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thermo tec exhaust wrap


bosco

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i have used thermo tec exhaust wrap many times in the past with great results, all previous apps. where na high performance street engines, since i'm in a learning curve with turbo engines i would like the forums thoughts on this product on a turbo, thermo tec will be used for up/dp and also their turbo insulating kit, i have checked search threads and did not find a answer, not interested in coated pipes (jet coat, ect,) bosco
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Their products do work. However, they tend to trap moisture, which will eat away at the underlying piping. Also, from time to time, you will need to re-wrap as they get increasing exposure to water, road grime, etc...

 

If wrapped correctly and protectant spray is used, they should last for quite a while.

 

Also, you would not use the wrap tape on the turbo, that's what turbo blankets are for. DEI has a universal blanket kit, and there are others out there (I think Garrett sells one) that are pre-made/sown

2012 Forester XT. Stage 2+

Retired from Racing. I used to build FMIC and more.

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If wrapped correctly and protectant spray is used, they should last for quite a while.

 

you beat me to it......

 

 

 

i have the header/up/turbo/dp wrapped, i did it in stages. first was the up/dp/turbo, i gained 3psi (max 27 should have been 24 at that time)of boost that had to be tuned out of it. i later wrapped the header gaining ANOTHER 3psi that had to be tuned out...........on the plus side, with this retune, i am now at 21.5psi and 15hp 20+tq more at a lower psi. the response with all the parts is instant, lag? whats that? scans will tell you he has been in the car.

 

 

on the down side, wrapping the exhaust and turbo WILL shorten the life of those items. headers will crack and turbos will need to be rebuilt sooner due the higher temps held in the turbo for longer time. with the headers it is not a question of "if they crack", rather when they will. it may be 5 years maybe 1year or even 6 months. its kind of a catch 22. even they spray on the wrap. the header cracks from uneven heat expansion of the pipe, ID vs OD.

 

 

ted

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The thing with the spray is that it absolutely cannot prevent the wrap from holding condensation against the pipes every morning/evening. It is great for preventing drips from your engine compartment from soaking into the wrap and causing a fire, or splashes of water, etc, from soaking in, but you parts ARE going to look like swamp thing after a short while regardless of where you live and whether or not it rains, and what grade stainless they are (although I would not expect titanium or any of the brand name stainless steels [like Waspalloy or Inconel] to rust from condensation).

 

As mentioned, wrap causes metal fatigue. So does coating only the outside of a pipe. It's more of a concern on a turbo application because not only do the cars see significantly higher temperatures than your average N/A application, but they go through heat cycles significantly faster. Both of these things stress exhaust pieces, and wrap adds to that stress.

 

That said, I still think it's worth it for the performance benefits, which are noticeable.

 

However, our coating is something you should consider. It's more effective than fiberglass wrap, not too much more expensive, lasts the lifetime of your parts, and increases the lifetime of your parts... because not only does it keep all of the heat inside of your exhaust and prevent nearly any radiation of heat at all, but it protects the metal itself. We coat inside-and-out, and that inside coating means the piping sees less heat and less heat cycling to smaller extremes. Additionally, the coating protects the metal from the corrosive elements in exhaust gas, from the outside elements like rain and salt, and from anything under the hood that might drip on it.

 

The stuff we use is $330 per gallon -- plus shipping ;) -- and is the most effective thermal barrier available. We fully prep the parts, use a special base coat (which is like $270/gallon), bake it for an hour at ~ 500 degrees, apply the top coat, bake for an hour at ~ 720 degrees, and voila. You get parts that look like this:

 

http://www.crucialracing.com/images/manfold%20pics/manifold_elbow_finished_1.jpg

 

http://www.crucialracing.com/images/manfold%20pics/twin_scroll_after_complete.jpg

 

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/post-24-1131596204.jpg

 

 

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/post-24-1133302841.jpg

 

 

It comes in black, but, if you would like, we can always do it in black for you. ;)

 

...anyway... always an option. We do a lot of turbine housings as well. The coating is good up to 2400 degrees, far beyond the point where your engine melts :lol:. It does what it's supposed to.

 

Jeremy

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Personally I'm a fan of coatings over wraps, as you do not have to worry about the wrap coming off, etc. with a coating and capabilities are similar. a coated and wrapped pipe is nice too.... heat will weaken welds over time... but not sure how that would effect stainless.... mild-steel will rust with trapped moisture like a champ. it will discolor stainless, and eventually allow even stainless to oxidize... but I wonder if wrap would cause a "swamp-thing" effect within the life-time of the performance part/car (usually 7 years) anyone seen this occur on stainless?

 

Crucial, any problems reported with the coating on the flange faces?

2012 Forester XT. Stage 2+

Retired from Racing. I used to build FMIC and more.

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