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[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete


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Well in that case I may take these back and get something else. I wanted a good 10mm flare wrench but there aren't many good stores around here for tools so I went with these. I will check around online for a good set to keep in the tool box.
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My clutch pedal is very firm. I had the privilege of driving GTEASER's SWP. The clutch pedal is way easier to use on his 2012 compared to my 2010. It's almost as if the clutch was replaced before I bought it. :iam:

 

 

I am still enjoying the mod. :wub:

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hallelujah! The clutch damper demon has been exorcised from my LGT and its a miracle! Seriously though...thanks reeg420 and gteaser for figuring this out. Clutch engagement is fantastic and shifter feel is far less noodly. Shifts are faster (especially downshifting) and no more herky jerky going from 1st to 2nd gear.
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  • 2 weeks later...
A belt sander will make the gusset removal very quick, like 5 or 10 minutes. You could certainly do it with a Dremel or hack saw and file, it would just take a lot longer.

 

Leave the little white plugs in the ends so you dont get metal shavings in the connector.

Not when you use THIS kind of hacksaw....

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/f2bc06359c406545530a82f20f2f4eac.jpg

 

10 seconds is more like it.

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/9e1b1ba35cdfc15523fd361629701b2d.jpg

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Yes.. I know.. With a hacksaw blade in it. My point was that it literally took 10 seconds to buzz through the cast aluminum.

 

By the way, any Canadians looking to pick up some flare-nut wrenches, Crappy Tire has a great deal on. ~60% off - $15 for a standard set and $20 for flex-head set of mastercraft wrenches. Those will never break.

 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?searchByTerm=true&q=flare+nut+wrench

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Tip #1:

Don't get flex-head flare nut wrenches. They keep flopping over on you and its a pain in the ass. Rigid ones == better.

 

Tip #2:

Put some duck tape over the sound deadening material behind the master cylinder, as a way to catch the brake fluid dripping from it and down onto something to catch/soak it up. I basically made a little chute that the brake fluid would run down and zero mess as a result.

 

Tip #3:

My fluid reservoir completely drained into the cabin. Not sure if there would have been any way to prevent that, so just removing most of the fluid from the reservoir first would be a good idea == less flowing into the cabin when popping the line from the master cylinder. Have lots of fluid on hand. I used about half a quart of DOT-4 fluid during the bleeding process.

 

Tip #4:

Use some long zip-ties to strap the clutch peddle in the upward position to guarantee you don't bump it and puke out fluid everywhere.

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I didn't know it would drain through the master or I would have sucked it out with my vacuum pump. Hopefully this will help others avoid the same mistake.

 

Now I am unlearning my throttle blip part way through clutch engagement habit which was to preload the drive train and smoothen clutch engagement. Now its just a useless weird thing to do. Its like getting comfy with a whole new car, but a better one at that.

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^^The last pic is the sub-assembly you removed from the slave cylinder?

 

Yes, that is the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly.

 

If you look at pic #4 & #5 [Clutch Damper Delete (1)], you will see both front & back of the damper disk, (12 little holes around a small hole in the middle) the back side has a small black rubber circle that acts as a check valve which allows fluid to travel through the 12 holes in one direction but not in the other direction. It forces the fluid to travel the opposite direction through the center hole.

Edited by BigBopper
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What does removing this part change?

 

According to the service manager I spoke with, removing those bits from the slave cylinder have more of an impact on clutch feel and engagement than the CDV delete. Would like to hear GTEASER's opinions after he does it since I had both the delete and slave cylinder bits taken out all at once.

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According to the service manager I spoke with, removing those bits from the slave cylinder have more of an impact on clutch feel and engagement than the CDV delete. Would like to hear GTEASER's opinions after he does it since I had both the delete and slave cylinder bits taken out all at once.

 

I find that hard to believe, but I could be wrong. It will slow clutch engagement a little, but the sheer volume of fluid stored in and displaced by the damper would have a much bigger affect on the pedal's feel and connectivity to the clutch plate.

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  • 4 weeks later...
never mind i got her figured. just did my first round the block and its like night and day. my engagement point feels a little bit sooner and i like that. A LOT MORE clutch feel. I have so many bad habits to unlearn but i feel like that will happen fast
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For me, a big thing about this fix is in cold weather. In freezing temps, the clutch fluid gets thicker and it makes the damper slow things even more. Trying to change your clutch usage based on air temp is absurd.

 

Glad you were successful and happy ripstik. Then again, nobody that's done it has regretted it... Notta one.

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Yes, that is the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly.

 

If you look at pic #4 & #5 [Clutch Damper Delete (1)], you will see both front & back of the damper disk, (12 little holes around a small hole in the middle) the back side has a small black rubber circle that acts as a check valve which allows fluid to travel through the 12 holes in one direction but not in the other direction. It forces the fluid to travel the opposite direction through the center hole.

 

 

Damn, Adding this to the list. This is just removing more junk out of the lines ? don't need to buy anything.

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