Sebastian Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Stage 2 5EAT Questions: 1. How big a difference is there with a 5eat between stage 1 and a "poor man's" stage 2 protune? (STI up, gutted dp, probably Infamous1 tune) 2. How do the 5eats without IPT upgrades hold up under Stage 2? (assuming tranny cooler is installed) I seldom brake torque, autocross about 5 times a year, love mountain twisties, and car is a DD. I would really like to hear from some 5eat owners who have been stage 2 for awhile without IPT upgrades. 3. Other than IPT upgrades and tranny cooler, what else can be done to preserve the tranny? Also, does the tranny filter need to be changed after 60k? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPjeep2002 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 1. Not much difference, but can feel it 2. certain ppl on here ar running 350+ to the wheels on the 5EAT and it hold up fine. 3. tender loving care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loopless Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 I've done 77K without IPT and I am Stage 2 since 30K. I never brake torque or autocross. 5EAT working the same as it was when new. I have changed fluid every 30K. Although I have upgrade fever and I thinking about doing the IPT valve body upgrade to sharpen up shifts - the painfully slow slurring changes have always been pretty annoying. At Stage 2 you can hit the rev-limiter when it changes 1-2 in full automode Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 My experience has been that Stage 1 and Stage 2 were night and day. Tranny should be fine with your level of mods depending on the tune. Get a tranny cooler installed, possibly a RalliteK tranny mount and I would do ATF drains and refills every 20K miles using OEM ATF. If you experience sloppy shifts at redline and/or banging the rev limiter because the transmission doesn't shift fast enough, you are looking at an IPT valve body. If this is not the case for you, you should be OK. I went Stage 2 in June 2008 at 56K miles using a Cobb OTS map pushing a tad over 15PSI. In Sept of that year I switched over to a PDX Stage 2 map pushing 18-18.4PSI of boost. I got my IPT valve body in April this year at 66K miles. So I ran Stage 2 with just a tranny cooler and a tranny mount for 10K miles. Tranny has been fine but for me I could tell it was struggling to clamp all that torque when shifting gears and I was even banging the rev limiter going from 1st to 2nd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvagnone Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 im stg 2 but not poor man ( cobb dp, invidia uppipe, ect.) no ipt but i have the trucool 4454. big difference between stg 1 and 2. tranny feels great with no problems and i have well over 60k, 35k with stg 2. probably do the ipt when money is available Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Habitual Line Stepper Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 I was never stg1, i had the IPT VB before i went stg.2. So i guess all i can comment about is how to preserve your tranny. Keep tabs on your ATF and make sure you use the good stuff. Launching, tracking, and anything that wouldnt be considered daily driving you do at your own risk. "I for one do not doubt you, dude. Your car is fast and an internet legend." -Gire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 Is auto crossing really that hard on the tranny? The times I've done it there wasn't much shifting involved, pretty much get into 2nd and leave it there, maybe downshift for one box turn.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Habitual Line Stepper Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Is auto crossing really that hard on the tranny? The times I've done it there wasn't much shifting involved, pretty much get into 2nd and leave it there, maybe downshift for one box turn.. I dunno, but i'm sure its gotto be harder on the tranny than when you drive it around town. "I for one do not doubt you, dude. Your car is fast and an internet legend." -Gire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockle3 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 i'm no guru but im pretty sure its not the shifting that kills it your transmission puts all the power you make from the engine to the floor (through the clutch, driveshaft blah blah blah). when youre on and off aggressively your whole drivetrain, including the transmission gets shocked. imagine trying to push out 50 lbs and pulling it back constantly and repetitively with your arms. thats kinda how it is, your trans will tire out and go kaploot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Guess I should chime in here. I'm almost @ 60K and have been Stg. II+ (Cobb UP DP, EL Headers, etc)for 30K+... I have a trucool 4454 and the Rallitek street mount. I have only noticed issues with the 5EAT when really hammering on the car (redline shifts 1-2, 2-3)...but rarely hit rev limiter even still. I think as long as you change fluids regularly and don't torque brake, you should be fine... I definitely want the IPT VB but might just find a cheap spare tranny and begin the process of building it up as I plan to keep the car that long...then it allows for FAR more powah down the road... Just my .02... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Is auto crossing really that hard on the tranny? The times I've done it there wasn't much shifting involved, pretty much get into 2nd and leave it there, maybe downshift for one box turn.. As it's been already said, technically, depending on the tune, you will only be seeing around 13PSI at redline anyway on Stage 2 which I believe was the target boost for the typical OTS vendor Stage 1 map. Which means the tranny should have no problem clamping down that power. However, even though you are not shifting, there is a great amount of heat generated by the torque converter. Since you autocross, I would put this on the absolute must mod list: -a generous tranny cooler (TryCool 4452-sized at the very least) -RalliteK tranny mount -Whiteline rear diff bushings These will basically hold the transmission in place instead of letting it flop around. This means that there should be less shock going into it when you modulate throttle AND keep it better in alignment with the crankshaft. It should prevent stripping gears which is also a concern. Your clutchpacks may look like new, but your tranny will still be toast if you strip a gear, especially the rear drive one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.