Brake issues

Hi all,

 

So I just replaced all my brake pads, front and rear, only problem is, I'm having to jam the break pedal pretty much all the way to stop the car. There are no leaks from the brake system and the fluid reservoir is at the Max level. I did accidentally take off one of the drain bolts in the back for a second and then quickly put it back on before too much of the fluid came out. Did I mess something up? Please help!

 

Thanks,

Mike

Did you bleed the brake lines? It's always a good idea to bleed the system after replacing any pads/rotors. If you loosen up the bleeder on the back side, that might have allowed air bubbles to enter the line. Which would cause lack of peddle pressure. Bleed the brake lines to force any air bubbles out and see if that helps.

 

Also:

What brake pads did you put on?

How old is the brake fluid?

^^This. If you accidentally disconnected the hydraulic line or removed the bleeder, no matter how quickly you realized your error and reinstalled, you let air into the system. You need to bleed your brakes in the following order: Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front to be assured all the air is out of the system.

Okay, so I did screw up, crap!

 

F1inspiredLGT, the pads are standard stuff from Advance Autoparts. I've never changed the brake fluid.

 

GTEASER, so, how do I bleed the system? I got the order, is there an outline of exactly how to do it? Should I go out and buy some new fluid? If so, how much?

 

Thanks!

Buy the larger size bottle, since you're going to be bleed all 4 corners.

 

Check out youtube on how to bleed the brakes, it's a lot easier to watch and understand, than for me to explain it.

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPwM2vn3bT0]www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPwM2vn3bT0[/ame]

^Good video F1, that is exactly the way I have always done it, even when I worked on a race car crew. Never ever had a problem with that method. It goes "pumping (3-4x), holding, open, closed"...repeat. I would suggest using the closed end of the box end wrench, or a flare nut wrench, though to avoid the possibility of flattening the hex on bleeder valve. To thoroughly flush the system with new fluid, you will use about 3/4 of a liter of fluid. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir doesn't get emptied out as you are bleeding, keep it above the MIN line, otherwise you will suck new air into the system.

That's the way I aways did it. One time I bought a hand bleeder pump to see how effective it was, and didn't do a good enough job as the typical foot pump method. It's best to push the fluid out, than to suck it out.

Great! Thanks guys!

Last quick question, is the car safe to drive before I get this done?

Depends how mushy the pedal is and if the car will actually stop or not...during normal driving AND in an emergency situation. Only you can answer that question. But I would take care of this immediately if I were you.

^^Please err on the side of caution. Personally, I would fix this first before driving it.

Got it done, thanks for your help everyone!