Studs problem

im in the middle of doing my breaks right now, went to take off the front tires, 2 studs snapped right off, these rims have not been taken off by me since i brought it to the shop to have the tire mounted on the rims (my new silver ones) and im thinking the assholes at the stop forced 2 of the lug nuts on and it snapped when i was taking them off. since im replacing rotors and the studs are right there, i already hit them through the hub (i think thats what its called) but i cant get it out completely any idea how to get it out? any DYI?

I would try to drill them out if you can't knock em try using a punch or a thick awl. I had a discount tire do the same thing. I was able to get them to pay for it cause I raised hell, but that's BullSh*T. My guess is the kid who torqued them on either had the torque up way to high or the idiot crossthreaded them on in which case he should not be working on cars.

 

Have you checked the rest of your wheels?

the rest are fine, came off no problem, might have to break out the grinder and make them shorter to pull out

I looked in the factory manual and there is mention of a special tool that you insert the hub into to support it in the press when removal of studs is required. The same tool is to be used to support when pressing in the new studs. I know real men don't read manuals, but, they did mention that if you are not careful the hub can be warped, and the tone wheel can give problems when warped. I hope you were very careful, I suggest when you draw the studs in you do what you can to support it as best you can. (OK, by support, I mean use washers or a socket or the wheel if aluminum to keep from warping the hub at the outer edge by the stud)

While my LGT was sitting around I had to donate a stud to a buddy who also was rocking a BD. The proper way involves taking off the hub and blah blah blah specialized tools blah blah. . . we used a grinder both in removing the remainder of the broken stud and to file down one side to make it possible to slide in and out past the ABS tone wheel.

Not sure if its the same for the 2nd gen Legacy but on the first gen there is a slot in the hub that allows you to get the studs out. If the hub is a "Clock" the slot would be at the 9 O'clock position. It is a very, VERY subtle indentation in the hub that gives you just enough clearance to pull the stud out at an angle. If you have to, push the stud back in a little bit and rotate the hub to line up the stud with the relief in the hub. If you were just looking at the hub you probably wouldn't notice this indentation, but it should be there. Even with the indentation it can be a bit tricky to get the old stud out, but surprisingly easy to get a new stud in (Don't ask me how).

 

Completely coat the new studs, threads and all, with anti-seize to prevent anything like this from happening again. Cross your fingers and hope that you didn't bend the hub. This happened with 4 studs on my first gen last time I had all 4 wheels off, but after hammering the old ones out and torquing the new ones in the car drives straight and true with no vibrations, even better than the Pathfinder.

 

+1 on those minimum wage tire changer people ruining peoples cars. Most of the time if I go to those places (Unless I need an alignment) I just take the wheels off the car and bring them nothing but the wheels and tires. Most of the time its cheaper and you don't have to worry about them bodging up your car.

Platinum thanks for the info, I'm definately going to check to see if that indentation is on 2nd gens.

 

+1 on those minimum wage tire changer people ruining peoples cars. Most of the time if I go to those places (Unless I need an alignment) I just take the wheels off the car and bring them nothing but the wheels and tires. Most of the time its cheaper and you don't have to worry about them bodging up your car.

I do the same

This is really easy to to if you have air tools. If you're doing it at home, you may just want to remove your entire hub and take it to a local shop so they can use an impact to pull the new stud through.

 

so wrong, u dont impact it on, u press it in, its a pain in the ass but if u know wat ure doing, u can easily get it in with a hammer.

While a decent air compressor and decent air tools do make all the difference, installing studs is pretty simple even without air tools.

 

Usually what I do is bang the stud through the hub, wiggle the old stud out of the car, coat the new stud in anti-seize, wiggle the new stud into the hub, take a standard acorn style lug nut, flip it around backwards and spin it on. Tightening the acorn style lug nut pulls the .stud through the hub without the risk of warping anything. If you have an impact wrench it would make it easier, but it is totally possible to use an impact wrench without removing the hub. Its also possible to use regular hand tools to get the job done, you just need a breaker bar or a long piece of pipe as leverage.