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Rear Toe-in bolt seized. Rear LCA Question.


Ryandigi

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Installed my rallitek springs and went to get the alignment done at a local shop. Nothing was out of whack (nailed the camber thanks to pre-marking) except for the rear wheels toe-in.

 

Anyways the left rear toe-in bolt was seized and nothing worked to get it loose (even a torch). He thinks he will have to torch it off but it would melt the rear bushing to somthing like pizza cheeze I presume. I have read a few reviews on the AVO bushings, Superpros, and Perrins and may as well upgrade.

 

My question is......are all control arm bushings equal, as in will they install in the front or the rear control arms? Everything I read on vendors web sites are for front control arms so I am assuming these are also made for rear control arm replacements as well? Sorry if it is a dumb question, I just want to correct that toe-in as my steering still feels off from before the spring install. Thanks!

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I think you're talking about two different things. The bushings you have listed are for the front lower control arm, they will do nothing for the rear.

 

I just replaced both of my rear busings and cams as they were seized as well. Just order the parts from a subaru part supplier and get it done. I think the bushings are $10 each, and the cams are $8 each.

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The rear lateral link indeed has rubber bushings. You'll have to replace the entire link if you melt the bushing. I don't think there are aftermarket replacements for them. I think WL has something for thr front lateral link (of the rear suspension) only. There are STI branded links with pillowball bushings ($$$).

 

These bolts can be pita. I get alignment done like few times a year so I don't give them a chance to seize up. Also it's a good idea to replace nuts every time the alignment is done, they are only $.40 or so. Also put anti-seize on the inside of the bolt to prevent it rusting to the inside of the bushing.

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The rear lateral link indeed has rubber bushings. You'll have to replace the entire link if you melt the bushing. I don't think there are aftermarket replacements for them. I think WL has something for thr front lateral link (of the rear suspension) only. There are STI branded links with pillowball bushings ($$$).

 

These bolts can be pita. I get alignment done like few times a year so I don't give them a chance to seize up. Also it's a good idea to replace nuts every time the alignment is done, they are only $.40 or so. Also put anti-seize on the inside of the bolt to prevent it rusting to the inside of the bushing.

 

Thanks for the info from both of you. Guess I was a little confused. So I need the entire link huh, guess I will call parts department and see if I can relay this info.

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Update: Subaru told me it could be the Lateral arm, transverse link, or the lower control arm assembly (knuckle and bearing). The last option is lots of bucks compared to the other two. So basically they keep insisting that all three of these are used to adjust toe....I don't really believe that is the case. Do you know with relative surety that it is the lateral link that is commonly used to adjust toe on our cars by alignment shops?

 

Subaru wants $150-225 to fix what should not be a huge problem on a car with 26k on her. If you think it is wise I think I am going to grab the lateral link and take it to the alignment shop where they will finish the job for me for free (well previously paid amount). Thanks.

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Update: Subaru told me it could be the Lateral arm, transverse link, or the lower control arm assembly (knuckle and bearing). The last option is lots of bucks compared to the other two. So basically they keep insisting that all three of these are used to adjust toe....I don't really believe that is the case. Do you know with relative surety that it is the lateral link that is commonly used to adjust toe on our cars by alignment shops?

 

Subaru wants $150-225 to fix what should not be a huge problem on a car with 26k on her. If you think it is wise I think I am going to grab the lateral link and take it to the alignment shop where they will finish the job for me for free (well previously paid amount). Thanks.

 

If the adjuster bolt is frozen then it is the rear link. Adjusting rear camber can change toe in, but that is not the problem.

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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My bolts seized up too. Royal PITA. Spent many hours under my car grinding them out.

 

To adjust camber you only need adjustable lower link. If you lower your car a certain amount, or want a certain amount of negative camber you will have to get adjustable toe control arms.

 

On my car I was able to get about -1.0 of rear camber, but that was with the adjustable lower link, and the rear toe maxxed out. Anymore negative rear camber requires he adjustable toe control arm, which doesn't seem to exist yet, but hopefully soon.

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So you need to get the old link out. Once you do that you have two options, replace the whole thing, or press the bushing out.

 

Option 1:

#30 Rear link 20250AE080 $58.18

#32 Cam bolt 901700122 $4.37

Flange nut 901000110 $1.77

 

Option 2:

#31 Bushing 20250AE01A $10.47

#32 Cam bolt 901700122 $4.37

Flange nut 901000110 $1.77

 

You should be able to grind through the old bolt with an angle grinder or you could use a sawzall to cut through. Be careful not to damage the surrounding link or the carrier.

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So you need to get the old link out. Once you do that you have two options, replace the whole thing, or press the bushing out.

 

Option 1:

#30 Rear link 20250AE080 $58.18

#32 Cam bolt 901700122 $4.37

Flange nut 901000110 $1.77

 

Option 2:

#31 Bushing 20250AE01A $10.47

#32 Cam bolt 901700122 $4.37

Flange nut 901000110 $1.77

 

You should be able to grind through the old bolt with an angle grinder or you could use a sawzall to cut through. Be careful not to damage the surrounding link or the carrier.

 

Where did you find this amazing diagram? All of you have been a great help, the subaru parts and service departments are clueless around here :mad:

 

Thanks a bunch, hope to get this fixed and my car's steering feeling great again.

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  • 1 month later...

My rear control arm bushing is going bad and it clunks. Any ideas on what I should do.

 

My Rear Toe Bolts also rusted.....Good thing replacements are only 4 dollars.

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  • 5 months later...

Guys,

I also having problem on rear left chamber after I lower my car with tein coilover it -1.66°, right is acceptable -1.11°. According to the technician who alignment my car there no way to adjust it as you know there is no nuts to adjust the toe-rod except if you can modify with other type of toe-rod that he also don’t know what model can fit in.

However, I just crossover Perrin Rear Lower Control Arm, it is this we are looking for? Or anybody outside there found out the rear adjustable toe-rod I mean. I still not happy with my current chamber now.

Perrin.JPG.45d5b94844c0c4969283a7229390543a.JPG

3567.jpg.40bd8602867a330b5aa3f8cea785fde6.jpg

3566.jpg.9419232628626af1ca6c5420ed3cee28.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

After doing some searching, I find that this old thread is close to my situation.

 

My car is on Rallitech springs and i just changed the front bushings to poly. Additionally, I picked up some new tires. The wear on the old tires indicated that something was well off with the right rear alignment so i dropped it off with the dealer to do an alignment after they swapped out the tires.

 

So i get the phone call to tell me that they can't do the alignment because one of the rear adjusting bolts is seized. They then told me that I need a replacement control arm to the tune of $400(!!) to fix the issue. I said no thanks and picked the car up to fix whatever myself.

 

They were nice enough to provide the initial reading of alignment before they started (which I've hopefully attached) but could not tell me which arm they intended to replace. The tech had gone home by that time.

 

I got under the car and confirmed that the adjusting bolt is indeed seized on the right side so I'll be ordering a 20250AE01A control arm W/ bushing, a 901700154 adjusting bolt and a 901000110 nut to fix that. Actually, I'll probably order two of each and do both sides at once.

 

BUT, looking at the readings, I'm not sure this will fix the alignment. I'm used to doing my own alignments using very old school methods so I may be misunderstanding what the readout is telling me. What i gather is that I've got negative 1.3deg camber and I am toed out .22 (I have confirmed myself that the the tire is toed out with about a .375" difference from the front of the tire to the back). Since there is only one adjustment point which adjusts both toe and camber at once, i believe that i would be adding more negative camber if i tried adjusting in the toe in. And if i were to focus on reducing negative camber I'd be increasing toe out. Someone please correct me if i'm wrong in this thinking.

 

 

Thanks

1100011835_Subarualignment10-19-11.jpg.f6d1fcf04fd6505caf84fc9b50316396.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

The above info has some incorrect part #s for the hardware required.

 

The correct part #'s for an 05' LGT are:

 

cam bolt - 901700122

cam washer - 903100171

additional washer - 902350006

locking nut - 20560AA011

 

Additionally, Autozone, Napa and the like have a bolt kit that they say is for the LGT (Moog part # K5330) but it is not. Do not get this part.

 

I replaced the whole control arm and put new bolts in. Toe is now where i want it at just under 1/4" in from the front of the tire to the back. I haven't had time to do an accurate read on the camber yet.

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  • 5 weeks later...

so my left rear is locked up as well. I have not yet poked my head under there yet as I just got back from the shop.... but to be clear, how do you remove it? the bolt that is... they said they could turn it, but the "cam" would not rotate, so I am assuming I'll have to heat the hell out of it with a torch? this is what then kills the bushing that needs to be replaced? I have a shop that can press the bushings so I am not worried about the car being down for a moment.... but wanna make sure all that needs to be done is obtained first.

 

any thoughts on how best to remove it, I dont have an angle grinder so I cant just eat it out in chunks.

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  • 1 month later...
So you need to get the old link out. Once you do that you have two options, replace the whole thing, or press the bushing out.

 

Option 1:

#30 Rear link 20250AE080 $58.18

#32 Cam bolt 901700122 $4.37

Flange nut 901000110 $1.77

 

Option 2:

#31 Bushing 20250AE01A $10.47

#32 Cam bolt 901700122 $4.37

Flange nut 901000110 $1.77

 

You should be able to grind through the old bolt with an angle grinder or you could use a sawzall to cut through. Be careful not to damage the surrounding link or the carrier.

 

 

There is also a bushing at the top of the rear lateral traverse bar. It is near the diff, both of mine are bad on the left and right side of the car. Is the other bushing available seperately?

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  • 3 months later...

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