CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

FWIW, I also replaced the 3 hoses when I did my pipe while the engine was out. I also used the 500F paint. It still looks pretty good 2 years later.

I am replacing this pipe this weekend. Got all the elbows and clips etc. Although I was planning on replacing the rubber elbows back to the oil cooler.

 

I guess I should look into painting it. Although - not living in a rust state (or even in the snow) I doubt it will be needed.

 

Edit here are the part numbers I bought (pulled from opposed forces). This is about $80 from a dealer.

 

Name Item number Quantity Description

hose 807611031 3 rubber elbows

Clamp oil hose 21351aa000 2 engine block / Oil cooler

hose clamps 805918010 4 crossover pipe / oil cooler

Cross over pipe 21328AA011 1

Edited October 2, 2014 by Rhitter

Few updates, got some new tire pressure gauges and found out that the small Slime one that I've been using is about 9psi off. So when I thought I've been filling up my tires to 36psi I've really been inflating them to 44ish psi!

 

Decided to do a highway trip with tire pressures being this high (since my big trip couple weeks ago was at same psi), planning on doing another highway trip soon with proper tire pressures though. Got 30.25mpg on my lowered boost tune, sadly I did forget to run AC since it was cold enough (60-65*F) outside.

 

Another thing I should mention, since I went to the new inlet and rerouted my PCV to have less vacuum (by being further away from turbo), my oil consumption has been reduced greatly! Trying to see how much oil I'm going through every 3k, before I was at 1qt every 1k miles. I'm using Valvoline 5w30.

 

 

The tune from mentioned above:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/MPG%20Tuning/MPG_WGDC_001.png~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/DPSTG2AVCS10.png~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Timing%20Advance/Timing70mph45deg.png~original

Edited October 5, 2014 by covertrussian

hmm, good find on the tire pressure guage. for some reason i used to be 100% confident in the one i have (even thiugh its the cheapest thing and quite hokey when you think about it). time to upgrade! makes me wonder what mine are at right now. i do sometimes get a tpms warning on hot days + long drives, and i just assumed it didn't like my 36 psi. i'm sure it doesn't like 44+!

I never considered it myself, but my two new gauges are within .5 psi of each other, and my third stick type is about 1psi off. Three gauges being close to each other yet wrong doesn't jive so has to be my other one.

 

Either way, decided to test the lower pressures, 36f/34r cold, went to the same neighboring city. The only real difference is the car did sit overnight and 4 extra city miles from my house to the highway. Got 27.36mpg, that's a good 3mpg loss. Hot tire pressure was 41f/39r psi, looks like a 5psi increase from cold pressure.

 

I'll check my cold tire pressure tomorrow to make sure it is at 36/34.

When I redid my rotors and pads, my driver side caliper guide and lock pins needed grease. Well I used synthetic axle grease, because it seemed to have worked on my Nissan. But the real difference is Subaru uses a rubber sleeve on lock pins, and regular grease will expand them.

 

Guide pin = Top one, all metal

Lock Pin = Bottom one, has rubber sleeve on the front of the pin

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Caliper%20Brackets/CIMG1054.jpg~original

 

This was fine until I had to take the last long trip where my front driverside brakes locked up. I spent about an hour regressing them in the advance auto parking lot. The guy at autoparts said they didn't really have any specific grease, I picked up some Lucas high heat heavy duty grease, but it didn't help either because yesterday the glide pin locked up again.

 

Got new guide pin boots and rubbers. You can see how much the lock pin rubbers expanded...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Caliper%20Brackets/20141016_182933.jpg~original

 

Doing some researched I found about Sil-Glyde and picked up a tube at Napa.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Caliper%20Brackets/20141016_183308.jpg~original

Edited October 17, 2014 by covertrussian

Sil glyde is great stuff! I use it on all my brake jobs at work. Toyotas have this same problem. 9 times out of 10 uneven inner and outer pad wear and warped rotors is caused by those swollen slide bushings.

That would explain why my pads were eaten at an angle. I'm still not sure why they bother using them, they seem to do more harm than good ha.

Well mostly for noise reduction and a little for how the pedal feels.

Without those bushings in there you would hear a clunk as everything torques up in the caliper assembly when you touch the brakes. They also reduce the amount of retraction by the caliper piston, which gives the pedal a higher feel (less travel)

My Infiniti G20 doesn't have them and has none of those, actually has firm and awesome pedal feel. But I will say they are single piston setups with smaller front brakes. But my forester has smaller sized brakes and has the rubbers (though I did leave it out on the rear because I couldn't get it back on there)

Double post

This post pretty much sums up how I feel about the stupid lock pin rubbers. I think I'm gonna just pull them out and not worry (I pulled one out on my Forester and have been driving it for 8 months with no issues).

Permatex makes a green grease in a white bottle, been using that for years on the slide pins.

Sil glyde is great stuff! I use it on all my brake jobs at work. Toyotas have this same problem. 9 times out of 10 uneven inner and outer pad wear and warped rotors is caused by those swollen slide bushings.

 

Aha! Wonder if that's why I keep getting vibration on my brakes when cold, and it eventually goes away when they heat up? Does that sounds like these bushings? Maybe I should just throw mine away and try to re-bed? Or a new set of rotors/pads?

 

The brake shake/shimmy on this car has been the worst of any car I've driven. Not saying the braking power itself is that bad with the right pads, but just annoying as hell. A couple of times I've replaced rotors/pads just to try to cure it, and it's helped for a while, but it always comes back...

It could be, definitly worth trying replacing them at very least. I'm pulling mine out tonight and going on a roadtrip tomorrow, so will see if the MPG improves. If it does then my brakes have been slightly dragging.

Hardest mod you can do... replacing the air filter.

 

Part number: 16546AA10A

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Airfilter/CIMG1688.jpg~original

 

New filter vs old, the old one was a denso one, but didn't seem like an oem Subaru one, due to not having any part numbers or Subaru naming on it.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Airfilter/CIMG1687.jpg~original

 

Installing it is super hard, remove the air intake undo the clips and pop it out.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Airfilter/CIMG1686.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Airfilter/CIMG1691.jpg~original

 

 

Here is where it gets interesting; Learning views, For airflow A range (0-<5.60) ecu started adding a lot more fuel at idle. This is probably due to the new filter flowing more air in, thus it started becoming leaner at idle.

 

Old Filter:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Airfilter/LVOldFilter120m.jpg~original

 

New OEM Filter:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Airfilter/LVOEMFilter150m.jpg~original

Edited October 29, 2014 by covertrussian

What do the Atm Pressure, IAT and ECT differences have to do with it too.

 

Sorry, I know it all effects A/F ratio but haven't got a clue what does what with out having to think about it for a while.

just my 2 cents on the brake rubber issues- I put a reman caliper on my right front after it locked up on me before last winter- car sits alot in winter- the caliper that was replaced locked up solid after sitting for a few weeks at a time- the lower slide pin was stuck- I removed the rubbers and havent had any issues since- just used a little more grease to stop any rattles, seems to be fine almost a year later

What do the Atm Pressure, IAT and ECT differences have to do with it too.

 

Sorry, I know it all effects A/F ratio but haven't got a clue what does what with out having to think about it for a while.

 

Looking at the wrong thing, I'm talking about the airflow ranges 0-<5.60.

 

Atm pressure, IAT and ECT are not related, they just show you the current numbers at the time of the log. I live 1300ft above sea level, where weather is fairly wacky pressure wises, so my barometric pressures change a lot. This is why I always note down temperature and pressure for my virtual dyno logs, they make a huge difference in making sure I have consistent logs.

 

 

just my 2 cents on the brake rubber issues- I put a reman caliper on my right front after it locked up on me before last winter- car sits alot in winter- the caliper that was replaced locked up solid after sitting for a few weeks at a time- the lower slide pin was stuck- I removed the rubbers and havent had any issues since- just used a little more grease to stop any rattles, seems to be fine almost a year later

 

Yup I pulled them out. Both on my Forester XT and on my Legacy. Got fed up with them.

 

I may eventually replace the lower guide pins with the non bushing ones.

 

Yup I pulled them out. Both on my Forester XT and on my Legacy. Got fed up with them.

 

I may eventually replace the lower guide pins with the non bushing ones.

 

I've pulled all the rubber sleeves off my guide pins, they were causing the pins to seize. Literary had to pound 2 of them out with a hammer. It's been 4 years now without the rubber sleeves and haven't had a single issue, nor notice any difference in braking.

The other day I noticed that outbacks have a pretty aggressive looking hoods. This makes me want one, I was hoping they made it like that with a hood scoop, but they don't. If I go front mount than getting this hood could be an option.

 

http://www.europeansauto.com/images/cars/6/2316/b/20140708114400_874298916.jpg

 

It reminds me of the GTR, that's probably why I like it

http://images.thecarconnection.com/lrg/2015-nissan-gt-r_100447294_l.jpg

Have you seen Sgt. Gators hood he built for his race wagon? It's pretty sweet.

Have you seen Sgt. Gators hood he built for his race wagon? It's pretty sweet.

 

This one?

 

Yep, that's the one. On my phone so I didn't link it.

First of all, I enjoy your thread very much. It's the go-to place for repair. Thank you for all the time and effort in giving our community the walk-through thread.

 

I do want to mention that the hood scoop is functional, not only to direct air to the TMIC, but also it directs air over the turbo heatshield. I would consider airflow over the turbo when thinking about a hood that doesn't have a hood scoop.