whos_that_guy Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh265/SayingSorry1988/subarufuckup001.jpg so i was trying to change out control arms since the one in mine is bent from when it was crashed but anyways the bolt stripped and now i cant get it off so i just wanna replace the whole part itself but i dont know the name of it. can anyone help? also so i dont make another post, im selling this bumper since it wont fit on mine cause i have a outback support frame and i really dont wanna cut it up to make it fit, so just best offer, its almost done, needs minor body work. rather have a someone around my area pick it up or u can figure out shipping. im in spring hill, fl http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh265/SayingSorry1988/subarufuckup002.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh265/SayingSorry1988/subarufuckup003.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worknlikeadog Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 i would love the bumper but too far...im in PA...as for the part i think its the steering knuckle but dont quote me to that. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmb2485 Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 knuckle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whos_that_guy Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 thanks guys, im gonna try to figure out another way to get this bolt out cuz i really dont want to spend another $130 for a part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benders Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 What bolt exactly is it that stripped in the pic? Could you cut the head of the bolt off with a sawz-all and drill out the bolt, or just drill it out?? I had to do that with a bolt that connects the strut to the lower control arm on an Integra I had. It was all rusted seized and I broke the head off the bolt, so I cut the other side off and spent the next 6 hours drilling it out..... Brand new drill bits, and they were tearing up left and right. I was using plenty of lube and they were not cheap bits, they were the good stuff. I ended up killing off almost 20 drill bits and 6 hours replacing one bolt....... Off topic, sorry. SO can you drill it out maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whos_that_guy Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 its the bolt above the ball joint, and it seems to be the kind that screws into the knuckle o.o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guest user Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Help me out here,which bolt/nut is stripped? I see the lower ball joint nut is just about off, and the bolt that retains the ball joint into the knuckle looks to be damaged. Are either one of these the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Take the knuckle off the car, give it to a machine shop to remove the bolt if you cannot remove it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whos_that_guy Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 the bolt to the ball joint is stripped, if i can get it out, then the new ball joint comes with that bolt, i marked it in the pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 If it is just the head that is stripped, try getting a set of damaged bolt removing sockets, throw it on an impact, and it should free that sucker right up. Taking the knuckle off would by my last resort. I've had my issues with that bolt as well. I've actually snapped the head clear off of one before. That wasn't any fun. Once you get that bolt out, you may need a large pry bar or a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Sometimes they fuse into each other pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 +1 easy out set, some kind of bolt extractor, anything under $20 should get the job done for you. just be patient and do it right, unless you want to be like me and go through bolts like pizza or something (i've learned ). simple enough, and saves you the frustration and money of getting a new knuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guest user Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Okay. Before using any stripped bolt removal tools, find a standard 1/2" drive SAE 6 point socket that's just a little small for the bolt head and a breaker bar. Sears sockets are the best because if you destroy it,you can get a new one for free. Spray the area with a good grade of penetrating oil, not WD40! Surely someone you know has a small propane torch you can use if you don't have one. Tap the socket onto the bolt head...alright,pound that sucker on if you have too. Make sure you position the socket so you can get the breaker bar on it. Heat the area the bolt goes through. You do not need to make it red hot by any means.A little head goes a long way. While heating one end,spray more oil on the other to try and draw it in. This heating should take a good 10 minutes with a small propane torch because of the mass of the part. Get one side heated, then the other,then try and keep both ends hot. Then try moving the bolt. Go in both directions and do not force it. You need to feel the difference in the bolt moving and its starting to break off. If it won't move at first,add more heat and try again. It will come out. That car isn't that rusted. Trick is heat and moving in both directions to free the bolt. If it stops or gets hard to turn when removing,spray some oil and tighten it a few turns,then try backing it out again. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whos_that_guy Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 done and replace, but now my subaru sits one side higher than the other o.o think this will go down as the rubber settles in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guest user Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 What all did you replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whos_that_guy Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 ball joint and lower control arm since it was bent when it was stolen http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh265/SayingSorry1988/vf003.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh265/SayingSorry1988/vf004.jpg ball joint which was badly rusted in http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh265/SayingSorry1988/vf005.jpg bent part of the control arm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reuben Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Interesting, we call those hubs here. Never ever heard of a knuckle. And did you replace the ball joint? they are like $10 each. Also if that sorta S-Shape mount survived, keep it, those are def not so cheap new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whos_that_guy Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 $10 there $50 something here, i had to get the one that came with the bolt that stripped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ineedmorepsi Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Yeah the whole part he highlighted is called a knuckle (which is iron) and the hub(steel) is what connects to the knuckle which contains the wheel bearings, wheel studs, etc. I'm glad when I had to buy a front set the yard considered them hubs instead because on their price list. Knuckles costs like $30 more each than hubs. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guest user Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 Have you checked for frame damage? Was the other side damaged at all? You may need to have it checked by someone that really knows how to run an alignment machine. The damage to that arm is pretty bad.Those arms believe it or not, do not bend easily. There's a good chance something else is bent.which would account for the different ride height. Or the bushings on the other side are really worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whos_that_guy Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 first thing i did when it was running again, the frame is straight and when i went to have a alignment done they found the arm bent, damn assholes wanted $200 for the part when i got it for $55 off ebay and the side went down a bit, i think once i drive it around it will go down more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNG_Kirby Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 A little head goes a long way.QUOTE] Sorry I couldn't help myself. It's been such a good day, and this just made it so much better. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbt299 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 My Control arm was bent just like yours in the snow earlier in the week... is it a hard job to replace it? i buying the control arm part tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I hit a median that was hidden by the snow one night in my wagon and just about FOLDED my control arm. It was nasty. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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