Newbie motor build

I have always been a turbo subie fan and have now picked up a 05 L gt with a Auto. I'm getting the car with a blown turbo and is a very small amount of metal in the oil. From what I have been told is that the whole motor and turbo need to be replaced. The questions I have are

 

1. Can I just rebuild the motor and maybe bore and sleeve it?

 

2. just flush it and put a new turbo on it?

 

3. If I do build a new motor how much HP can the auto trans handle.

 

If I can get away with just a rebuild then I would like to try to get around 500-600 hp out of it.

Good luck getting that kind of power with a 5eat

If I can get away with just a rebuild then I would like to try to get around 500-600 hp out of it.

 

 

 

 

:lol:

I've got $5k into my tranny and supposedly its good for 450whp.

I'm not even close to making that, nor do I ever plan to as this is a daily driver.

 

I sold my turbo to a guy who had his blow and everybody thought his engine was a goner, but he just reported in recently that all was well. He meticulously flushed the oil system though rather than just throwing the turbo on it. He was the exception to the rule.

 

Original post:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/possible-blown-turbo-131354.html?t=131354&highlight=rlineberg

Latest post:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-job-168398.html?p=3516402#post3516402

 

 

 

That much power is a very lofty aspiration for a daily driver. Besides what you spend to get there, plan on having a contingency fund with enough money to replace both the motor and the transmission, perhaps the center diffs, etc.

 

I would set my sights more realistically like around 320whp as going beyond that big ticket items will break. Also look into the F1 Valve Body by Hexamods on this forum. Do a little more research and plan out what you want to do, and then plan on spending 20% - 50% more than you think, while still keeping some dry powder.

3. If I do build a new motor how much HP can the auto trans handle.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/much-horsepower-can-5eat-withstandi-129762.html

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/whats-max-hp-torque-5eat-can-handlei-1132.html

 

If I can get away with just a rebuild then I would like to try to get around 500-600 hp out of it.

 

 

Ken Block 2006 STI = 530 WHP

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rs-jAImScms]Ken Block Gymkhana Practice - YouTube[/ame]

Note - 00:23

 

Crawford Performance... Better be ready to spend some serious cash

http://store.crawfordperformance.com/store/categories/262

 

See post #6:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/attn-new-members-look-here-first-67940.html

Was thinking of going with one of these. This car will not be my daily and I have foot issues that make going with the auto the better choice for me. The dealer was talking around $10,000 for the stock rebuild so kinda putting my budget around there.

I have always been a turbo subie fan and have now picked up a 05 L gt with a Auto. I'm getting the car with a blown turbo and is a very small amount of metal in the oil. From what I have been told is that the whole motor and turbo need to be replaced. The questions I have are

 

1. Can I just rebuild the motor and maybe bore and sleeve it?

 

2. just flush it and put a new turbo on it?

 

3. If I do build a new motor how much HP can the auto trans handle.

 

If I can get away with just a rebuild then I would like to try to get around 500-600 hp out of it.

 

are you 17 years old ?

 

have you ever driven a 600 hp car before ?

Was thinking of going with one of these. This car will not be my daily and I have foot issues that make going with the auto the better choice for me. The dealer was talking around $10,000 for the stock rebuild so kinda putting my budget around there.

 

I'd recommend finding another dealer.

 

600hp is a little on the wimpy side, but to each his own.

http://www.speedfactoryracing.net/contact.php

 

Here, call these guy's and see what they can do for you. I know they are mainly Honda guy's but I'm sure they must work on other cars too or can send you in the right direction.

 

When you call them ask for James, aka JFK78 tell him the old guy from CT with the Yellow Hatch single cam sent you.

 

You can have someone else do your build besides the dealer for less money and have better outcome for what your looking for.

 

Read the forums here and you'll learn a lot.

So I now have the car back on the road. After talking to a bunch of people I have decided to stay stock with the motor. I have done 4 oil changes (with magnets on the drain plug) and have not found any metal in the oil. also have changed out the filter each time. I put a Vf46 on it and a catless down pipe( the cat was full of oil and didn't wan to wait for it to burn off) I have replaced all the oil and cooling lines to the turbo and replaced the bango bolt with new filter. I have got around 180 miles on the car with no issues and then got a check engine light with flashing cruise, ran a scan and got a p0420. low emissions on bank 1. cleared the code and drove another 30-40 miles and got the light again. p0420 and forget the other number but it was a mis fire on cyl. 1. car has 105,000 miles on it. thinking plugs but they dont look fun to do. any other advice?

lol u put an aftermarket DP on your car and didnt get it tuned? You had aspirations of 500hp and missed this basic step? Also if u had metal in ur oil before due to a blown turbo or whatever not all metal in ur engine is ferrous (picked up by a magnet), there is aluminum in there and it could still be in there despite your magent (aluminum is non-ferrous or not magnetic).

any other advice?

 

Get a GT-R instead. It's more feasible and easier than what you are trying to do.

lol u put an aftermarket DP on your car and didnt get it tuned? You had aspirations of 500hp and missed this basic step? Also if u had metal in ur oil before due to a blown turbo or whatever not all metal in ur engine is ferrous (picked up by a magnet), there is aluminum in there and it could still be in there despite your magent (aluminum is non-ferrous or not magnetic).

 

 

exactly, that is why stock drain plugs are not magnets like a tranny plug and diff plug.

So I now have the car back on the road. After talking to a bunch of people I have decided to stay stock with the motor. I have done 4 oil changes (with magnets on the drain plug) and have not found any metal in the oil. also have changed out the filter each time. I put a Vf46 on it and a catless down pipe( the cat was full of oil and didn't wan to wait for it to burn off) I have replaced all the oil and cooling lines to the turbo and replaced the bango bolt with new filter. I have got around 180 miles on the car with no issues and then got a check engine light with flashing cruise, ran a scan and got a p0420. low emissions on bank 1. cleared the code and drove another 30-40 miles and got the light again. p0420 and forget the other number but it was a mis fire on cyl. 1. car has 105,000 miles on it. thinking plugs but they dont look fun to do. any other advice?

 

 

you do understand you need a tune for that mod, right? you'll continue to get the code. you'll be on your way to getting yet another engine once you blow through a piston

 

 

 

and you wanted 5-600hp and don't even know how to manage a basic stage 2 setup

Guess I’m asking the wrong question. I figure the P0420 is from needing the tune and that is in the plans. I’m not looking to get the 5-600HP out of this motor. Where ever it is at is fine and down the road I will be getting a new block and building it, but that will be down the road. The question is if the misfire is maybe a bad plug, coil pack, or maybe a fuel injector. I will be getting the tune done but would like to get the demon’s out before I spend the money on the tune and have to redo it. As far as the motor I have got no smoke out the pipes and was told by a Subaru shop that it is only the steel that I need to worry about. Car is running great after 50 more miles last night and this morning with no CEL. Time for the Tune, or should I change out the plugs and do a leak down and then tune. Sorry if I’m sounding new at this but I am.

And I have yet to find ANY metal in the oil. I had used the magnet on the 3rd oil change , but had also checked the oil in the drain pan (ran the oil threw a white rag) and in all 3 filters. To me it looks like the dealer was just trying to make some money. From what I have found was the shaft in the turbo broke and the wheel on the exhaust side was just sitting there when I pulled the turbo off. The cat in the stock down pipe was full of oil and it was dripping out when I pulled it off. Also the IC had a lot of oil in it. I set the IC on its side for 3 days and wiped it out with a rag.

first of all ur car is most likely not running fine...its not tuned. do not drive it in boost, shift at low rpms or better yet drive as little as possible. Did you have the CEL before you put the DP on? Before you do ANYTHING else to your car do all the preventative maintenance you can possibly do. Change all fluids, do your leak down or compression test have your oil tested for particulates to ensure its clean regardless of what the subaru tech says. Metal is metal...and metal in ur oil is not good. Even if its down the road...you got to read about building motors...im no expert but its time consuming and expensive

And I have yet to find ANY metal in the oil. I had used the magnet on the 3rd oil change , but had also checked the oil in the drain pan (ran the oil threw a white rag) and in all 3 filters. To me it looks like the dealer was just trying to make some money. From what I have found was the shaft in the turbo broke and the wheel on the exhaust side was just sitting there when I pulled the turbo off. The cat in the stock down pipe was full of oil and it was dripping out when I pulled it off. Also the IC had a lot of oil in it. I set the IC on its side for 3 days and wiped it out with a rag.

 

 

 

the metal we're talking about is not ferrous.

 

meaning.

 

 

a magnet will not catch it.

there are non magnetic metals?

 

You and rob are champion for helping out.

ive done my due diligence.....so now it time for the popcorn nothing more can be said here

Update. Did a leak down on 2 and 4 with no leak at all. Still want to do compression test. Got the vag-com cable and loaded a "safe" so I'm told tune with eucflash. Put new plugs in 2&4. Switched coils and have put 50 miles on with no code yet. Have been told to be looking for copper in the oil that will "eat" the crank bearings. Bought a boost gauge, k&n and Catless up pipe. Will install on Monday then get the new tune file to load.

 

Going the right way? Thinking of pulling oil pan but looks like APITA. Any tips on pulling the pan?

New plugs on 1&3 on Monday with down pipe!

I think with an FP HTA Black, mbc, and trans cooler, as long as you were using Mobil1, could make a solid 500-600hp...