Jumping / shake when turning

Drove 2 95 AWD Legacy Sedans yesterday and every one of them had a jumping shake when turning at slow speeds. The first one has visibly torn CVs on the front so I attributed the problem to bad axle shafts but the second one had new CVs in it. If I accelerated from a stop in a straight line there was no problem but when accelerating while turning either forward or backward it happens. It is most noticeable when entering and exiting a parking stall and turning sharply 90 degrees.

 

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

I have a similar problem with my 96 LGT. From basic investigation, it seems to be that the center diff is shot and is causing binding problems (one of the previous owners had mismatched tires and wheels on the car and ending up frying the diff/c-duty pack). That may be what's causing the jumping on those cars. How many miles are on them? If they're up in mileage, that may be one issue.

Center Differential? Is that the rear end or something in the transmission/transaxle?

 

 

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http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=104491&d=1314444680

 

#10

 

EDIT, were they auto's or MT's?

Auto

 

 

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do a search for "torque bind" and read up.

 

possible causes for the auto trans:

mis-matched tires, they need to all be exactly the same.

old dirty trans fluid, new fluid can sometimes eliminate the problem.

bad duty-c soleniod in the transfer clutch, this would cause a flashing AT Temp light at start up.

 

those are the top 3.

check the tires,

change the fluid,

look for the flashing light, also look for the AT Temp light when all the other dash lights come on.

 

manuals are different,

if it is not tires,

it is the ''viscous coupling'' a viscous limited slip coupling in the rear of the trans.

it is a sealed unit and replaceable,

if you can located a good used one.

 

your best source is a ''bad trans'' that did not have torque bind.

OK, so on this automatic transmission where is the dipstick, is there a filter I can change while doing these fluid exchanges? And how do I know if I have the 5MT or 4EAT tranny?

Wow well that explains the first 5mt swap i did lol I figured it was center dif but w good tranny sitting in my garage I slapped that in pretty much the same day. Wasn't gonna risk getting stranded somewhere or something

I believe it's number 9.

do a search for "torque bind" and read up.

 

possible causes for the auto trans:

mis-matched tires, they need to all be exactly the same.

old dirty trans fluid, new fluid can sometimes eliminate the problem.

bad duty-c soleniod in the transfer clutch, this would cause a flashing AT Temp light at start up.

 

I really don't mean to thread jack, but we're on the same subject. I had pretty bad torque bind on mine at low speeds after driving for awhile (4EAT 96 LGT). Replaced all four tires with a matching set, drained the trans and refilled, but still have the problem but not as bad… How hard is it to check and/or replace that solenoid?

I guess I forgot to mention in my op that I assumed the problem was bad CV axles so I bought one of the cars. After dealing with new brakes all around and one broken wheel stud on the rear I am back at this torque bind. I just installed a fuse in the right front and the torque bind went away. I just want to confirm this means that the solenoid is good and I have some actual binding in the internal clutches. I am off to autozone for a supply of dexron 3 fluid and we'll see how a few flushes does.

And how do I know if I have the 5MT or 4EAT tranny?

 

you are a real rookie.

 

the 5MT (5 speed manual transmission) has a clutch,

the 4eat is an automatic trans (a 4 speed electronic automatic transmission).

Yeah, I guess I am a real rookie. I thought there were two versions of the automatic.

 

 

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This weekend I am going to pull this motor so I can replace the oil separator plate. I am wondering if there is a torque converter drain plug that I can pull while the motor and tranny are apart? Also, since I am a rookie, am I correct in thinking there are some bolts bolting the flywheel to the torque converter that I will have to pull to get the motor loose?

 

 

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no and yes.

 

 

there is a trans oil pan drain plug,

but you do not need to drain anything in order to pull the engine.

 

and there are flex plate (think fly wheel) to torque converter bolts.

4 each and removing them can be challenging.

 

i suggest you read up before you move forward.

if you screw up the TC bolts or something like that

you could create a huge headache.

 

do a search,

 

engine removal

torque convert bolts

trans* removal

how to pull an engine

how to pull a trans*

 

or something similar.

Follow up concern: I just dropped the 4EAT pan and changed the filter. When I pulled the tube that crossed over the filter fluid started flowing from one of the holes and kept going for quite some time. I am thinking it created a siphon and drained either the torque converter or the trans cooler. After re-installing all the pieces I refilled the trans and I am at 9 quarts and the fluid is barely on the stick. I am concerned because the spec on the 4EAT page from this forum says it holds 10 quarts and only 2.6 quarts on a drain and refill. Did I make a mistake here?