Used Oil Analysis - Quaker State "Q" Advanced Engine Full Synthetic 5w30

Rumor has it, that it is PP with very, very small add pack changes. Still a pretty good oil!

Nice UOA! Although the silicone seemed a bit elevated at 16 ppm? Mine have always been no higher than 13, and usually at 11 or less. I'm assuming it is the original filter?

I'm currently running PP 5w-40 euro, as I can source it from a local auto parts store for a few $$$ less than GC.

^^^I noticed the higher than average silicon level too, although I'm not sure what that indicates. What contains silicon, some kind of seal?

What do you mean by "original filter"? I am using oil filters from subarugenuineparts.com, and I change filters when I change the oil (duh). The filters are black, if that helps at all.

Been running PP 10w30 for almost a year now along with the K&N filter. very impressed with the results:)

I'm not really much of a fan of K&N anymore but the welded 1"socket attachment is awesome!!!

Nice! I didn't know that there was a good substitute for the OEM filter. I think I'll change to that after my warranty expires, give the dealership less ammo should something go wrong.

Any price difference between the filters? I think I paid about $6-7 each for a sixpack of OEM filters and crush washers

^^^I noticed the higher than average silicon level too, although I'm not sure what that indicates. What contains silicon, some kind of seal?

 

What do you mean by "original filter"? I am using oil filters from subarugenuineparts.com, and I change filters when I change the oil (duh). The filters are black, if that helps at all.

Nah, not oil filter's, air filter.

Silicon is usually found in a newly assembled engine, or one recently repaired. After sometime, say 10-15k miles, this would be gone, and now the remaing silicone seen in the oil is largely due to dirt getting past the filter. Silicone is an excellent indicator of air filtration. Now in dustier environments, it will uptick higher, so without knowing your baseline for your conditions, it is a little tougher to say. But on your next UOA, if it is still showing around the same ppm, I would change the filter.

If you are paranoid, you can take a peek at the stocker, and see how dirty it is anddetermine if it needs replacement sooner than the 30k maint. interval suggestion...

You know, I have tested a few oil filter's, and none of them did any better than another. So I go with the cheapest I can find.....:drumroll: Walmart Supertech 7317 FTW! $2.17, and I get crush washer's for under $1, which I use 2x then throw away. (They are made by Champion Labs, the same maker of M1 and K&N, Bosch...so actually a pretty good oil filter.)

I have used Wix, OEM, Bosch, ST, and Purolator. They all filtered the same, and quite frankly, I think any decent(read not Fram) oil filter will do the job.

I think the only true benefit to the factory oem one is that it can be run slightly longer becasue it has a few extra pleats as compared to the other's. I'm talking like 9-10k OCI's instead of 7.5-8.5k.

So for anyone using 6k or less, you can easily get away with cheaper filters and not give up any quality. This works out to some savings for me as I do a lot of hwy commuting, and change my oil 4x a year or more...

My only reason for using the K&N is ease of removal;)

I change the oil every 4k & I like you ed do the majority of my driving on the hwy (16k a year)

So a grand total per year for oil & filter changes comes up to a meager 116.00....

That is also the only reason why I change @ 4k intervals as the PP is good for well past that

My only reason for using the K&N is ease of removal;)

 

I change the oil every 4k & I like you ed do the majority of my driving on the hwy (16k a year)

 

So a grand total per year for oil & filter changes comes up to a meager 116.00....

 

That is also the only reason why I change @ 4k intervals as the PP is good for well past that

Damn, your wasting good oil! 4k? That's all? Heck, you spoil your car, I don't let mine see any earlier than 6k.

I found a KD tools oil filter wrench, actually more like a claw, that works on any filter up to I believe the 5" diam. It has 3 finger's, and they rotated in or out to fit the filter, and then bite into it when you go to loosen the filter. YOu use a 3/8" square drive ext. on a rachet. It is made of hardened steel, and has yet to lose to any filter! Cost like $8 at the local auto parts store.

I use the money saved on filter's, to fund my methanol needs, you know for the alky injection:icon_mrgr !

Damn, your wasting good oil! 4k? That's all? Heck, you spoil your car, I don't let mine see any earlier than 6k.

 

I found a KD tools oil filter wrench, actually more like a claw, that works on any filter up to I believe the 5" diam. It has 3 finger's, and they rotated in or out to fit the filter, and then bite into it when you go to loosen the filter. YOu use a 3/8" square drive ext. on a rachet. It is made of hardened steel, and has yet to lose to any filter! Cost like $8 at the local auto parts store.

 

I use the money saved on filter's, to fund my methanol needs, you know for the alky injection:icon_mrgr !

This is reassuring. I'm going 6k OCI with stock everything, and to know that you're going 6k with quite the monster setup makes me feel at ease.

Speaking of which, here is a "for instance". If I got yearly UOAs done and kept records of materials purchased for my oil changes, would this cover me as far as the warranty is concerned?

.......I have used Wix, OEM, Bosch, ST, and Purolator. They all filtered the same, and quite frankly, I think any decent(read not Fram) oil filter will do the job......

Early indications seem to indicate that the new "nanofiber" types of filter media, such as Synteq from Donaldson, will offer a real improvement over what has been available for the last 20 years. We are talking about improved contaminant retention without a reduction in flow. Lots of discussion about it over at BITOG. Amsoil has started selling filters with nanofiber media, for limited applications.

Early indications seem to indicate that the new "nanofiber" types of filter media, such as Synteq from Donaldson, will offer a real improvement over what has been available for the last 20 years. We are talking about improved contaminant retention without a reduction in flow. Lots of discussion about it over at BITOG. Amsoil has started selling filters with nanofiber media, for limited applications.

Learn something new everyday! Thanks! I guess I have been neglecting BITOG...

You know, I have tested a few oil filter's, and none of them did any better than another. So I go with the cheapest I can find.....:drumroll: Walmart Supertech 7317 FTW! $2.17, and I get crush washer's for under $1, which I use 2x then throw away. (They are made by Champion Labs, the same maker of M1 and K&N, Bosch...so actually a pretty good oil filter.)

 

I was doing an oil change for my car and I went to Autozone and picked up some STP filters. The new Supertech looks just like it, with that light blue valve thing in the middle and even the sides both have that same drawings showing how to change the filter.

I've been used 6609, is 7317 what the book recommends now? I agree these filters are cheap and plentiful and do the work.

As for newer nano filters, if you keep with a 3k oil change will it make a difference? I can see if you want to go for extended use otherwise it'll just be a waste of money.

I'm going to be switching to the Amsoil EAO12 next oil change, I'll change the filter every other change.

Want to see what the test result's come back with......

I was doing an oil change for my car and I went to Autozone and picked up some STP filters. The new Supertech looks just like it, with that light blue valve thing in the middle and even the sides both have that same drawings showing how to change the filter.

 

I've been used 6609, is 7317 what the book recommends now? I agree these filters are cheap and plentiful and do the work.

 

As for newer nano filters, if you keep with a 3k oil change will it make a difference? I can see if you want to go for extended use otherwise it'll just be a waste of money.

No, the 7317 is just a smidge longer, so it can hold a touch more oil. And yeas the STP's are indeed made by Champion Labs as well. Very good filter, they are usually $1 more than Walmart's housebrand though.

Awesome post. I'm changing my oil in the next day or so and will be it analyzed by Blackstone Labs as well. I'm going to post the results here as well.

I do lots of highway mileage and want to know how long I can extend the OCI's. Currently, I'm doing my OCI's at 6000kms (3750 miles) and am using Mobil1 5W30 and the OEM filter (white).

It's always a good practice to change the filter @ the same time you change the oil.

Though on my next change I am switching over to the Amsoil filter & I am going to leavve it on for 2 changes & then send it in to Blackstone for analysis.

Out of curiosity: Do those of you who go 6k between oil changes change your filters more often?

Wouldn't it be kind of difficult and messy to change your oil filter without changing the oil?

If you are paranoid, you can take a peek at the [air filter] stocker, and see how dirty it is anddetermine if it needs replacement sooner than the 30k maint. interval suggestion...

I checked my air filter at 18,000 miles, and it was completely black with a few leaves in it. No way it would last 30,000mi..that's a joke. I'm now checking it every oil change and replacing it every 10,000 miles. Small price to pay for not letting crap getting in my engine.