Bolt up turbocharger upgrade - Vol-2

BlackPearl, what was the final judgement on the BNR Turbo? Seems as though you went through a lot on fitment. I'm looking a t buying an 18g, however I'm not installing it and at $85.00 shop rate I want that to go smooth.

 

Thanks for your postings

Honestly, if I had a heads up or had seen it mentioned somewhere in the threads beforehand, it wouldn't have been as bad. The clocking of the two housings seemed to be the biggest probelm I had.

I got the hard coolant lines to mount to the housing after I slit the mounting holes on the tabs.

 

I'm a wrenchhead but this is my first turbo car, which means the first turbo car I've worked on as well. And I overthink everything.

 

The turbo looks very nice and seems high quality IMO. I'do it again if I had to.

Edited October 22, 2013 by TheBlackPearl

I did my 18g but my motor was out, I think all I needed to do was bend a coolant line a little but that was it. Getting the inlet tube in was a mother trucker though.

 

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

I can't get the compressor housing to rotate in/on the hot side for the life of me.

I busted a knuckle and almost pooped my pants trying to.

Thinking I need to take this turbo back out to clock it correctly.

I hope somebody tells me I'm wrong.

 

Any one have some insight on this? I've scoured the threads and only found the above.

 

My situation does not look I need to "slightly rotate the housing".

Mine is like 10º and an inch off.

 

Bolting up the IC and getting an O2 bung welded into my DP are the only things uoldng me up now.

My LC-1 will be here Monday so I can start logging.

 

Edit:

Got it finally.

I had to wrestle the hell out of the TMIC and reposition the TB hose but it's all back together.

It's definitely not in the same spot as when I took it off though as I had to redrill to driver side bracket to get the IC to bolt up. Eh well, whatever.

 

Sorry about the clocking issue. Tell me which way the turbine housing or compressor housing needs to be clocked. If my jig needs altered, it needs to happen quickly.

 

As for the water lines, I have them made, just waiting for them to come in.

 

Bryan@BNR

205 640 1193

#1 is the Water pipe P/N: 14472AA091

 

#5 is the Oil supply pipe P/N: 14192AA490

 

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495104001.png

I'm wanting 300whp on pump gas without maxing out a turbo and without the lag of a 20G.

 

I've saw some 300hp bnr18g and 20g. How much lag difference is there.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

subscribe

As for the water lines, I have them made, just waiting for them to come in.

Any chance I could get one even post-sale?

It's all good, through the whole cutting, and bending crap, i blamed the water pipe, not the turbo. Subaru should have known better

I've saw some 300hp bnr18g and 20g. How much lag difference is there.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

 

BNR 18G

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=141668&d=1360518750

 

BNR 20G

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=154011&d=1370635957

The vf48 is a direct bolt-on correct? Good, cheap, replacement turbo for modest numbers on my LGT (260-280hp)?

 

Edit: Just read my answer in another thread

Edited November 12, 2013 by BoozeRS05

BNR 18G

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=141668&d=1360518750

 

BNR 20G

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=154011&d=1370635957

 

I actually have a new TD05 High flow turbine wheel that spools very well with the 20G. I think this 20G is a standard TD05H turbine wheel!

 

Bryan@BNR

205 640 1193

TheBlackPearl, what was your final solution? just crank on the TMIC till it fit?

Bryan, on mine there is a 0.65" raise on the TMIC on the LH side of the TMIC, the TMIC is ~16.5" long, so we're looking at a 2.25 degree counter clockwise rotation (looking from the back of the turbo to the front)

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/TMIC_Bracket_dimensioned_zps7a9c3c1c.jpg

So, is the compressor housing pinned? should we be able to re-clock the housing ourselves?

When BNR started to make thier own hot and cold sections, did anything change vs the original vf40 housing? Like different exhaust/ air flow, design, etc. Or is everything identical ?

 

Just curious as I have Bnr's vf40 rebuild 18g and not the i"n house" BNR 18g.

I actually have a new TD05 High flow turbine wheel that spools very well with the 20G. I think this 20G is a standard TD05H turbine wheel!

 

Bryan@BNR

205 640 1193

 

Since I'll be pulling my turbo to do other work I'm curious to know the cost to upgrade from a TD05 to a TD05H (and more details about the change).

TheBlackPearl, what was your final solution? just crank on the TMIC till it fit?

 

I was able to rotate the compressor housing ever so slightly. I don't think the housings are pinned.

I ended up getting the TMIC outlet into the TB hose first, then rotated the TB hose around to find the position that gave me the most 'throw', tightened the c-clamps, then pushed/pulled the TMIC to line up the TMIC flange to the compressor side outlet.

It wasn't too bad.

Bryan,

We indicated the stock (VF40) turbo, from the turbine inlet to the compressor exhaust, and found the planes to be parallel within 1 thousands of an inch.

Did the same w/ the 16g, not even close, so we setup some blocks, loosened the clamp and re-clocked the compressor housing (i guess technically it's clocking the turbine housing, but either way).

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo1_zpsee2a3e9c.jpg

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo2_zps28fd48ec.jpg

Fixed:

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo3_zps15abdd0e.jpg

 

So.. those looking for 'fix' the clocking issue, get a VERY FLAT surface (Table saw top, granite countertop, something like that), and use a square (or precision ground blocks ) to re-align the housing. The bolt on the clamp is 13mm. Not sure what the toque spec is, but just eyeballed the amount of thread sticking out the top.

Edit: Torque is ~10ft-lbs (at least that's what my wrench says to get the right 'thread showing'

Edited November 12, 2013 by Andyjo
Wrong bolt size, 13mm not 14mm

Bryan,

We indicated the stock (VF40) turbo, from the turbine inlet to the compressor exhaust, and found the planes to be parallel within 1 thousands of an inch.

Did the same w/ the 16g, not even close, so we setup some blocks, loosened the clamp and re-clocked the compressor housing (i guess technically it's clocking the turbine housing, but either way).

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo1_zpsee2a3e9c.jpg

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo2_zps28fd48ec.jpg

Fixed:

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo3_zps15abdd0e.jpg

 

So.. those looking for 'fix' the clocking issue, get a VERY FLAT surface (Table saw top, granite countertop, something like that), and use a square (or precision ground blocks ) to re-align the housing. The bolt on the clamp is 13mm. Not sure what the toque spec is, but just eyeballed the amount of thread sticking out the top.

Edit: Torque is ~10ft-lbs (at least that's what my wrench says to get the right 'thread showing'

 

You turned exhaust housing or compressor housing? Exhaust housing is pinned on IHI VF series turbos to ensure that it's aligned correctly. The compressor housing, while it looks like it's only clamped on with bolts/washers, it's actually sealed with high temperature silicone from the compressor backing plate to the compressor housing. If you turned this even slightly, you most likely tore the silicone seal and probably created what will turn out to be a boost leak right where the backing plate and compressor housing meet.

 

I completely agree that the planes on the both of the flanges need to be exactly parallel and if they aren't it becomes quite a pain to try to hook up the TMIC and both UP and DP without everything leaking. If I were you, I would be wary of the possible boost leak and look for it after you install the turbo or you could just remove the compressor housing, clean off all of the silicone, and then re-seal it with it in the correct position. This will eliminate the worry of possible boost leak.

No one has sated if Bryans housings are pinned. If so, I posted the "how to" on rotating pinned housings a few years back. I used a HTA68 for the write up. OEM turbos use silicone at the backing plate, but most aftermarket turbos use an o-ring so rotating is not an issue.

Sorry if i said it oddly, i rotated the turbine housing, by loosening the clamp, and turning it the... 2 degrees or whatever it took, felt like it could rotate alot more, but we didn't try. It did not appear to be pinned (otherwise it wouldn't have turned). I didn't have to take the clamp off, or really loosen the nut that much, was very easy once it was loose.

I'm not worried about a boost leak, since i didn't actually touch the compressor to turbo-goodness section ;-)

Please forgive me if I spoke out of line. I've not had a BNR apart as of yet (I do have a new BNR 16G on the shelf) so I'm not familiar with his internal assembly. If he does use an O-ring, that certainly is a lot easier and more forgiving when needing to rotate the compressor housing.

Please forgive me if I spoke out of line. I've not had a BNR apart as of yet (I do have a new BNR 16G on the shelf) so I'm not familiar with his internal assembly. If he does use an O-ring, that certainly is a lot easier and more forgiving when needing to rotate the compressor housing.

 

When you loosen the band, you're technically rotating the turbine housing, whichever way you look at it, has the same effect in the end

Just out of curiosity, did you check the CHRA clocking to the the housings?

Just out of curiosity, did you check the CHRA clocking to the the housings?

 

Nope, i could do it w/ the OEM one, but the BNR one is stuffed in my engine pay right now

Gotcha, I'll check mine with it arrives