jamesm113 Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 It happens when I turn the wheel quickly, usually as I back out of or into a parking spot. Does happen at in a local roundabout too, around 15 miles an hour (the round about is made of bricks and very bumpy) Hard to describe the sound, but it sounds kinda "springy" Here's a video, happens at the 3 second mark- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faY3Flj3y1c&feature=youtu.be 97 subaru legacy L wagon, 170K moog inner tie rods at 127k power steering pump gaskets & oil seals replaced 128k whiteline front control arm rear mount 145k can't think of any other related repairs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I have something like this too at low speeds when turning over rough terrain. I'm thinking its the stabilizer bar links binding and then unloading. Mine is more of a slight groan and a pop. I've never taken the time to lube them. Be sure to update us if you figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassnectar Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I think its your ball joints man. they would rattle like crazy if there was play on a brick road. however they should also make some noise going straight. my Car has 177k Miles and I just changed both of mine but only one had developed play, they were oem but unsure if they had ever been changed before I just replaced mine via a youtube video that involves using a socket and good ol gravity to pop the ball joint out of the knuckle. I would however recommend spraying the 14mm through bolt down with PB blaster a few times before attempting this. stripping that bolt is gonna add a lot of time to this repair. It is way quicker if you leave the knuckles on the car. put anti seize on the new ball joints and clean out the cavity they go in. its easier to get the new ball joint in by disconnecting the tie rod and strut to allow you to spin the knuckle and install the ball joint without fighting the control arm. however I am changing lots of suspension components and need a wheel alignment anyways. If necessary make sure to mark the top strut bolt as this is your camber setting. Check your old ball joints by pulling up and down on them. they should move radially but not in and out. it will be quiet in your hand but clunk loudly in car as there loaded and unloaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Ok, inspected the ball joints and the stabilizer bar links. Driver side ball joint had a slight click/some play, passenger side had no play. Also, not sure how much movement is normal with the stabilizer end links. There was a good amount of play/squeaking, but it didn't seem like the same noise. Here's a video- https://youtu.be/aZ9wHtlyZQE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobo Joe Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I have the same issue as well. I'm wondering if the steering rack bushings are shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 top strut mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 Top strut mounts are good, just replaced the struts and checked them. No rust, smooth operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Ok, ball joints replaced, noise is definitely reduced but still present. Also, I noticed this on the steering shaft / u joint, not sure if it is normal to have so much of those splines exposed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 steering shaft / u joint, not sure if it is normal to have so much of those splines exposed. there is a bolt on each end if the u-joint to connect it to the shaft. each pinches the u-joint on to the shaft splines. one end, probably yhe steering wheel side, also has a cut out in the shaft the blot fits in. so even if the pinch blot is not tight, the u-joint will not slip off as long as the bolt is in place. (a very similar setup as the pinch bolt on the lower ball joints on the hub assembly.) this is a long way of saying that the position of one end is predetermined. so unless the pinch bolt on the other end is loose and the splines are slipping, yours is fine. so go back to your previous problem. the u-joint is not a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokentv Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 When I first got my car. whenever I would go over certain bumps I would get a good clunking sound. I changed my struts which I needed to badly anyway and my steering rack which was also in need of replacement, I thought those would fix the clunk but there was no change at all. A long time later after almost giving up I got the idea of popping the hood and putting weight on the front of the car while looking at the bolt on the top of the strut under the dust cover. I noticed that when I put weight on it the bolt would bob up and down. This may not be your problem but double check that bolt on each strut closely while pushing down on the car even if you just installed struts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Ok, checked that, the nut doesn't bob up & down. Struts are mounted pretty securely as far as I can tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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