JJay03 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Pulled the engine out today to do the head gaskets. It looks like someone has had it out before and replaced the oil separator on the back and done the timing belt. Almost looks like the block is leaking a bit from the center and the wrist pin access cover. What bothers me the most is the timing belt the arrow on the crank gear does not point strait up and the belt does not have lines on it. The pass side intake cam also looks a tooth off. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy028.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy032-1.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy033.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy035-1.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy037.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy038.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Just realign belt. No fatal error there.Just use tooth count for reinstall if you do not replace. There is an O ring in the access plate that has probably gone bad. Might as well replace the rear main. It will only get worse. Note how far the original is in,keep that depth for new. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 For the rear main I would need the tool to install it. The leak almost looks to be coming from above and below the rear main. So the intake may be off one tooth but doesnt the arrow on the crank gear suppose to point up. I need to make sure its on TDC. Ill be getting a new belt even tho that 1 looks ok I dont know how old it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Ok I see the correct mark for the crank gear now but the intake cam is def a tooth off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Never arrows. Hash marks for Subarus. We don't use TDC to install belts. 4 in pvc will work as a seater. Make sure the seal is oiled and also inside the case. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Your rear main seal doesn't appear to be leaking very much, if at all. I would be worried if it was weeping, but yours doesn't look too bad. In fact, some would tell you to leave it alone because replacing it runs the risk of an incorrect install which could potentially leak worse than what you are dealing with. However, replacing it is not impossible, and you don't need the subaru special installation tool to do so. You can buy a piece of PVC pipe that is the correct diameter and tap it in. If you have any high spots you can spot tap them in with a 1/4" drive socket extension. If you don't feel comfortable installing yourself take the block down to the dealership and have them do it for about $50. It's like installing a cam seal, only bigger. If it was my engine I would replace it just for peace of mind. But I'm nuts. Your oil separator plate is not the latest design and does not appear to be leaking, so you are probably good with leaving it. But your engine is out, a new plate is $35, and now it the time to replace it if you're going to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 So the intake may be off one tooth but doesnt the arrow on the crank gear suppose to point up. Ignore the arrow on the crank gear. What you want to pay attention to is the hash mark on the outer tooth of the crank gear. That hash mark is what you use to align the belt. In the pic you posted you can clearly see the hash mark pointing straight upwards. That is the correct placement. Here is a pic of a correct alignment when hanging the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Yeah I noticed the hash mark afterwards. This thing is gonna drain my wallet with all these parts lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Hash marks can be lined up on the crank but it can still be 360 out. Not sure how else you could tell except see if it is on tdc. If you are just swapping belts thats fine as long as you dont move things but if your building a new engine you better be sure. Never arrows. Hash marks for Subarus. We don't use TDC to install belts. 4 in pvc will work as a seater. Make sure the seal is oiled and also inside the case. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Hash marks can be lined up on the crank but it can still be 360 out. impossible on a subaru. the crank cannot be 360 degrees out. if the crank is on the hash mark, then it is right. if the cams are on the hash marks then they are right. hang the belt and double check before releasing the tensioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Re: oil pump and rear main seal installation: from http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/just-purchased-98-lgt-wagon-coolant-positive-hydrocarbons-151027p4.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3235023&postcount=51 I replaced the oil pump. The old one looked okay but had a loose screw on the back :/ (enlarged to show texture): http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4391 Carefully removed old and installed new rear main seal with premium Subaru rear main seal installer special tool: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4392 New rear main seal. Seems straight enough and at proper depth: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4393 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Re: Timing belt installation: I studied the video below provided by All Wheel Drive Auto in Seattle: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1PunROR3VU&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - Subaru timing belt installation[/ame] From: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3237682&postcount=54 Timing belt installed: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4405 I've yet to pull the "grenade" pin, just in case I've forgotten something and have to backtrack: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=796&pictureid=4406 Torquing the cam sprockets was a hassle but I managed it using the old timing belt. Installing the new timing belt was a cinch after studying the following video provided by http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-timing-belt-idlers-explained/ Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Awesome thanks for the vids. I got the engine apart a bit more today. Im stuck for now till I get another 14mm 12point socket I broke the only one I had trying to get the head bolts loose. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy047.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy045.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy048.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 I just pulled the oil pump off someone made a mess with the rtv had it all over. Looked like the same red stuff they used on the oil separator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Anaerobic sealant works the best as long as you don't have to fill big gaps. A little goes a long way and it doesn't set up in air. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Anyone know the part numbers for the oil pump bolts and the water pump bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Oil pump bolts - No. 8007 06500, Name: Bolt 6x26x20. Water pump bolts - No. 8001 06930, Name: Bolt 6x40x20. Did you lose one or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Mine are just nasty and I rather get new ones if they arent too expensive. Looks like they are not listed on subarupartsforyou. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Yeah, I spent many hours scrubbing bolts with a wire brush and it sucks. You can put them in a plastic jug with solvent (not gasoline ) and that helps. You'll probably have to go the dealership to get them but idk for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 So my part list is up to $372 dollars and I still need to order the timing kit and take my heads to the machine shop. I was also going to send the injectors out to be cleaned and tested. Anyone know a good place for that? I called the dealer and they said they always reuse head bolts hmm. Oh the coolant pipe that goes on top the block I think it takes 2 o-rings does anyone know those part numbers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 The water cross over pipe o-rings: no. 8069 33010, name O ring 33.7x3.5. When you install them be careful when you tighten the bolts down so you don't pinch the o-ring between the pipe and mating surface on the block. The new o-rings kind of want to pop out of their slot. You'll probably be fine reusing your head bolts, but it will have to be your call. I replaced mine because I am paranoid, lol. But as long as you make sure they are clean, oil them properly, and torque them to specs they should go in with no problems. Idk about the injectors though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Cool thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 See: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ and :http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ for future ref. Head bolts are reused, unless you screwed one up taking it out(ie stripped head). O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Ok I got the driver side head off and sob were those bolts tight. I had a huge ass breaker bar and I was picking up the whole engine stand. Ive taken out head bolts from BB chevy engines and small blocks and never had them this tough. Anyway the bottom left bolt was hard to take out the whole way and the threads are all junked up with aluminum. I can get a bolt to start and thread in but its not smooth at all. Trying to figure out how I can clean the threads up. I really hope I can get a bolt to torque back down. I was surprised how clean the engine is inside tho. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy049.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 You may have been doing it wrong. You break each loose about 90 deg before trying to remove. Make sure you follow install procedures. A looong tap or way to extend a std one is needed to chase threads. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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