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awd help yes again but little diffrent


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Hi everyone.my name is joe and I'm from chicago.this is my first post on here and I've been lurking around trying to find help without post a thread or anything but its not going to well.

Well anyways I bought a 95 legacy ls awd 2.2 4spd auto and having a issue with my awd system.now let me explain this

 

No fwd fuse is not inserted in the fuse holder by passanger firewall.when inserted the light comes on the dash

No binding of anysort or any noise from trans.

Fluid was changed 4x and it has helped shifting but that's it

When car is on jacks and in d all 4 wheels spin.on pavement only fronts spin

No 16 flashs from the at light.when started everything goes away

Car drives perfectly fine on fwd mode and it has 153k

 

What gives?I think its the clutchs that took a crap and are slipping under load

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Our AWD systems are 90/10 bias until more power is needed in the rear.

If you really want to check if the status of the AWD on a lift, put the lever into 1 & 2.

(Don't know why I'm telling you to test the AWD system without a load since that's bad.)

Those gears are effectively 4x4 & all tires should spin equally.

Usually when our systems have a problem, they'll slowly or quickly bind.

If you're driving it in AWD on the road & nothing feels like it's slipping or binding, you're good.

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Our AWD systems are 90/10 bias until more power is needed in the rear.

If you really want to check if the status of the AWD on a lift, put the lever into 1 & 2.

(Don't know why I'm telling you to test the AWD system without a load since that's bad.)

Those gears are effectively 4x4 & all tires should spin equally.

Usually when our systems have a problem, they'll slowly or quickly bind.

If you're driving it in AWD on the road & nothing feels like it's slipping or binding, you're good.

 

Couldn't of said it better. Your car is just fine

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Our AWD systems are 90/10 bias until more power is needed in the rear.

If you really want to check if the status of the AWD on a lift, put the lever into 1 & 2.

(Don't know why I'm telling you to test the AWD system without a load since that's bad.)

Those gears are effectively 4x4 & all tires should spin equally.

Usually when our systems have a problem, they'll slowly or quickly bind.

If you're driving it in AWD on the road & nothing feels like it's slipping or binding, you're good.

 

That's the thing.it spins the front tires all day long.dry or wet it never has traction unless I let go of the peddle when accelerating.2 ,works fine and accelerates in 2nd with minimal wheelbspin.in 1 or d it blows the front tires on the snow as if the car had 500hp.tires are only a few months old.I'd say 4months if that

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the clutch dics in the transfer clutch are shot. they do not have enough grip to drive the rear wheels under load.

 

try this, unplug the TCU under the dash. this will put the car in ''limp'' mode and you will have only 3rd gear plus reverse. it should also cause binding in slow tight turns. the front and rear wheels will be ''locked'' and will have to turn at the EXACT same speed.

 

no binding means no grip in the clutch discs.

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well i contacted aamco and they are having a special on free transmission checkups.so il take it in and see if it costs me an arm and an leg to replace.i figured it might of been the clutchs as im the 3rd owner and the car was not maintaned at all
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i do not recommend aamco. there are too many horror stories where the customer is coerced into a rebuilt when it was not actually needed. but your results may vary.

 

i took a dodge pick in there years ago, and asked for it to be diagnosed for a flat fee. they said itr needed a rebuild and quoted a price. i could not afford the price , plus i wanted a second opinion. i asked for my truck back. their response floored me. they said the trans was in pieces on the work bench and that i would have to tow it.

i told them to either return my truck as it was when i brought it in or i was calling the police. and they did, 20 minutes later. this is not an isolated case.

 

the transfer clutch rebuild at the dealer runs about $1000, i hear.

 

if you do not have a trusted shop / subaru shop you frequent, i would probably spend $100 at the dealer to see what was wrong and get a repair quote. then you can shop around and see who , where, when, or if you want to repair it.

 

good luck.

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Ive had a few of my friends replace there valve bodies on the 95 ,jeeps as it was having issues accerlatingand shifting and aamco always did the job well.I told them over the phone when I called not to open the trans or anything unless I say its a go.we shall see how it turns out today.thanks for your advice and responses.I greatly appreciate it
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ask them how much to swap in a used trans?

 

call the dealer and ask for a price.

 

find an independent shop. a decent mechanic should be able to do it. with the trans in the car. parts less than $500, labor less than $500.

 

or buy a known good used extension housing and just swap that in. i think i have one from a 95 bad trans (no reverse), not sure about the miles.

 

go to http://www.car-part.com for a used trans. put in your zip and sort by distance. shipping is expensive, ~$150.00.

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