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tie rod replacement diy


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tools necc: 19mm wheel socket, a hammer, needle nosed pliers, side cutters (dykes), adjustable wrench (a big one) and a few sockets of various sizes.

start with a subaru w/ a bad tie rod.http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/199069_10150123789402679_506927678_6216373_737812_n.jpg

 

lift and support the veh and remove the front wheels

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/200574_10150123790752679_506927678_6216388_4213807_n.jpg

 

remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tie rod end

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/199480_10150123792872679_506927678_6216405_8224534_n.jpg

 

this is what your bad inner tie rod will probably look like.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/188478_10150123793652679_506927678_6216414_4116771_n.jpg

 

using a hammer, beat on the steering knuckle where my finger is pointing until the end can be removed.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/200076_10150123795602679_506927678_6216428_3132003_n.jpg

 

fold back the boot on the inner tie rod and cut through the spring. (even if you plan on reusing the boot, a ziptie will replace it.)

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188911_10150123796797679_506927678_6216442_1921822_n.jpg

 

remove the boot and remove the inner tie rod end. (thats where the large adjustable comes in.) if you are replacing both the outer and inner tie rod dont worry about loosening the jam nut. if you are replacing one or the other, go ahead and loosen it or just stick the assembly in a vice when you have it off. (MUCHO IMPORTANTE!) MAKE SURE TO COUNT THE THREADS AS YOU SEPARATE THE TWO.http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/189691_10150123797932679_506927678_6216458_4949388_n.jpg

 

heres the new inner and boot kit. i got them from pep boys. was pretty cheap.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188877_10150123798767679_506927678_6216471_7824541_n.jpg

 

install the parts in the reverse. if you separated the end and are planning on reusing it or have a new one to install, reinstall it at the same amount of threads as you removed it. that will get you close. even though most aftermarket tie rods dont have the same amount of threads.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/197824_10150123799492679_506927678_6216477_7583976_n.jpg

 

heres what the final assembly looks like.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/196239_10150123800482679_506927678_6216487_2885245_n.jpg

 

finally, do an alignment. i have the luxury of having an alignment machine and the where-with-all of doing them my self.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/200378_10150123801222679_506927678_6216491_2814086_n.jpg

 

btw. if you have a pretty lowered car, be a nice guy and remove the front bumper. some alignment machines have to see across the car in the front and the bumper gets in the way. if your lucky, they wont need you to so you could prolly find that out when you call to set up an appointment for you're alignment. the tech should know whether you do or dont. happy repairs.

I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed.
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