade billet wheel capable of pushing 20+psi on a dual-plane balanced inconel shaft, with upgraded journal bearings that are far superior to OEM.

 

Boost comes on about 2200-2500, power is on well before 3k. Loads of torque.

 

Brian makes a great product, for sure. But for the money, I think you could do better. Wouldn't you rather support a member who's here and supports us? Wouldn't you rather support someone who's focused on our LGT community here and isn't just a businessman, but also a friend?

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I'm already making plans for a new turbo from jmp. I like to support a good member and great service he provides for our gt's. so if the motor comes out of the car soon just send the turbo you have to him during the down time you'll have.
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