Bolt up turbocharger upgrade - Vol-2

The 4th gen and 08+ WRX 5MTs are identical. Dual AVCS is shared with the STI, which, guess what, also has ringland problems. A good E85 tune is less likely to cause a failure than a pump-gas 20G tune, because most failures are caused by knock, and E85 does not knock (hardly ever, at least), and pump gas on high boost does. Sounds like the E85 guy (Surly, right?) had a bad tune and/or just got unlucky.

Yeah, surly is the one. From what I read he was filling up e85 without testing it as often as he should. Long term I'm hoping to run e85 20G. I know I'm setting myself up for an engine build/explosion but we'll see how long it takes me to get there.

Nice. I'd like to swap out my VF40 (going on 100k mi.) and go to either a 16g or 18g. Probably won't happen for awhile though

My VF40 just went out a couple of weeks ago. I decided to upgrade to the 16g because of the reviews on here and that it was half the cost of the stock turbo. At least from the dealer I am dealing with. I am just waiting on infamous to deliver the oil filter kit and I will be back in business.

I had a couple of basic questions that I can't seem to find the answers to here. One is if the boost is controlled by the ecu will I see any increase in power without a full retune. Second do I need to keep the car running to cool down the turbo after I arrive anywhere. This is what the dealers service guy said to do.

My VF40 just went out a couple of weeks ago. I decided to upgrade to the 16g because of the reviews on here and that it was half the cost of the stock turbo. At least from the dealer I am dealing with. I am just waiting on infamous to deliver the oil filter kit and I will be back in business.

 

I had a couple of basic questions that I can't seem to find the answers to here. One is if the boost is controlled by the ecu will I see any increase in power without a full retune. Second do I need to keep the car running to cool down the turbo after I arrive anywhere. This is what the dealers service guy said to do.

For your first question, you should get a tune... I know of people running a 16g without one, but I can't see it being a good idea. Not sure if you'll see an increase in power, but I can say that you won't take advantage of the turbo without one, and I will speculate that it is dangerous to boost without it.

I have a write up in our forum (as well as the technical forums) explaining how the turbo liquid cooling system works and why you do not need to cool down or run a turbo timer.

BNR customers still get $25 off an e-tune.

You do realize that engine internals are roughly the same and that the 5th-gen 6MT is just a 4th-gen 5MT with an extra gear (not the STI 6MT), right? You're going to have the exact same potential for reliability problems on your 5th gen that someone would have if they put a 20G on a 4th gen.

I'm not familiar with the tranny that's in the 4th gen but my understanding is the 5th gen tranny is actually out of a WRX with a 6th gear crammed in. I'm not saying there won't be reliability problems but we won't know till someone tries. So far there are only 2 know 20G 5th gens and neither of them have exploded (at least that the owners have admitted). The only documented 5th gen engine failure is from someone running E85. It will be interesting to see how things like dual AVCS and the bottom mount turbo affect reliability and driveability.

It's actually the euro-spec 6MT that Subaru is putting behind the 2.0TD Forester and Legacy. So it can handle a lot of torque.

Just wish that it had a better shifter interface. Read: less vague and clunky. Otherwise should be okay for everything all day long - except 5K clutch drops.

This is semi related, does anyone know what a stock BPV can hold?

Mine is bleeding of at 8-10 psi.

This is semi related, does anyone know what a stock BPV can hold?

Mine is bleeding of at 8-10 psi.

It likely is cracked around the bottom periphery of the top part, or it's leaking around the gasket (O-ring). Should hold to 17psi without issue.

It likely is cracked around the bottom periphery of the top part, or it's leaking around the gasket (O-ring). Should hold to 17psi without issue.

This is an aftermarket hybrid of some sort. (don't remember brand )

I'm front mounted, so I pressurize the system to check for leaks under boost and the BPV opens at 8 psi, at 10psi its dumping pretty well.

Sorry, thought you were referring to a stock BPV.

However, if this is an AM BOV, and it's a vacuum controlled unit, you'd need to be putting vaccum to it at the same time that you're pressure-testing, or it will likely bleed.

isn't that vacuum actually helping it open? Unless that line see's boost help keeping it closed?

Its not a blow off, its a recirculation valve.

Its not a Honda

In our typical Subaru setups, the BPV/DV is positioned on the intercooler, between the turbo and the throttle body. The vacuum hose attached to the valve, is attached to the manifold behind the throttle body and a spring mechanism holds the valve shut.

On-throttle, the pressure in the throttle piping and the intake manifold itself is equal, so the pressure on each side of the valve is equalized and the spring holds the valve shut.

Off-throttle, creates an abundance of pressure in the throttle piping, and combined with the reduced vacuum in the inlet manifold, enables the compressor pressure on the bottom of the valve, coupled with the vacuum on the top, to overcome the spring pressure and force the valve open to allow boost pressure to escape.

If you are pressure testing your system (with throttle body shut), without a vacuum to equalize the two pressures on the valve, then you may overcome spring pressure and vent prematurely.

Just a thought.

Help me decide. I've already got an AVO TMIC waiting.

Go with BNR16Gnow and stop the spending, retune and be happy?

or keep buying, go with ID 850's, DW65c AND a BNR16 or 18G?

... First world problems.

I like the 16G. I'd give you a ride in my car when we do the trunk swap, but my 16G is still on the shelf. But it was great on my 05.

lol nice.

Part of me wants to do it right and just wait a bit and spend more money... the other part is excited that I could potentially run the 16G on stock fueling and be up and running in another few weeks .

Oh and the additional $700 or so is a factor as well . There is no shot for E85 in these parts so that temptation doesn't even exist.

How are these holding up so far?

If your referring to the new housing... im curious as well. I don't think I've seen any results or comments since Bryan has changed to his new housings... I guess no new is good news.

Here is me with the new housing

%5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i156.photobucket.com/albums/t4/87conquestTSi/dyno05LGT_zps8bb76191.jpg[/img]

6k miles

I wish he would update his website... The only way anybody could figure out all these changes in policy, pricing and details would be from combing through 2 threads and 2000+ posts lol.

That being said I think I'm going to go with the 16G and be happy with it. I'll most likely run it on stock fueling as well.

I have the BNR EVO3 16g on a MY09 Forester XT and have just finished the e-tuning process with TorquedPerformance, very happy with the results. Compared to the stock TD04 which I had running well, this obviously spools a fair bit later, but after 3,300rpm it pulls hard and keeps pulling hard all the way to redline. I was hoping by some freak it might spool earlier but in reality it's about what I expected - but the top end (on stock injectors) has far outweighed my expectations

Forester MY09, 5MT with the following mods:

- BNR EVO3 16g Turbo (with the new BNR compressor cover)

- IP&T Filtered Turbo Oil Supply Line Kit

- TCP Turbo Back Exhaust

- Turbosmart 'Kompact' BPV

- AEM CAI

- Process West TMIC

- Perrin Silicone Turbo Inlet

- Grimmspeed 3 Port BCS

- DW65c Fuel Pump

- Iridium '1 Step Colder' Plugs

We ran one tune up to 21psi with richer AFR's towards redline to see what it had, but that was pushing the IDC's and boost a bit higher than I wanted as a daily. The tune I have settled on hits just on 20psi and runs a bit leaner towards redline to keep IDC's in check.

NOTE: I use Virtual Dyno for my own comparisons only. The stretch of road I use is 'almost' dead flat but dips down ever so slightly in the middle and back up towards the end. Very slightly.

http://beanstalk.com.au/personal/photos/FXT/VD_20130402_BNR16G_20and21psi.jpg