I bought a Legacy!!

I'm super excited. I just purchased my second Legacy this past week. The old one: 2002 Legacy GT Limited (214,xxx miles); The new one: 2009 Legacy GT Limited (125,xxx miles).

 

It's a black 5MT with a black interior. So far I've done the pads and rotors all around. It has old, dry winter tires on the stock wheels so I'm going in tomorrow to buy another set of wheels with some all-seasons or summer tires.

 

After the wheels/tires are fresh and balanced I'm gonna take it in to my local shop and see if they can find anything else that needs to be done.

• When I did the brakes I noticed that the front drivers side axle boot is leaking and

• the front control arm bushings are looking pretty dry and nasty.

• I feel like I can hear some wheel bearing noise from somewhere but I'm unsure.

• There's some disconcerting wobble at highway speeds.

• When I stop the car remotely quickly (in neutral, mind you) with the A/C on, the idle drops down to around 500rpm and feels like it's going to stall out.

• Cold idle is a little bit rough sometimes. It looks like some people on here have mentioned something about some O-Rings or gaskets on the TGV but I'm not sure how much a slightly rough cold idle matters.

• The gearbox doesn't really seem to let me shift quickly - like it comes out of gear fine but then immediately settles into neutral and so each shift (like 3rd to 4th) feels almost like two separate shifts which is a little frustrating. I don't expect that to ever get fixed though. Just thought I'd mention it to see if anyone else experienced that.

 

Some things I'd like to do in the future aside from fixing all the issues:

• EDIT: And a Tune!!! I am not sure when I need a tune or if a Cobb AccessPort is recommended or instead of a tune. Tune immediately? Tune after intake?

• Air intake

• Uppipe and Downpipe

• Aluminum skid plate maybe (I had one on my 2002 and it was great protection against surprise obstacles

• Short throw shifter - it looks like my only option really is Kartboy. Cobb's site says that their adjustable short throw shifter is not compatible with my car.

• Shift knob

• Suspension. The car sits a little high off the ground and has a little more wheel gap than I would like. I can't put 18's on it because then it would be even higher off the ground. I see people do that all too often and their cars look like dune buggies.

 

Thanks for reading, I hope to post here more often!

Get a tune immediately and leave the intake alone. Also remove the banjo filters. Check out the other build threads here and in the pictures sections to get an idea of what poeple are doing.

Yep do not change out the cold air intake you have on the car, the stock one is hard to beat.

 

Put Motul300 gear in the tranny. To drain the old fluid out you need to have the rear end higher then the front. Then raise the front. it holds 3.8qt's.

 

 

I just got my Motul 300 from my Tuner, who your going to want to talk to. http://www.tuningalliance.com tell Mike I sent you. He can walk you through what you need.

 

The Motul is not cheap but its the best thing currently out there for these 5mt.

 

 

The kartboy shifter is what you want, see what Mike can do for pricing.

 

He can also sell you the Invidia down pipe, you don't need the up pipe. Both my cars have Invidia pipes. I also use the GS 2X thick 3 inch gasket to mate the DP to the mid pipe.

Like Max said, change your gear oil, that should fix your shifting problems.

If you have skills and tools it's quite easy to make your own short shifter...I've done it on other cars but haven't tackled my 6MT yet.

As for a tune, you can get an AP and run their stock tunes, or try a Tactrix with an open source tune, or get a custom tune from Tuning Alliance or Infamous Tuning. Cobb's off the shelf tunes aren't all that great, though if you know what you're doing you can modify them with Cobb software. There are some very good free open source tunes (esp from MickeyD on RomRaider.com) but you will get ideal results with a good e-tune of course. It's recommended to tune immediately with a Stage 1 tune, but if you get an aftermarket downpipe you will NEED a Stage 2 tune. The up-pipe is unnecessary; your '09 already has a catless and going aftermarket will give negligible gains.

The leaking axle boot needs to be remedied. Either install another axle (I believe Raxles.com has a good replacement option or else OEM; there are lots of no-good aftermarket axles but haven't done much research myself) or reboot the axle yourself, there's a walk through or two somewhere on here.

As for suspension, coilovers are obviously the best but lowering springs on stock struts work great--don't cut your stock springs, lol. Swift or Tein H-Tech are well-liked.

to repeat what has been said... don't buy an intake. your stock system is very good and flows plenty of air.

 

kartboy shifters have better reviews than the Cobb anyway, as far as I have read.

 

also, lowering springs are the way to go. unless you want to spend $1600+ on coilovers, anything less than that is likely junk.

 

I'd vote for the Cobb AP over the tactrix cable - ease of use, support by pro tuners, etc. HOWEVER - the more important thing is to find a reputable tuner FIRST - then ask what device they prefer - get that one. It will likely be the Cobb AP. the "off-the-shelf" maps are not as bad as people say, but far from optimal for your car. I got my stock car protuned asap on the cobb AP and never looked back.

Thank you all for your responses! This information is invaluable to me.

 

So, forget the intake and the up-pipe. It sounds like what I'm looking at in the near-ish future are Motul 300 trans fluid, kartboy short shifter, downpipe, and of course a tune.

 

I'll be riding on the stock suspension for a while I think. $$$ It's comfortable at least.

 

...Also remove the banjo filters...

Is this the turbo banjo bolt that has the filter in it that gets clogged?

 

I'm a total newbie to tuning. I'm in southeastern Michigan. After a quick google search it looks like there's a nearby place that can help me out. I'll talk to them when I get a chance. I like the idea of being able to deal with someone nearby and in person (if they know what they're doing).

 

However, as I mentioned, I'll be first taking care of all of the necessary repairs and such. Thanks again! You guys are great!

 

(I can delete this image if the community would consider it disk space pollution but I think it's appropriate.)

The axle boot, if the CV is still good re-boot the OEM axle. There is a DIY thread below, there is also a recent video that shows a neat way to do it without messing with the axle nut.

 

You won't find a better axle and CV then the OEM one you have. If the CV joint is in good shape.

 

I've been through 3 left front axles on my wagon, I re-booted the right one.

 

The Tuner I linked you to is one of the best in the country if not the best, he's really that good with these cars.

 

In my years here, seems the 07-09's don't have the same issues as the 05-06 do with the banjo filters. My 09 still has them. My 05 has both removed.

I wouldn't be concerned with banjos on your 09 as Max said ^

 

I tend to go for axle replacement rather than fuss with the boot, but some prefer a more DIY approach. To me is faster to just swap an axle. I've gone through a few of them now on both my 02 wrx and the 08 specb.

OMG I'm spending all the money.

Don't even think about how much your going to be spending...I bought my wagon new, I'm paying for it the third time...

 

It's a love, hate relationship.

OMG I'm spending all the money.

 

You won't be short of enablers if you frequent this site

You won't be short of enablers if you frequent this site

 

Yea, we love to help others spend there money...we've had lot's of practice.

Yea, we love to help others spend there money...we've had lot's of practice.

 

We havnt even gotten to the sti trans swap yet. :lol:

1.) Are your clutch pedals heavy like mine? My 02 LGT never had a heavy clutch.

 

2.) Also, those of you with Rotella T6, how often do you change your oil? I always did my conventional oil at 3,000 miles but people with synthetic always claim they wait one hundred million miles to change their oil (it makes me anxious). I mostly do city driving with little bits of 10 mile at a time highway commutes.

I use T6 and still change it every 3k miles. Gives me peace of mind, but if you want to go longer you can always send a sample to blackstone see what your engine needs.

 

Otherwise you are just guessing.

I use T6 and still change it every 3k miles. Gives me peace of mind, but if you want to go longer you can always send a sample to blackstone see what your engine needs.

 

Otherwise you are just guessing.

 

Good call. Actually, now that I think about it, a gallon of T6 was only like $19 and change at Walmart which is only three bucks more than the conventional Valvoline I used in my old Legacy (although I think that was 5 quarts per jug).

Short throw shifter - it looks like my only option really is Kartboy. Cobb's site says that their adjustable short throw shifter is not compatible with my car.

 

My 05 LGT has the Cobb STS. Went with it for the adjustability(sp?), my throw is stupid short. Also do the bushing, front and rear!

 

Installed the short throw and front bushings. That completely transformed the shifting. Meaning before with the rubber front bushing it was kinda sorta hard to get in gear sometimes and was just a mushy gushy mess it felt like. With the front bushings it was solid and felt great, 150% improvement.

 

Now about 2 weeks ago I installed the rear bushing (complete pain in the butt). It was a pain probably due to me installing it inside the car (I didn't want to remove the heat shield under the car, so to remove the 2 bolts because I didn't have enough leverage inside; I had about 2' extension on a ratchet and was able to remove them under the car, now putting the dang rear bushing in was a pain because of the bolts not wanting to align up. But with some work I was able to get them started a few threads, climb back under the car with my 2' extension and tighten them back down. FUN right). Anyway having the rear bushing installed now made another improvement.

 

So the Cobb STS with the bushings was one of the best mods I've done to the car, so far.

I know what you mean about the two bolts for the rear bushing. I still haven't wanted to spend the time to get those two bolts started, I spend a few minutes on my back under the car trying to start those bolts and then say screw this....

I know what you mean about the two bolts for the rear bushing. I still haven't wanted to spend the time to get those two bolts started, I spend a few minutes on my back under the car trying to start those bolts and then say screw this....

 

 

I found the trick that I wish I would have found sooner after lots of pain, aches, cramps, bloody knuckles-fingers, much frustration. I always wanted to do the rear bushing from inside the car because of having to remove the heat shield and the O2 sensor looked like i would have to torch it off.

 

To start:

 

Take out the shifter (all of it, boot, the foam crap, that mounting plate...shifter thing all out). Remove old bushing...I did it underneath with about a 2' extension. Driver side was easy, Passenger side had to go through the LCA, over under axle if I remember. But I was not going to remove that head shield or O2 sensor.

 

From the inside of the car, start the passenger side bolt a couple turns with the bushing on of course.

Next take the other bolt and start to screw it in the driver side hole a couple turns with out the bushing. To see the angle degree that will be needed to start the bolt with the bushing.

 

Then, put the other side bolt through the bushing and you can feel the hole but can't get the hole to line up exactly.

 

Take a screwdriver (6"-10" shank) now and you wedge it in. (I'll get a photo somehow of it) But you wedge the screwdriver in between the passenger bolt and the hump of the bushing.

 

With your left hand pry it toward the right (passenger side). The screwdriver will be straight up before prying, there is a small spot where the mounting plate was (again if I can get or find a pic I will).

 

Use your left hand to do the prying toward the drivers side (left) and then use your right hand (remember the angle of how the bolt was, it was slightly angled to the ground for mine, not straight out...hence all the above step regarding angle degree).

 

Pry and start to thread the bolt a couple threads.

 

Then climb back under and tighten them up.

 

Now with the 'Stay complete, Gear Shift' part # 35031AC020 thingy. I had to grind off the end flat (not cut off but smooth down PITA hump on the end) to fit it in the hole on the rear bushing for it to slide in the bushing. Before I decided to grind it flat I tried everything else to get it to fit in that stinking hole. EVERYTHING!!! Grinded it smooth/flat, little grease and it went right in no problems.

 

Put everything back together and wollah! I really hope all that made sense but it worked for me. Pics would help I know and I'll see what I can do.

May be Saturday when I'm under there changing the tranny fluid and the weather decent I'm spend more time playing with the bushings. I've had then about 18 months. The tranny's been out 3 times in that time and I keep forgetting about the bushing kit.

Recommendations for brighter bulbs for the fog lights? They're pretty much useless right now. It would be nice to light up the road in front of me when it is raining at night and such.

 

• I got some Rotella T6 Diesel Oil and an OEM filter so I'll change my oil tomorrow.
  
• I'm getting ready to order the Kartboy short shifter and bushings combo in the hopes that I can actually even install the bushings myself.
  
• I'm waiting for my wheels to arrive and hoping they don't look terrible on my car. Also hoping for a good fitment and that the low profile tires don't pop on each commute.
  
• Got a few more things to fix and then I can look at Downpipe and Tune (and getting my old car ready to sell LOL)
  

Bulbs,

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/daniel-stern-lighting-and-subaru-headlight-options-45991.html

I got my summer wheels today. 18x8 Konig Runlites wearing 225/40/18 Falken Pro G4 All Seasons.

 

They stick out about an inch wider on each side and in the rear I had to partially roll the fender with the plastic handle of a small sledge hammer. It still rubs slightly when the suspension gets close to bottoming on really bad bumps.

 

If I can further roll the rear fenders thereby eliminating that problem, then I can look into coilovers or lowering springs. The front has significantly more wheel gap than the rear.

 

My neighbors were repulsed by the car's newly acquired aesthetic but they are not car enthusiasts and don't know what they're talking about. I'm pretty happy with it except for the fender rubbing.

Yep do not change out the cold air intake you have on the car, the stock one is hard to beat.

 

Put Motul300 gear in the tranny. To drain the old fluid out you need to have the rear end higher then the front. Then raise the front. it holds 3.8qt's.

 

 

I just got my Motul 300 from my Tuner, who your going to want to talk to. http://www.tuningalliance.com tell Mike I sent you. He can walk you through what you need.

 

The Motul is not cheap but its the best thing currently out there for these 5mt.

 

 

The kartboy shifter is what you want, see what Mike can do for pricing.

 

He can also sell you the Invidia down pipe, you don't need the up pipe. Both my cars have Invidia pipes. I also use the GS 2X thick 3 inch gasket to mate the DP to the mid pipe.

 

What is the advantage of the extra thick Grimmspeed exhaust gasket?

What is the advantage of the extra thick Grimmspeed exhaust gasket?

 

Thicker and seal better. You could always use the OEM one though. Also, your car suffers from saggy butt , hence the front gap being larger.