A Beginner's Guide to Balanced, Budget Mods

A Beginner's Guide to Balanced, Budget Mods

The purpose of this article is simple: To provide a basic starting point for new people new to the Legacy to use as they begin modifying their car. The target audience is new to modding in general, or at least new to modding the Legacy. I am encouraging the audience to keep the car “balanced”, by simultaneously upgrading the car’s handling, braking, and appearance in addition to its power. I have refrained from mentioning brand names whenever possible, as I want to keep this resource as neutral as possible. Having said that, I caution the reader that this document is just based my opinion. Other members of the forum will have their own advice based on their own experiences. Everyone has a different driving style, copes with different road conditions, and has different concepts as far as things like “performance” and “budget”. Finally, modding a car is a personal experience. It enables you to take a car and mold it into the car of your dreams (at least in part). Everyone has their own “dream” car. Make the Legacy a car you will remember for a lifetime.

Assumptions

This resource assumes several things:

• You have (or are planning to acquire) a US or Canadian-spec 2005+ Legacy GT (including 2.5L Spec.B).

• You would like to improve the car’s appearance and overall performance (power, handling, and braking).

• You would like to improve the car without spending money on parts or labor that don’t yield a lot of return (i.e. – “Bang for the buck”).

• You would like to preserve the overall comfort level and all-season capability of the car.

First Mods

Budget: <$1000 total

At this point you have a stock (or very near stock car). It has a good amount of power, handles fairly well for a “family sedan”, and offers a nice array of safety features. So, where should you begin making improvements to your car, while keeping your bank account (relatively) intact?

POWER: Panel or “drop-in” filter

• What it is: This is simply an air filter element that flows more air than the stock element.

• What it costs: Around $50 (new).

• Why consider it: A great first “mod”, a performance-oriented panel filter can provide sharper throttle response and slightly more power. Some people feel the difference, others don’t. For the price, it is hard to go wrong, however, as most panel filters are washable (unlike the paper OE filter) so they can be run for many miles without the need for replacement. In addition to (potentially) feeling a bit more power, a panel filter may increase the sound of your car’s intake system. You will likely hear more of a slight “whoosh” sound coming from the front of your car, which many people like. This mod is essentially invisible, as the filter is enclosed within the factory airbox.

• Self install: Yes. Even your grandma could install this piece.

BRAKING & HANDLING: Better Tires

• What it is: Let’s face it – no matter how fancy your suspension is, how awesome your all-wheel drive system is, or how great your brakes are, at the end of the day it all comes down to four small “contact” patches where the rubber literally meets the road.

• What it costs: Much better than OE tires can be purchased for $100-160 each.

• Why consider it: The stock Bridgestone RE92 tires are not oriented towards the performance driver. They are (at best) mediocre, and (at worst) can be quite dangerous. There are many excellent tires available in the ultra-high performance all-season category that provide better handling in dry, wet, or occasional light snow conditions than the stock tires ever could. If you just purchased the car, there’s no need to run out and replace the RE92s immediately, but you should drive with additional caution until you have put enough miles on them to justify replacement. If you value performance (and many would argue safety) more than thrift, then it is definitely worth considering an upgrade.

• Self install: No.

HANDLING: Rear Sway Bar

• What it is: A sway or anti-roll bar that replaces the factory piece with a stiffer bar. You’ll often see it abbreviated as ‘RSB’ or ‘ARB’ on forums.

• What it costs: $150 to $200

• Why consider it: The Legacy has fairly neutral handling during normal driving but, like most cars, it will understeer when pushed hard. In addition, aggressive corners are accompanied by a good amount of body roll. These characteristic s can be improved upon by the installation of a larger rear sway bar (or antiroll bar). At the risk of getting flamed by some of the suspension gurus on this site, I’ll try to explain its function. The sway bar more evenly distributes the cornering load between both sides of your suspension, thus keeping the car (overall) more “planted”. You have many choices for sway bar upgrades, the differences basically come down to the following: thickness and construction. The increased stiffness of the bar can be achieved via greater than stock thickness, sturdier than stock construction, or a combination. The stock bar is a hollow piece of steel measuring (I believe) 16mm. An aftermarket RSB is always of greater diameter, and sometimes made of solid (rather than hollow) construction. In general, a solid bar is going to offer more stiffness than a hollow bar, so a 20mm solid bar may offer similar (or even greater) stiffness than a 22mm hollow bar. I leave the calculations to the engineers. In addition to reducing body roll, a stiffer sway bar will tend to help the car rotate better under cornering load, making it easier to drive through the corners. Too much RSB, and your car will be tail happy in the corners (oversteer). If you put a very stiff RSB on, you should also consider upgrading to a stiffer front sway bar. If you keep it moderate, your stock front bar should be fine.

• Self install: Maybe. Although it is a simple install (after all, it is a metal bar that bolts on), some people will prefer to have a shop do the install while they stand around sipping on their latte. Not that I’m picking on those people. After all, I’m one of them.

• Quick tip: Save your money - leave the you can leave the upgraded endlinks on the shelf. If you have a little more to spend, get some sturdier sway bar mounts instead (the OE mounts are quite flimsy). Another tip: Look for a used RSB in the member's classified section. Great bargains can be found and it's just a metal bar. Not much "wear and tear" can happen to it.

BRAKING: Performance Brake Pads

• What it is: A set of brake pads made of a compound that provides better initial “bite” (the way the pad feels when you depress the brake pedal), and improved heat resistance (resistance to “brake fade”).

• What it costs: Expect to pay $150- $200 for a full set (front and rear). Always upgrade both front and rear at the same time.

• Why consider it: Performance brake pads come in many different compounds. They are generally designed for either aggressive street use or autocross. Stay away from track-oriented pads when your main goal is to improve braking on the street. Track pads are designed to operate at higher temperatures than a street pad and, as a consequence, do not provide as much braking ability as a street pad when they are cold. The stock brakes in your Legacy GT are pretty well matched to the car. Many people, however, find that they do not like the way the stock brakes feel. An inexpensive way to remedy this is to install better brake pads. The stock pads emphasize longevity, economy and quiet operation. A more performance-oriented pad will place greater emphasis on actual braking performance. The trade-off might be somewhat faster rotor/pad wear, and an increase in noise and dusting. I personally have noticed very little additional noise or dust with my performance pads, certainly not enough to offset the performance (and safety) benefits they offer. If your budget allows and you are particularly displeased with the stock brake feel, consider upgrading to stainless steel brake lines and higher-temperature brake fluid. The brake fluid will resist boiling until higher temperatures, and the stainless steel lines will flex less than the rubber OE brake lines, giving the brake pedal a firmer feel.

• Self install: Maybe. If you have performed disc brake work before, this will probably be a simple upgrade for you. If not, leave it to the pros, or have an experienced friend help you.

APPEARANCE: Miscellaneous choices

• What it is: A multitude of choices exist. This is an opportunity to really personalize your car.

• What it costs: Free to $250+

• Why consider it: As you make improvements to the way your ride goes, stops and steers, you will likely want to make some aesthetic changes to separate your beauty from the Camry next to you. Such mods are so varied that I could never touch on them all, but here are a few popular suggestions that won’t make you default on your student loans:

• Debadging – You can remove some or all of the identifying badges on the car for a stealthier look.
  
• Cleared headlamps – You can remove the amber portion of the front turn signals (reflectors) for a cleaner look.
  
• Tinted windows – What better way to improve your ride’s appearance than a quality tint job?
  
• Modded grill – Many people dislike the stock grill. You can find instructions on how to do a DIY mesh grill, buy one from a member, or get one from many fine vendors on this site.
  
• Headlamp/fog upgrades – Whether you prefer the look of HIDs or just seek improved halogen bulbs, there are a lot of nice upgrades that will fit most people’s budget.

Note: For budgetary reasons, I am going to assume that items like aftermarket wheels, catback exhaust systems, or spoilers are out of the question. I recommend staying away from items like strut tower bars and battery tie downs at this stage in the game. Save your money for taking the car to the next level performance-wise.

• Self install: Varies. Some of these are very simple (debading), others call for professional help (tint).

Coming Soon! Taking your car to stage 1, 2, and beyond. As I get the time, I’ll add a more sections to this article. Stay tuned…

Nice read.

i concur.

question...why upgrade the rsb and not the front with it? outside of going to stiff.

pretty much the same as this but without the $$$ figures.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67940

pretty much the same as this but without the $$$ figures.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67940

Randy's post is much more exhaustive...more along the lines of unabomber's manifesto. I intend for this to remain more of a simple advice column to answer the age old question of "where to begin?"

question...why upgrade the rsb and not the front with it? outside of going to stiff.

I (personally) don't think it is necessary unless you have a very large RSB. Many people will have a different opinion, but I think that the front SB is adequate for most setups, so I figured the bargain beginner could leave it alone. I'm trying to keep this thread to what I (IMNSHO) think is essential.

Thats a nice write up, its too bad new ppl still won't bother to search and constantly repost basic questions

Plus i like your mod philosophy, improve braking and handling before power, unlike ppl who only consider things like exhaust, and a turbo upgrades as their first mods. I wonder how many of them trying to increase power without changing the tires, which should be first to go.

Great info!

I'm staying tuned for the part where it says how to rob a bank to afford your brake setup

I'm going to add this. format it to your liking

BLOW OFF VALVES:

fitment: LegacyGT 05+, 08wrx+

Flange: Looks like a diamond rather than the triangular shape from 02-07 wrx/sti

3 types: Recirculated (AKA 100% recirc, recirc), 50% recirc-50% vent (AKA 50-50, 50/50, anything with the numerals 5 and zero.) , 100% vent to atmosphere (AKA VTA)

RECIRCULATED: The stock "style" setup. Returns all metered air back into the system. If you want the sound, this is NOT for you. It is hard to hear unless you have an open element filter like a shortRAM intake or CAI. I didn't hear jack squat with my panel filter so I would not recommend that for sound's sake. Examples: Stock BOV, Recirculated Perrin BOV.

50-50: Setup for stock characteristics and sound. Returns some of the metered air back into the system. The rest goes out the other vent hole. You get the oh so happy sound you crave and you do not run into unwanted effects in the engine (See 100% VTA). Many of the 50-50 BOVS allow you to revert to recirculated or VTA as options by plugging some holes. plug the hole leading back to return hose whilst leaving the other hole open and you've got 100% vent to atmosphere. plug the hole venting to atmosphere whilst leaving the other hole open and you've got 100% recirc.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO NOT PLUG BOTH HOLES. BOV are not made for double penetration and as sexy as it sounds your turbo will give you dirty looks for the rest of its life... which wont be long.

Examples: AVO 50-50 BOV, GFB BOV

100% VTA (AKA I do whatever the hell i want): Takes the metered air and throws it all into the atmosphere. Lots of sound. Car runs rich for a split second as a result. Possible outcomes of running rich- fouled plugs, dirty bumper, flames coming out of your tailpipe running catless. Not many on the forums recommend this as the 50-50 option is almost always better. If you plug the return hose on your stock BOV you will get this effect but more than likely will stall when coming to a complete stop. Strap on a turkey call to the exit port of the BOV for hilarity. then remove the turkey call unless you want to stall at every stoplight.

Examples: HKS SSQV (if you like fast and furious this one is for you!) and some other ones I cant remember.

BOVS I have owned:

Stock: If you are reading this you know what it sounds like

HKS SSQV: I took it off after 15 minutes because everyone was looking at me. including the cop.

GFB 50/50 BOV: Took it off after 2 weeks because traces of compressor surge.

AVO 50/50 BOV: Took it off after 2 weeks because of compressor surge on my FMIC setup.

APS evo fitment dual port BOV: This thing is the titties if you have a FMIC. Almost no compressor surge, fits great and chicks dig it.

Adjusting your BOV:

if your BOV causes your car to sound like [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZUbo_mNDZM]this [/ame]you will need to adjust the little nut (usually at the top of the BOV or in your pants perhaps) to loosen the spring until you no longer make that funny turkey noise on medium to hard shifts. It is a bad sound. If you double penetrate your BOV you will also get this sound. Everytime this sound occurs an angel dies.

Please, think of the angels.

Do not make it too loose or you may have rough idle.

Purchasing your BOV:

Any of our fine vendors should carry a decent selection. Just tell them you have a Legacy.

If you are buying it used, make sure it comes with all the attachments necessary for the things you want. You may also need a new gasket for a nice seal if the old one got wrecked.

BOVs and FMIC:

Get one with a softer spring. AVO and GFB both have softer springs for their BOVs for FMIC use. AVO is a vendor here and whoever carries GFB should be able to source you the spring.

If your FMIC has a nipple/universal attachment get the APS evo fitment bov. i have no surge and holds enough boost.

Nice post OP!

lmao @ lawl:

Everytime this sound occurs an angel dies.

 

Please, think of the angels.

 

...At the risk of getting flamed by some of the suspension gurus on this site, I’ll try to explain its function. The sway bar more evenly distributes the cornering load between both sides of your suspension, thus keeping the car (overall) more “planted”...

Not a flame, more of a correction.

The swaybar actually does the opposite of what you describe. Through jacking forces, the bar transfers body roll into vertical load on the outside tire during turning.

Imagine a car of a given weight, cornering at a certain radius, at a certain speed. Based on the geometry of the car and it's weight distribution, the weight transfer from the inside wheels to the outside wheels will be proportionate to each axle based on the weight distribution (assuming no swaybars). So, a car with 50/50 weight distribution will have 50% of the weight transfer across the front axle, and 50% across the rear axle.

In the 50/50 scenario, and assuming all other variables being equal, this car is said to be neutral, since the cornering efficiency of each axle decreases at the same rate. However, in a car with 60/40 weight distribution, the weight transfer will be 60% across the front axle and the front tires lose cornering efficiency faster than the rear, which is an understeer condition.

To compensate for this, a stiffer rear swaybar will transfer some of the weight distribution to the rear, so that both axles lose cornering efficiency at roughly the same rate.

Everytime this sound occurs an angel dies.

 

Please, think of the angels.

Just think of how many angels died during the making of that video!!!!

 

 

POWER: Panel or “drop-in” filter

• What it is: This is simply an air filter element that flows more air than the stock element.
  

• What it costs: Around $50 (new).
  

• Why consider it: A great first “mod”, a performance-oriented panel filter can provide sharper throttle response and slightly more power. Some people feel the difference, others don’t. For the price, it is hard to go wrong, however, as most panel filters are washable (unlike the paper OE filter) so they can be run for many miles without the need for replacement. In addition to (potentially) feeling a bit more power, a panel filter may increase the sound of your car’s intake system. You will likely hear more of a slight “whoosh” sound coming from the front of your car, which many people like. This mod is essentially invisible, as the filter is enclosed within the factory airbox.
  

• Self install: Yes. Even your grandma could install this piece.

Great thread, SS, but I completely disagree with a panel filter being a power mod. For panel filter to be a power mod, the answer to all of these questions must be "yes".

• Does it flow more air? Probably.
  
• Can the engine take advantage of flowing more air through the filter? Probably not.
  
• Does it filter as well as OEM? Probably not.
  

Consider the level of evidence in bolstering performance. There isn't any. I just considered this last week as I shelled out another $15 for an OEM filter. If I thought it added 1HP while maintaining OEM filtration I probably would have gone for it.

When you consider that you may be fouling your MAF and not filtering as well, I think it's hard to go right.

However, in a car with 60/40 weight distribution, the weight transfer will be 60% across the front axle and the front tires lose cornering efficiency faster than the rear, which is an understeer condition. To compensate for this, a stiffer rear swaybar will transfer some of the weight distribution to the rear, so that both axles lose cornering efficiency at roughly the same rate.

I know we're off topic, but, Underdog, I think (if you're correct) you did a great job of helping me understand sways more. It's not "evening out" the roll necessarily, it's simply loading up the rear outside tire more than the front outside tire, correct? The only thing I still wonder, is if you load up the rear outside with more vertical load, it should, theoretically by friction formulas, have more grip, right? So why does it "oversteer"/"break away" more easily?