SSpeed Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 So, I went to the track tonight, I got in one run... first run I grannied out of the hole, shifted from 3rd to 4th and heard a grind, weird... Pulled up again, first, second, can't get in to 3rd, can't get in to any gear... hit the break down lane... I've got good clutch pedal feel, but the clutch is not disengaging at all... the slave cylinder is pushing on the fork... It was a fun ride back home in rush hour traffic let me tell you.. I had to kill the car at every light and use the starter to get moving again, then rev match each gear... What the heck could have happened? * Good clutch pedal feel * Gears seem fine once you get in them * Slave cylinder is pushing on fork * Clutch doesn't disengage at all * If I kill the motor, put it in first, push in the clutch and start the car, the car lurches forward. The clutch is doing nothing despite good pedal feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09anderson Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 Syncroziner maybe... The gears are there but you can't find them without the synchronizer... Hope it's an easy fix for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 I thought that too at first, but the clutch would still disengage then right?... I have good pedal feel, but pedal to the floor it's like the clutch is not in at all, the car still keeps pulling forward... It's almost like something is wedged between the pressure plate and the flywheel..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09anderson Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 My buddy has a mustang that did the same exact thing lol...i know mustang blah but same issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Bad synchros wouldn't do this right? "If I kill the motor, put it in first, push in the clutch and start the car, the car lurches forward. The clutch is doing nothing despite good pedal feel." With bad synchros the clutch would still disengage? A throwout bearing wouldn't do that either? There is no noise at all, pedal feel is good, it's like something is wedged in there keeping the clutch engaged. Started yanking it all apart tonight, transmission fluid looked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 I think one of the springs may have dislodged and gotten stuck.... found this on another site with the same problem... I'll be pissed if I have to remove the tranny and find this... http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/attachments/99-03-7-3-transmission-problems/31088d1322576461-99-6-speed-clutch-wont-disengage-dscf0062a.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 You're gonna have to pull the tranny any way you look at it My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Yeah, I have it mostly ready to drop right now... I just bought a good clutch so crap like this wouldn't happen, not saying that's what it is yet.... I'll be really frustrated if this is what it is, but I guess it's better than catastrophic damage. I think I'll dump the ACT Streetlite and do a WRX flywheel while I'm at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I've had this exact same problem before as well. Turned out to be my clutch fork. It broke and I had to rev match everything as well. This was on my way to work though. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 All you're going to get is guesses, none of which will seen to be wrong or right until you pull the tranny off. I'm going with broken fork, fork slipped or something else displaced. Useless eh? Just get in there and get 'er done! Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted June 14, 2012 I Donated Share Posted June 14, 2012 Bent / damaged / broken fork. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 I have to head to Harbor Freight for their $80 tranny jack first... I wondered about the bent fork, but I wouldn't have good pedal feel then would I? The pedal almost feels stiffer than normal. Just guesses, you're right, will post pics when I figure it out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 If you get the $80 jack, make sure you can get the car at least 2ft off the ground. The tranny needs 18" and the jack needs about 6". I have that jack and did my tranny last year. Twice. I also used the jack for the rear diff. Twice. I used the 6 ton jack stands because I had them, if you don't, use that moeny to buy the next tranny up in price. It needs less clearance. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Thanks for that advice, was wondering how much height I'd need.. 2 feet measured where? 2 feet additional jacked or 2 feet total? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Figure 24" under the lowest part of the frame. I was able to put the tranny on the jack outside the car then snake it under the engine near the passenger side LCA. You'll figure it out when it's time. Also I used a board and a piece of oak flooring to hold the engine tilted back off the radiator fans. The engine wants to fall forward with the tranny off. Do you have pry bays to pry the tranny off the guide pins, that's the hardest part. My tranny has been outa number of times so it slide off them easy. If yours has never been out, it can be a PITA. Also use anti-seize compound on the nuts and bolts going back together. Spray everything with PB Blaster before try and break them loose. Before you bolt the tranny up going back in, MAKE SURE the CLUTCH FORK is still up high on the PIVOT ball. Trust me on that one... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 It was out just last year so hopefully it hasn't seized up again... I was wondering how to keep the engine from tilting, I thought about making a modified pitch stop that I could bolt somewhere on the engine. Man, I am not looking forward to this, especially getting it back on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I did mine by myself, if you have some talent it's not that hard. I used a board to fit across both fans so it spread the force out over a larger area. That seemed to tilt the engine back far enough, just remember to remove them before you bolt the crossmember to the chassis. I did pull both axles both I removed the tranny. I wonder if you can just leave them in the hubs and slide them out of the tranny as you pull it back and lower it. That's how you do the rear diff. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 A similar thing happened to me except that the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor. Ended up to be a broken fork. That was on a 99 OB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 ^^ That's what I expected if it was a broken or damaged fork, my clutch feels normal. I'm guessing one of the springs popped and is stuck between the flywheel and friction disc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Man, I'm having a hell of a time with the driver's side ball joint... I first tried getting the joint out of the shoulder, but it's stuck... so then I tried getting it out of the control arm with a ball joint removal tool and that's not going either. Several whacks on the arm itself with a mini sledge to try and free it. I'm going nuts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenspeed Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 I did the exact same thing at a rally x, but eventually just forced the bitch out of gear. Snapped all 3 spring retainers in my clutch and drove it home about 5 miles before one finally broke off entirely and she was down for the count the same way yours was... all in on broken clutch disc :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenspeed Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Man, I'm having a hell of a time with the driver's side ball joint... I first tried getting the joint out of the shoulder, but it's stuck... so then I tried getting it out of the control arm with a ball joint removal tool and that's not going either. Several whacks on the arm itself with a mini sledge to try and free it. I'm going nuts... Mark your camber bolt on your strut and just take the strut down to pull the axle...no reason to start breaking things Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Good idea, that was my next step, I'm being gentle with the BFH... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 Sheesh, I have to post pictures about what I found.. no one would believe me otherwise.... It was definitely the clutch itself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/clutch/ No one to blame but me for this by the looks of these pics... the friction disc was melted to the flywheel... the flywheel side of the friction disc turned a blue color from apparent heat... My one run down the track felt like the car was really struggling, but the logs looked ok, apparently the clutch was slipping terribly... Intake temps were around 160deg as I rolled down to the start, outside temp was 95deg. This looks to come fully from slipping though... The clutch is a SouthBend stage 3 organic, supposedly intended for daily use up to 400 ft. lbs. http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/clutch/clutchgrenade005.jpg http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/clutch/clutchgrenade007.jpg http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/clutch/clutchgrenade008.jpg http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/clutch/clutchgrenade003.jpg And my pitch stop special tool... http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/clutch/clutchgrenade010.jpg I couldn't find my Torx Plus 50, so I went and bought one. It then broke, so the flywheel is still on until I find another one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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