RooTBeeR Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Back Story. I have a 2005 LGT 5EAT, Bone Stock. Thanksgiving 2013 I took it out to the desert to play a bit. All was fine and dandy until I went for a top speed run on my way back to camp to park it. Got up to 115mph, noticed it stopped accelerating, and was going to back out a bit. Before I got a chance to, CEL came on. “Cylinder 1 Misfire”. Coasted down for about 1/2 mile, stopped. As it came to idle, heard a knock. Turned it off and back on, CEL was gone, ran fine even, just had a loud knock. Ended up driving it about 160miles with the knock to get it home. http://youtu.be/APQzZvUBPu4 Tore it apart and found out that #2 has a bit less piston than it was installed with. #2 Looks like it was part of my oil consumption issue. #2 and #4 Journals and intake cam are scored. #1 and #3 had some scoring on the exhaust cam and journals too. Just didn’t bother with pics. New Build Short Block = $1,340 Used 14,000 mile OEM 2013 STI 257 Short Block. The previous owner made one dyno run up to 470whp 420wtq @21psi on E85. He ran it on 19psi making 420whp 380wtq to prevent damage. He’s only selling it to help fund a closed deck block and make more power. Heads = $1,060 New D25 Bare Castings. I was originally going to get new “B” heads and 9:1 pistons because this is my daily driver and I spend a lot of time sitting at traffic signals(stop and go) and don’t get to boost much and wanted a little more off idle/boost power. Then I decided that it’s best for me to leave the short block as is, because it’s much cheaper than going through the whole bottom end and taking it to a machine shop and then buying pistons on top of all of that. So I decided to go with “D” heads that will give me an 8.7:1 CR and that’s close enough for me and is far more budget friendly. Higher than it was, and yet still low enough not to give me any “on boost” problems with the Cali Cat Piss 91. Cams = $610 NEW OEM 2005 LGT Cams Valves(Intake(8) & Exhaust(8)) = $241 New OEM 2008 WRX Valve Springs(16) = $93 New OEM 2008 WRX Valve Spring Retainers(16) = $35 New OEM 2008 WRX Valve Spring Seats(16) = $11 New OEM 2008 WRX Valve Collets(32) = $comes in the gasket kit New OEM 2008 WRX AVCS Oil Control Valves(2) = $175 Timing Belt Kit w/ Water Pump = $188 Exhaust Cam Sprocket = $65 BMB’s Bullet Proof TIMC Kit = $90 TIC FU Cam Bolts = $40 Nameless Performance Air Pump Delete Plates = $62 Company 23 Cam/Crank pulley tools = $242 ARP Head Stud Kit = $220 Red Line Assembly Lube = $9 08 WRX Engine Gasket Kit = $256 CV Joint Banding Tool(for BulletProof TMIC kit) = $20 Oil Cooler = $203 Oil Cooler Connector = $30 10mm OEM Oil Pump = $134 OEM Spark Plugs = $30 Torque Converter Circlip = $3 Agency Power Light Weight Crank Pulley = $127 Killer B Motorsport Oil Pan, Pick Up Tube, Baffle = $600 Blox Magnetic Oil Drain Plug = $10 OEM Valve Buckets(16) = $312 OEM Oil Cooler Hose Elbows(3) = $26 JMP Rebuilt Turbo = $$$ Billet compressor wheel + Inconel turbine wheel and shaft Venair Silicon Hose Kits(3) = $350 Current Total $6,664(est.) Dyno Tune = $700 Adding to this list as I go. Red parts I still need. First part I bought since it's the first part I broke while removing the engine. 8/3 Picked up the short block Need to clean off the clutch dust and carbon on pistons. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Got the heads. 9/20/2014 Got My TIC FU Cam Bolts. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/21/zaqyjuqe.jpg 11/14/2014 Update (1) Exhaust Cam Gear Pulley. (2) AVCS Oil Control Valves. (8) Intake Valves. (8) Exhaust Valves. (16) Valve Springs. (16) Valve Spring Seats. (16) Valve Spring Retainers. (32) Valve Valve Collets. 12/23 Got Head studs and lube. 12/24 Valve spring compressor and Turkeylord Blue T fitting replacement. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/24/41e0fc2a846b853ae6e3182e6b356963.jpg 12/29/2014 Got my gasket kit from Infamous Performance and Tuning. Assembly can begin soon. 1/4/2015 Took the old engine off the engine stand. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5027189&postcount=116 Got the new shortblock on the stand. Cleaned all of the clutch material and grime off of the bell housing, and pulled the rear main seal out. New one is on order. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5027189&postcount=116 Fancy nitride coated crank. ARP head studs installed. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5027189&postcount=116 1/6/2015 Got my water pump and timing kit. 1/7/2015 got my CV Boot Banding Tool for my "Bullet Proof TMIC" kit. 02/06/2015 Oil Pump Oil Cooler Oil Cooler Tube Tq Converter Cir-Clip Spark Plugs 02/07/2015 Agency Power Light Weight Crank Pulley 02/20/2015 Killer B Motorsport Oil Pan, Pick Up Tube, and Baffle 02/20/2015 Blox Magnetic Oil Drain Plug 02/21/2015 Infamous Performance & Tuning Filtered Turbo Oil Supply Line Kit 03/01/2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5079878&postcount=138 Installed: Valve Seals Valves Valve Spring Seats Valve Springs Valve Spring Retainers Valve Locks on the RH Head. 03/07/2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5085344&postcount=146 Installed Nameless Air Pump Delete Kit (block off plates) Installed: Valve Seals Valves Valve Spring Seats Valve Springs Valve Spring Retainers Valve Locks on the LH Head. Measured lash on both heads. 03/21/2015 Ordered a cam sensor, 16 new buckets, 3 oil cooler elbow hoses, All 3 Venair hose sets from IP&T 03/27/2015 Got valve buckets, gasket maker, oil cooler elbow hoses, and some oil. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/06/af90dd944de757234e3f099621e37f3c.jpg http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5114662&postcount=161 Assembled the heads. Turned the short block into a long block. 03/08/2013 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5117594&postcount=162 Put the plugs in that I regapped put on the killer b motorsports windage tray and oil pick up tube put on the killer b motorsport oil pan. put on the water pump Moved over the last of the bolts and sensors for the old block to the new one. 04/12/2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5121011&postcount=197 installed oil cooler, wrong part number ordered correct coolant bypass pipe for wrong oil cooler to work threw the oil filter on for to keep teh parts clean installed oil pump installed water pump bought copper crush washers bought oil supply plug bought flexplate bought turbo oil return hose installed water pipe installed Oil control valves installed heater coolant pipe Installed timing pulleys Torqued oil pressure sensor 04/13/2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5122665&postcount=198 I swapped out the two valve buckets that were out of spec for two that were in spec. I put sealant on the oil control valves and the valve covers and bolted everything back together. Install the cam seals Put the timing covers on Put the cam sprockets on Used the TIC FU can bolts Changed all the hose clamps over to worm gear Put the timing belt on and all of the pulleys Time the engine and spun it over a few times Put the knock sensor on it Put the turbo coolant tank return and breather pipes on "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 04/15/2015 I ran out of parts. So not much progress today. Other parts are on order, other parts need to be ordered. Talked to JMP about my turbo. Installed my IP&T ACVS+Turbo filtered oil lines kit(sort of). Got my oil galley plug today. Installed it. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/15/2e5e09f040610921a3db95cc7941c700.jpg 04/17/2015 Got my copper crush washers yesterday. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/18/009781db009c30737f578130f91ac982.jpg 04/18/2015 Sent my VF40 off to JMP to work his magic on it. 04/20/2015 Got my new flex plate "motor plate" Oil cooler crossover tube Turbo oil drain tube http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/e2a5f51574da6acb52bd0bd8aad67c8f.jpg 4/29/2015 Got my JMP rebuilt turbo back w/ a new Inconel Turbine wheel and shaft, and Billet Compressor wheel. Also got TMIC Studs and Head/Chassis Ground Straps Thanks again to Mr. JMP, awesome service and product! http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/11f681ee2df98a91ca07f0818fced943.jpg Also got more parts. Subaru Blue Oil Filters Power Steering, Alternator, and A/C belts Oil Cooler Coolant Hose Elbow http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/cfeba48e2ef5625b54c76a5c3fe4d359.jpg 05/03/2015 Went to radio shack. Got my Catless uppipe resistor. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/b71fc7bc459e18ae983fa093381401d3.jpg 06/03/2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5165269 Installed the right oil cooler coolant hose Installed the oil pan 06/06/2015 Cleaned the exhaust flanges. Installed the exhaust manifolds, up pipe, turbo, turbo oil feed line Installed the timing covers and crank pulley 07/06/2015 Zerolift TGV Delete Kit http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/bdf51ca300b5f38b6f45d3fbf14ba65b.jpg 07/13/2015 Venair Silicon Hose Kits http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/ad380d3a96897ca7192693915ca645b1.jpg 08/04/2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5206735&postcount=320 Finally put my Flex(Drive) plate on. 08/05/2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5207624 Put the power steering pump on. Motor mounts on. Put the torque converter on. Mated the engine and trans. 08/11/2015 Re-tightened the freon line over the trans. Reconnected the heater hoses. Reconnected the fuel/vent lines. Reconnected the vacuum booster line. Reconnected the injector harness. Put the starter in. Reconnected the starter wires. Reconnected the A/C clutch wire. Reconnected the alternator wires. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Good, luck. I'm hoping this thread turns out better than the other one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Thanks haha I just wanted to retitle it. Picking up the short block this afternoon "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Why a 12mm oil pump? 11 is overkill for a DD, 12 is meant for high HP hhigh-revving dual AVCS- Did you get a new oil cooler, too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Good point. Most of the builds I've been looking at everyone keeps going bigger because they need it(>9,000hp). This is why I posted before I have purchased much. Wanted some feed back. I have not gotten a new oil cooler, is not the best idea to reuse the old one? Found this. I have no problem staying with a 10mm if my '13 short block clearances and my D25 heads http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=39121474&postcount=10 "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Why are you buying valve seals and a gasket kit? The kit comes with valve seals. And use the 10mm pump for single avcs 11mm for dual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 I just saw that actually. I typed this up putting a parts list off the top of my head. I hadnt looked into what all came in the gasket kit. thanks though. Yeah I'm still using single AVCS heads. From what I understand, the Oil puck up tube problem was '06+. So I'll be reusing my stock piece. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 I would really suggest a pickup. It's basically all turbo ej25 motors with the pick up issue. My pick up failed, it's what blew my motor :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 I would really suggest a pickup. It's basically all turbo ej25 motors with the pick up issue. My pick up failed, it's what blew my motor :-/ This. I hate to say it, but, when you're spending this much on a rebuild, you have to keep in mind that $100-200 here and there can mean the difference between longevity and doing it again. The KB pickup is like, $175, sometimes less, depending on which seller you buy it from. Worth every penny to ensure that your bearings don't starve and that everything gets all the oil it's supposed to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Does that $722 figure include headwork? I don't see headwork on there. Swap the $700 dyno tune for $400 in headwork and $250-350 for a used V2 Cobb AP. Do you have a DP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 no. what head work would i need done? I was just going to lap my old valves on the new heads. Staying as stock as possible. Dont need any BS with SMOG. so stock turbo, stock DP. Actually I was supposed to smog it a month ago. So once its running, thats the first things i'll be doing in order to get my registrations tags. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 See my build thread or shopping list with the post from JmP6889928 about headwork. Write that shit down (or print it out?) and use that list to call and get prices on headwork, or just hand it to a machine shop and say, Do 'dis! 1. Machine shop will pressure test. 2. Hot tank 3. Clean the valves and inspect to make sure there is enough sealing surface on the valve itself and if not, replace. 4. Inspect the valve guides and replace if necessary. 5. Inspect the valve seats and replace if necessary. 6. Grind the valves themselves on a valve grinding machine. 7. Grind the seats with a valve seat grinder. 8. Deck the heads (gasket surface) enough without being too much-enough to make sure that they both are flat. 9. Install the valves into the head with assembly lube. 10. Install new valve stem seals on each valve. 11. Reinstall the springs onto each valve stem. 12. Insert your cams and buckets and switch buckets around until they have the valves correctly lashed as per specs. 13. Call you up to come and get them and pay them $400.00 or more, depending on exactly what else is needed. I got mine done at a local NAPA, but they are close to, and used by my shop, PIA. Call around to the local Subie shops, see who they use (don't let them tell you they do it themselves -- bullshit.) and then take your heads there. You just need them refreshed/rebuilt, unless there's damage. Bring cams, cam towers, and bolts so that they can set the lash. Realistically, they'll need to be adjusted one more time before install, but, that's fairly easy to do, now that I've watched it. If you have any experience with a feeler guage, you'll have no problem - Mind the specs on those bolts when you tighten them down! If you shear a cam tower bolt, you're gonna have a bad time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 no. what head work would i need done? I was just going to lap my old valves on the new heads. Staying as stock as possible. Dont need any BS with SMOG. so stock turbo, stock DP. Actually I was supposed to smog it a month ago. So once its running, thats the first things i'll be doing in order to get my registrations tags. I'm up for smog this month, and from what I've heard, they just hook it up, and if there's no CEL, then you're good to go. I know that Cali is different, though, with visual inspection and all. At the very least, for the sake of your turbo, you need to replace your UP with an STi takeoff one. (~$75) It's an OEM bit, it should pass visual just fine, and it won't kill your turbo, as a new one will be about $750. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Oil pick up tubes besides Killer B for much less money. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p3.html Post 37 If you are going to lap your valves in yourself (and it can work fine if you do as long as there are no other inherent issues-guides, seats, etc.), make sure that the valves are actually in decent shape and not bent. If you've done hand lapping before, then you'll know what I mean as to the stripe around the mating surfaces. Find someone that you know that might have some extra used valves in case you have a couple that don't look great. Make sure and clean the stems as well as you can and mark them as you take them out. It's sometimes easier to simply take one out, do the cleaning and lapping, and reinstall it with new seal and assembly lube, and then move to the next, but remember that once you do this, it most likely will change your bucket/cam measurement because you'll be actually making the valve stem slightly taller. Do the entire head and then begin to check with feeler gauge for clearances. Here's a great tool for removing the valves easily and quickly: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p8.html Post 117-I purchased the Company 23 piece and have used it-works excellently and easily. Before you do the valves, just make sure and flatplate the heads (glue 240 grit sandpaper <adhesive sandpaper is available at body shops in rolls> onto a flat aluminum plate large enough to reach across the head) and slowly and gently take it down until it's closer than it was. If you had no head gasket issues before, then you shouldn't now. Also lightly go over the block deck too just to make sure there are no imperfections. Believe me, if you had a head gasket fail and you took it to a shop, in almost all cases, they would simply clean it, and put on a new gasket. Rarely would they have the heads reconditioned, especially if it's only one head gasket. I would suggest the ARP head stud kit as it will definitely make sure that your heads are more consistent. Also, as MrTris can attest, if you stud the oil pan, windage tray, pickup tube, and just about anything else that you can in 6mm, your strength goes way up because you're not using the threads in the aluminum, but the threads in the nut to tighten up. Much stronger, much safer, much more consistent. You can purchase long 6mm allen set screws and then nuts and washers and they work great. Lastly, as I'm sure you're already aware, ANTI SEIZE THE HELL OUT OF IT when you reassemble. I even painted my mating surface and alignment pins/holes between the back of the engine block and transmission bell housing with a thin coating of anti seize because if I ever have to take it apart, I want it to come apart with no hassles. Good luck and take your time and it will come out right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 I'm up for smog this month, and from what I've heard, they just hook it up, and if there's no CEL, then you're good to go. I know that Cali is different, though, with visual inspection and all. At the very least, for the sake of your turbo, you need to replace your UP with an STi takeoff one. (~$75) It's an OEM bit, it should pass visual just fine, and it won't kill your turbo, as a new one will be about $750. Yeah i got an sti uppipe long before the engine died, never installed it though. Now that its all apart, I will. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Cams are in the mail. I still need to clean up my valves. Still waiting to hear back from the guy im trying to buy the heads from. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Sub for another good build. GL My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Sub for another good build. GL Looks like we all learnt something from Waspy after all! (Even if it was what not to do!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Sub for another good build. GL I'm at the point my heads are next item to tackle so why not? subscribed too. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 UPS dropped off some goodies. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/09/ydy5uqeh.jpg "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Nice. So where are you now with the build? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 Heads are in the mail. I still have a crap tone of "small" things to buy. Money already needs to be carefully spent. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Ok so I hope not to find this much carnage... Subbed. Were at the same place for different reasons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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