Cool Article about the 05 SCCA wagons floating around still.. :)

I wonder if they ran the stock master cylinder and booster originally as well?

I don't know exactly when and what anything was done. They lost the build sheet. When you looked at it, what master cylinder/booster do you think it has now?

Also I'm pretty sure the front brake ducts were installed from the first. Thta's how the stock calipers/rotors were able to survive, it wasn't just race pads.

I've raced at Mission Raceway in Abbotsford, you ever get over there? I'm probably not going this year, it's more of a Miata track, very short straights, very hard on the brakes because they never get a chance to cool off, lots of tight corners. Not really a a track I'd like to race.

 

I do love Calgary, Edmonton, Banff, and Saskatoon. I've had great times in all those places!

No I haven't been yet, I live in Edmonton, furthest west Ive been is to Revelstoke, BC.

Cleaned up the car for the racing this weekend. New brake pads on the fronts, CL RC6. I've had good luck with CL pads on my other cars, hoping they do well here too. If you've never heard of CL pads it's worth checking them out. I get mine at Essex.

The front tires are rubbing on the K-Sports coilovers. I am installing a 5mm spacer to solve that issue.

Enabled flat footing shifting in the Cobb Accessport, we'll see if I can get used to that!

Going to PSI in Portland on Friday for official Dynojet AWD certs at 14, 15, 16 psi. In anticipation of probably using the 15 psi map I'm pulling 90 lbs of ballast out of the car.

While I'm in Portland I'll go over to Cindi and Fred Lux's place to get a NASA Tech done. I'd like to go the Western Nationals in PTB/TTB this fall, if possible. http://www.cindilux.com/

If you're near PIR come by!

From watching your videos/data feed, more brake doesn't seem to be your problem. They actually sound like they are not heating up and never get into their ideal temp range.

I used Hawk DTC70 (front) / DTC60 (rear) with great success, however, my brake disc temps were averaging 1300 degrees (measuring in paddock). We (suspension tuner & I) figured ducting would take that down to 800 or less. My tech called your PO's tech and they said 600-800 was a normal temp for them.

Maybe try a lower temp pad? The initial bite is not so important as a consistent feel thru the range. With the pads I ran, I was able to unload the rear with very little effort (which made turn in for tight turns very easy). Not that this is good thing, as my first trip thru the Carousel at the Ridge almost put the car off track.

If you are having trouble modulating the brakes on trail braking, less grabby (lower Mu/initial bite) will help.

Hi Boxkita,

I'm not looking for more brake, my front pads were 85% gone and I didn't want to start a race weekend on them, especially if I need to use the car in the Enduro because of an issue with the Integra.

But you make a valid point about my braking not hitting high temps yet. I know that, I'm trying to creep up on the ultimate brake point slowly as I learn my traction limits with this car. Eventually I'll get there, right now I'm braking early and lighter than I will be later in the season.

One of the biggest attributes of the CL pads is their very wide temp operating range, Even cold they have good bite, and they stay very consistent as they get hotter.

If you are running on Friday, entering the chicane is a good place to practice max braking, you have a long run off. Even if you are running practice on Saturday, you can still do it. You should be able to get over 100 by the chicane...don't turn in, just nail the brakes. Be prepared to get off them immediately as they should lock up almost instantly. The back will get loose, especially if the tire pressures are not equal.

The next time thru, aim for your turn in point, nail then ease off the brakes, ease the wheel to the right and roll on the throttle. If you haven't got off boost too much, the car will immediately turn. The hard initial bite will make it hard to keep the front set for the rest of chicane. You may want to trail brake the whole thing.

Still looking for my data feed from the wagon at PR. My fastest lap there was a 1:39.

I'm racing at PIR (Portland) this weekend. To make the trip maximized I went to Fred and Cindi Lux's shop in Hillsboro for a NASA annual tech and then to Portland Speed industries (PSI) for "official' Dynojet dyno.

The NASA tech is to get enough races in this summer to hopefully qualify for the Western Championship in Sonoma in November.

Fred Lux is a great guy. He did a VERY thorough tech inspection and we found a few items that needed to be fixed. For example the driver seat was a little loose, and he found a small movement in the left front suspension/wheel when doing the hub check. He also found the rear sway bar had become disconnected! The nut had come off one of the links. The wheel issue was the bottom of the CO shaft ring needed to be tightened.

We used his tools to fix all the issues there on the spot. He also spent time explaining the mods on the other cars in his shop including Cindi's Viper. Cindi runs the Ford driving program at Miller Motorsports Park. They are quite the pair. http://www.cindilux.com/ And the best part was Fred charged me $0 for the tech inspection and two hours of his time and shop use. A big shout out for Lux Performance group!

At PSI the owner Jason put the Silver Eagle on the dyno and we immediately noticed I was only getting 305 HP/306 TQ on their dyno, and he was only able to get 14.5 psi boost on my 16 psi map. We suspect a boost leak has developed that I will have to trace down. I was going to get dynos at 14, 15, and 16 but there was no point going further until I can determine if I have leak. I'll run data logging this weekend and do some leak testing.

At PIR now, racing today and tomorrow. Praying for Rain on Sunday!

Great racing all weekend and the Silver Eagle survived with no problems. I turned on my Cobb AP for data logging several sessions, and according to it I'm hitting 16+ psi and holding steady on my boost. Multiple seconds at 100% throttle and no psi drop off unless I go over 5900 rpm, then it tapers down to 15.5 psi. I already knew the turbo was maxxed at 6,000 rpm, so that was no surprise.

I have no idea why the strange reading at P.S.I. on Friday. I'm sending all my logs to Cobb/Surgeline for analysis. I wish I'd had the Cob AP logging while on the dyno at PSI but I forgot about it.

Here's a 40 second video a friend shot as I went by in the Enduro race. I won my class (ME0). Not because I was the fastest (not even close) , but because all the other cars broke down. In racing, and particularly in Enduro racing, it's not the fastest car that wins, its the ones that prep the best and hold it together for the distance. You have to finish to win!

Recall I blew up my R-160 diff with two laps to go in the Spokane Enduro!

I went to the Grid to help my friend Jeremiah get his Acura Integra car out for his first Novice race, and when I come back I find this on the back window of my car:

Teflon, there will be revenge!

I'll edit up some in car videos highlights and post them later this week.

Sunday morning during our ST class qualifying this car from post #35 hit the wall at turn 12, caused by a stuck throttle in Turn 11. He hit hard enough to break the railroad ties on the other side of the tire wall, causing a 35 minute delay for repairs. The driver walked away thanks to his Hans device, but the car is likely done for. I'm sure it wil be cheaper to buy a another M3 and transfer parts than to fix it. Very sad, they are great guys to race with.

Just a reminder to get the best safety equipment and use it!

http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc359/MS6Hayate/2014-NWMS-G4FAM-15.jpg"]http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc359/MS6Hayate/2014-NWMS-G4FAM-15.jpg[/url]

Especially if you have a Baby On Board!

I'm doing some R&D of a thru the passenger headlight cold air intake. More on that in a later post, but doing that work I removed my front bumper which has given me a chance to post up good pics of the FMIC and engine oil cooler installations.

The FMIC is pretty large, wider than the radiator.

Oil Cooler Installation. There is plenty of room for a fan on the engine side in the future. Note the Oil Temp sender built into the oil cooler line fitting right at the cooler.

......

Next Races at ORP July 25-27.

PIR, ICSCC NW Mini Enduro June 2014. The first 20 minutes is tight wheel to wheel racing with a covey of Miatas. They pass me in the corners, I pass them on the straights. Great Racing Action!

It starts raining and I kiss an apex that normally would be no problem, but in the wet it throws my Subaru Legacy Wagon into a spin. The Miatas escaped into the mist....however I ended up winning the ME0 class because the other competitors dropped out.

Many thanks to my sponsor Stars Cabaret for helping me prepare a car that could last to the end and the win!

This is one of my favorite threads...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Many thanks to my sponsor Stars Cabaret for helping me prepare a car that could last to the end and the win!

 

Strip club sponsor FTW!!! Hope you didn't have to pay for parts in $1 bills

Wait till you see the new pit crew they are putting together!

And I have a plenty of Stars VIP passes for anyone that comes by the paddock.....

moar..

Great video!

I fabricated some aluminum and roll bar padding for ducting around the FMIC and Radiator.

FMIC:

Top of radiator and the oem hood latch are now sealed up:

....

And I'm putting a CAI thru the headlight, still a little work left to do on that:

...

I used an old waste paper basket bottom around the air filter:

Next Test & Tune and Racing this weekend at Oregon Raceway Park. We'll see how the air intake works soon!