05 LGT Time for new short block

Well it was fun while it lasted. After oh 3k mi ownership was getting heading home aprox 3 mi. away merging into traffic, on ramp. So yeah i was getting on it a little, well i guess more so than i noticed when all of a sudden i hear knocking sounds coming from engine and noticeable decrease in power. Pull off to the side of the road, turn the engine off. I get that cramp in the back feeling like when you know you've screwed up now. By this time i'm only 1.5 mi to home so i literally coast 1/2 mi attempt to start the car and she barely runs. Limp the poor girl home, knowing the time has come. Fortunately I have other transportation but timing was not in my favor. This was on 12/10/16.

 

With Christmas right around the corner, full time job, recently moved into new home and both kids with birthdays shortly after Christmas I knew the job was too much to just quickly dive into. So I started reading the forums as much as possible, forming a plan. First I needed to clean out the garage of extra stuff being stored since the move which then revealed a lighting situation. So I got the garage decluttered, and moved onto installing new garage lighting so that I could see when surgery began on Broke Leg.

 

pics Lt to Rt:

 

1. new shop lighting and Broke Leg in her new home

2. Broke Leg getting comfy with her new surroundings

3. Pre-Broke Leg when she was fairly new to me. Not perfect, slowly diagnosing problems and making changes as needed.

So around 12/19/16 I was off a few days from work and a friend was down for a visit. Kids were still in school prior to Christmas holiday so decided to start the tear down. Everything was fairly straight foward. Took plenty of pics because I knew i wouldn't be able to get back into this project for at least a month due to holiday, birthdays, travel and work. Was able to diagnose well enough to know i would be going the new short block route. Although I felt it very interesting to find and perhaps this has been covered and I just didn't run haven't ran across it. But before pulling engine, I checked timing belt and gears, water pump etc. for possible cause of noise even though I was 97% sure it was bearing failure. Also drained the oil to check for contaminants/debris. Timing system was legit.

NOTE TO NEWBS (myself included)

I drained the oil, checked it in light, ran magnet through oil and around oil filter finding no contaminants which kinda had me thinking for a minute that I may have lucked up or possible turbo failure only (get to that later). REMOVE OIL COOLER!!! Decided while i was down there why not. That's where I found major amounts of metal. So this is when I found out I had not gotten lucky and removal and $$$ was gonna be necessary. After pulling the engine and removing the oil pan chunks of metal and shavings everywhere. Can't seem to find the pic of the oil pan. Pickup tube was oem subaru, in good shape structure wise, minus multiple permatex chunks found on screen.

Didn't completely tear down block halves did remove pistons due to a few metal chunks that were found and pistons were completely intact. Had I planned to rebuild/reuse original block I may have dove deeper but as I mentioned wrench time must be prioritized.

During Christmas holiday and til last of Jan. has been crazy busy with both kids birthdays, christmas, my father's passing, and trips out of state. Parts have been gathered that I believe will be needed minus new turbo. Have been speaking with Jmp6889928 concerning my turbo options. Prior to the failure I was pretty much satisfied with the performance of the car however while I have it tore down I don't see why I shouldn't add a little performance in the way of TF TGV deletes, thinking id1000's, fuel pump and turbo upgrade. Not looking for anything major due to stock internals. Was thinking vf52, cant seem to find one for cheap though that I can send to Jmp68809928 for mod. BNR 16g was suggested also, or he could just rebuild my vf40. Any suggestions? Current mods are limited to suspension and braking with AP V3, invidia catless U/D pipe.

Current parts purchased for rebuild

AVCS cam gears sent to outfront for service TIC FU bolts

oilpan, pickup, baffle, oil cooler, oil pump oem

timing set subaru with water pump thermostat

TF wrx TGV's will delete with 12 STI complete stock fuel rail etc. (may work it was practically free)

x2 subaru ocv

Heads sent to machine shop

ARP head bolts

08 wrx SMFW (at machine shop getting resurfaced) with SB Stg 2 clutch

subaru short block 10103ac050

subaru complete gasket kit plus 4 half moons

subaru pcv

Perrin Turbo inlet

group n motor mounts

various hoses as needed

 

****need to get TB hose, spark plugs, case of oil filters, and oil for break-in****

 

Banjo screens have been removed i'd like an aftermarket oil line solution with filter does Infamous still provide these?

oil pan and clutch setup

It's nice seeing a 5mt GT wagon get rebuilt instead of junked. #WagonsMatter

 

You can reuse your original half-moons if you want to return your new ones and save a few $.

 

Are you having your heads completely rebuilt or just decked? Having them decked at the machine shop and rebuilding them yourself would be pretty easy. There's no magic to lapping and installing new valves, just patience.

If you're going to have a machine shop tear down the SB and rebuild it, do your homework and find a reputable shop that can work on Suby motors. I had to ship my SB 200 miles to a reputable machine shop, because I couldn't trust any of my local shops.

 

As StkmltS mention, if you need to save some extra $$, have the shop pressure test the valves to make sure the setting is still good. If there is no leaks in the valve sets, just have them deck it.

 

What are your plans for internals? Forged pistons? That would be my only recommendation if this is your DD car.

the half moons were like $20 bucks so ill probably just stick with those. gonna stay stock short block for now with oe pistons, not planning to push this engine hard and will get a tune and anal about OCI. machine shop has heads, knowledgeable and recommended by a couple fellow subaru owners. just gonna get basic deck, pressure test, if any other work is needed will perform. waiting on my avcs gears from outfront and take along with my block by the shop to get heads put on and lash checked.

If you are going with 1000cc injectors and a pump you should source a VF52 check NASIOC as the WRX owners tend to ditch theirs. Nice wagon and your path to a road worthy LGT is really the most optimal for the majority of owners in your situation.

 

With the 52, pump and injectors you can run a optimal tune with umph, great MPG and reliability.

Even on stock fueling, the vf52 will be happy. Trust me, I know.

Scored a new 16g from a local so plans are to go that route. On my 3 days of work right now so progress is slow. Was able to do a little this morning after work and some tuesday. Managed to get water pump, oil pump, pain baffle, pickup and oil cooler mounted. Fresh flywheel and clutch this morning. Outfront shipped the avcs gears should be here saturday although who knows when the TIC bolts will arrive. Oh well no rush.

Yeah so does anyone know if there is a certain way to install the clutch and pressure? Saw reference to weights and "0" but didn't quite understand and there was no instructions included. If anyone knows it'd be nice to fix now rather than later.

Did you use a resurfaced flywheel? I was thinking about that but I decided to go with a new one for about 213$ also which clutch/pressure plate are you using? I'm assuming eft because I was looking at those as well as they are reasonably priced but went with oem exedy.

 

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low mileage resurfaced smfw, south bend stg 2 daily clutch. clutch was pricey but flywheel with resurface was $75.

Scored a new 16g from a local so plans are to go that route. On my 3 days of work right now so progress is slow. Was able to do a little this morning after work and some tuesday. Managed to get water pump, oil pump, pain baffle, pickup and oil cooler mounted. Fresh flywheel and clutch this morning. Outfront shipped the avcs gears should be here saturday although who knows when the TIC bolts will arrive. Oh well no rush.

Yeah so does anyone know if there is a certain way to install the clutch and pressure? Saw reference to weights and "0" but didn't quite understand and there was no instructions included. If anyone knows it'd be nice to fix now rather than later.

It doesn't matter how you put on the flywheel or the clutch disc.

The pressure plate lines up on three locating pins, so it'll only go on one way.

 

The markings on the flywheel are from the balancing process. If you look closely you'll probably find a few spots where the factory drilled out some material to make it lighter in that area... thus balancing the flywheel.

 

It would/could matter if you were trying to build a precisely balanced mondo-high-performance engine, and you wanted to balance the flywheel with the rest of the rotating assembly (crankshaft+rods+pistons). Don't worry that you're not doing doing this... it's extremely difficult and totally unnecessary for "normal" cars. Does anyone know if any car manufacturers do this on production vehicles?

From the FSM:

 

• New Flywheel/Pressure Plate: Position the imbalance marks opposite
  
• Used: They should have been match marked before taking apart
  
• Used, no match marks: Sometimes you can find the old factory marks, otherwise, just put it any old way.
  

CL Clutch System.pdf

Thanks guys. That's kinda what I had gathered from my searching but since dmfw to smfw conversion and different clutch etc. from different cars thought I'd ask to be safe now before needing to pull back out car.

 

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Been a while since update. Man my ADD has been kicking my butt. Went back home to NC to pick up my Volvo 240 and got a little distracted by that. Found a mint 940 turbo with plans to swap into the 240. Kinda lost interest in the GT for a minute. Decided to drop the engine off at the shop to finish the engine assembly because my garage was getting crazy. Should hear back from them by the end of the week. In contact with cryo for an e-tune for break-in.

 

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FWIW, I have always seen the FW side of a clutch disc and PP side. You can see my Spec Clutch in my click here link.

Well it's been a while. The wagon is still sitting still, new shortblock in the garage. Just been busy with other projects and can't seem to find the motivation. Not to mention that intake vacuum line birds nest had me wanting to part it out. We today I got off my ass and finished the intake manifold and the deletes, injectors etc. And mounted it to the short block. I do have a question. I'm going with 16g turbo and was wondering should I go with stock avcs oil lines or aftermarket? I've got a set of after market that are 4an but that appears smaller than the stock supply for arcs, the turbo supply appears sufficient. Thanks guys . Hope to get this thing together for winter.

Good Luck going forward. It can be a big task, but when it starts and runs, it feels great.

I'm going with 16g turbo and was wondering should I go with stock avcs oil lines or aftermarket? I've got a set of after market that are 4an but that appears smaller than the stock supply for arcs, the turbo supply appears sufficient.

 

Go with the -4AN oil lines for sure! The 16G won't be happy with stock oiling since stock IHI turbos need less oil then most non ball bearing turbos.

 

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/Subaru_oil_line.jpg

Yeah, ended up going with the 4an line and fittings for turbo and avcs oil feed. Getting close now. Should have it dropped in tomorrow or first of next week. Wanna thank everyone for their past efforts and current help. You all have inspired and encouraged me during this project more than you'll ever know.

Hope you can find the time to get the car back together. I wish I had the time and money to rebuild mine.

 

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Well finally dropped the engine in and got it running. Pretty uneventful with exception of finding minor coolant leak at turbo and apparently pinched the oil cooler gasket causing an oil leak there. All were easily fixed although somewhat difficult to track down. Break-in tune was initially showing high af learning so had to track down the source which ended up being a leak at the corner of the stock intercooler where the metal and plastic tanks are attached ( at tubro to intercooler area). Also had vacuum leak at driver's side front fuel injector (new design id1000's and iag tgv deletes) found that this was somewhat common and fixed easily with addition of washer at fuel rail. Also had pre 2 senor leak at cross pipe and O2 sensor. That about sums it up. Sounds easier than it actually was but I feel I know the car more intimately now lol. Now the long process of putting miles on it before taking to Dyno tune. Will update with pics and keep thread updated.

 

Wanna give a big thanks to everyone one on the forum. If it wasn't for your knowledge and willingness to help others this transplant wouldnt have ended successfully.

Glad to hear its running well.

"Vacuum leak at driver's side front fuel injector"

I'm more interested than most people about that particular cylinder (see my misfire thread) and I haven't read anything about a vacuum leak there... time to get my google on.