Engine Work Being Done - What Else Should I Do?

So, the abbreviated story of my current situation is my 06 LGT had a water pump failure, cause the timing belt to snap (already wasn't in great condition apparently) which may have caused further damage because I was traveling about 70 mph on the highway. So now the shop is pulling apart the engine to check the pieces out as it failed a compression test pretty severely.

My first question is since I'm in this deep into having the engine out, what are some things they need to check while in there? I know I'll be replacing the head gaskets, what else? I'm sitting right at 73k miles fyi

Secondly, what are some things to upgrade while in there? I'm going with a performance kit for the timing belt and water pump, but is there anything else that would be good to do? I'm not looking to make a crazy machine, the highest I'm thinking I'll get to is Stage II.

Thanks for all the help!

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I will not be doing the job, I do not have the time to devote to that. So that means I will be paying a trunk-full of pennies to have the guys at my shop do it. The last quoted price was ~$2300 if it's only the valves, as much as $3500 if the heads need to be remachined or just go with new ones. That includes labor, and it sounded reasonable to me for a whole engine job.

I've been looking at the engine build threads, and I'm definitely overwhelmed by most of it. I'm not looking to get crazy with my car. Stage 2 is definitely the highest I will consider going, it's my DD and any spirited driving happens in bursts, no track days or anything like that (as much as I would like to get into all that, I prefer having cash to travel!)

I guess my question is simply what are the things that you've seen fail and need replaced, and what upgrades would be worthwhile to do now?

Again, you guys are always a big help, so thank you for your time on these forums!

So, the abbreviated story of my current situation is my 06 LGT had a water pump failure, cause the timing belt to snap (already wasn't in great condition apparently) which may have caused further damage because I was traveling about 70 mph on the highway. So now the shop is pulling apart the engine to check the pieces out as it failed a compression test pretty severely.

 

My first question is since I'm in this deep into having the engine out, what are some things they need to check while in there? I know I'll be replacing the head gaskets, what else? I'm sitting right at 73k miles fyi

 

Secondly, what are some things to upgrade while in there? I'm going with a performance kit for the timing belt and water pump, but is there anything else that would be good to do? I'm not looking to make a crazy machine, the highest I'm thinking I'll get to is Stage II.

 

Thanks for all the help!

I will not be doing the job, I do not have the time to devote to that. So that means I will be paying a trunk-full of pennies to have the guys at my shop do it. The last quoted price was ~$2300 if it's only the valves, as much as $3500 if the heads need to be remachined or just go with new ones. That includes labor, and it sounded reasonable to me for a whole engine job.

 

I've been looking at the engine build threads, and I'm definitely overwhelmed by most of it. I'm not looking to get crazy with my car. Stage 2 is definitely the highest I will consider going, it's my DD and any spirited driving happens in bursts, no track days or anything like that (as much as I would like to get into all that, I prefer having cash to travel!)

 

I guess my question is simply what are the things that you've seen fail and need replaced, and what upgrades would be worthwhile to do now?

 

Again, you guys are always a big help, so thank you for your time on these forums!

Snapped belt at freeway speeds and a failed compression test -- I'm afraid you might be in it for quite a bit more than $3500, especially if you're not doing the work yourself. I suggest you prepare your anal for a figure that's about 7-8k. Fingers crossed that you got lucky!

Well like I said its hard to tell without seeing what happened inside. But hopefully your block and heads are still ok. Fingers crossed*

With that being said here is what I would do:

1. Have a machine shop bore out the cylinders 100th over and even up where the valves seat.

2. Replace your crank, pistons, and bearings. (rods are not a weak point)

3. Oil pickup tube and oil pump.

Your original crank would probably still work but the 2011+ crank is light years ahead for a pretty decent price.

That to me is going to be your best bang for your buck. You could always just buy a new premade block. But the way I see it is if yours is still good, make it better while you have the engine apart. Also why go back to stock and have to worry about the boost being to high or your rings failing early. Also just a fyi for everyone, if you bought your cars expecting not to do this some day you better sell it while your ahead haha.

Well like I said its hard to tell without seeing what happened inside. But hopefully your block and heads are still ok. Fingers crossed*

 

With that being said here is what I would do:

 

1. Have a machine shop bore out the cylinders 100th over and even up where the valves seat.

2. Replace your crank, pistons, and bearings. (rods are not a weak point)

3. Oil pickup tube and oil pump.

 

Your original crank would probably still work but the 2011+ crank is light years ahead for a pretty decent price.

 

 

That to me is going to be your best bang for your buck. You could always just buy a new premade block. But the way I see it is if yours is still good, make it better while you have the engine apart. Also why go back to stock and have to worry about the boost being to high or your rings failing early. Also just a fyi for everyone, if you bought your cars expecting not to do this some day you better sell it while your ahead haha.

Honestly, boring out and then buying pistons, bearings, etc, and paying the machine shop to put it all together -- it's way too much rigamarole. Buy the new OEM block. It comes all put together, ready for you to slap some ARP 260-7401 head studs in there, torque the heads down and begin putting everything back together.

Furthermore, even on a semi-closed deck block, taking meat out of the cylinders just isn't a good idea -

The stock block holds PLENTY of power.

The only reason I say to build the bottom end like so was because I had a Vf-52 with the standard mods(dp, tmic, etc) and a methanol injection. The methanol has a fail safe so I know that wasn't the problem. Also this was on a conservative tune of 18 psi. Anyways I was just driving to work like any other day and got the P0304 just putting. So that being said if that can happen without beating on the car I didn't want to just bring it back to how it was.

Then I got power hungry and threw in a bloush 440xt and injectors fuel pump clutch lightened flywheel tvg deletes etc etc. I don't recommend this if your looking to save monies lol.

Well, for the sake of being prepared for the conversation with my shop, where is a good place to look for a new block? I know they'll have connections, but if I can find a couple bucks cheaper somewhere online I'm sure that wouldn't hurt, right?

Have you not read my Shopping List yet?

I did, but I missed it the first time. Thanks!

Just got quoted, and they gave me a cost of $3300 for everything. The heads have to be done, and they're replacing the valves. Like I said, this shop has been extremely good as far as price and service, and even put their most experienced guy specifically on my car.

I'm not sure why it's so much lower than your guess, but this is what they're telling me. And I've checked the machine shop and everything and they're a quality place. So, that luck must be kicking in or something!

The only reason I say to build the bottom end like so was because I had a Vf-52 with the standard mods(dp, tmic, etc) and a methanol injection. The methanol has a fail safe so I know that wasn't the problem. Also this was on a conservative tune of 18 psi. Anyways I was just driving to work like any other day and got the P0304 just putting. So that being said if that can happen without beating on the car I didn't want to just bring it back to how it was.

Was your tune bad? How much power were you making?

"My first question is since I'm in this deep into having the engine out, what are some things they need to check while in there? I know I'll be replacing the head gaskets, what else? I'm sitting right at 73k miles fyi"

that's it? I would definitely be asking Subaru for some reimbursement

that's it? I would definitely be asking Subaru for some reimbursement

I vote this as the most idiotic statement of the day.

Subaru shouldn't be held responsible for the damages.

^ did you READ the first post? let me help you out

So, the abbreviated story of my current situation is my 06 LGT had a water pump failure, cause the timing belt to snap (already wasn't in great condition apparently)

so I asked mileage on car to which he replied

I'm sitting right at 73k miles fyi

yeah I would say that it's not the OPs fault and Subaru should step up and help him. So lets talk about idiotic comments, shall we?

BTW how can the dealer or whomever make the statement that the t-belt was not in good shape beforehand? the water pump tore it up....

There were parts on the belt that we're cracked, indicating it was going to be putting me in a bad place anyways. They haven't said yet as to why the water pump failed.

I did not believe it's power related, as my max boost (as far as my AP has reported) hits around 15psi. I'm on COBB OTS stage 1, so nothing crazy by any means. I'm going to see if Subaru will chip in a few bucks (test their customer service! Yay). Thanks for the encouragement to go to them, never hurts to ask!

Check your turbo as well. Have the shop get rid of the banjo filter.

Also I'm telling you from experience, that your engine will fail again. While the engine is apart at the very least change out the pistons and bearings. Save yourself some money.

Also the life of that turbo if it hasn't been changed out already is getting close to barrowed time. 70k-100k is the life span usually.

All stuff to think about. It adds up so quick. But spending a bit more now could save you from a $5000+ later.

Ohhh and my personal preference the engine mounts were way to soft. So I got the group n mounts. Little bit of rattle at idol but your engine doesn't try to jump out of the hood anymore lol.