Tips on Sway Bar End Link removal

Just checked my RSB bushings and they were still solid. Looked at the end links and they looked a bit grotty. I remember getting hit with a ridiculous bill from the dealer due to problems removing an end link on our Forrester. I know the deal with the allen wrench and stripping the bolt etc etc. Since I didn't have the endlinks in hand yet I gave both sides a good shot of Kroil penetrant. I might look into getting a cutting wheel just in case ;-) any other tips?

What did the dealer charge you to remove an end link?

 

If you used Kroil you're doing good. Make sure the allen seats well and see what you can do. Once it strips, start cutting. About all there is.

What did the dealer charge you to remove an end link?

 

If you used Kroil you're doing good. Make sure the allen seats well and see what you can do. Once it strips, start cutting. About all there is.

 

I've blocked it out of my memory but the car was in for wheel bearings etc as I recall. Everyone told me it was really lame for them to hit me for that labor. The pleasures of Subaru ownership...

End links is why they make a cut off wheel.

 

Works great.

 

I think its talked about in the DIY forum. I used a right angle tool to cut off the end links.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools.html?CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FAir%2BTools%2F%2F%2F%2FGrinders&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand

End links is why they make a cut off wheel.

 

Works great.

 

I think its talked about in the DIY forum. I used a right angle tool to cut off the end links.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools.html?CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FAir%2BTools%2F%2F%2F%2FGrinders&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand

You use the right tool? Double check you link?

 

 

WD40 soak and the right tools never had issues with mine FWIW but be ready to cut.

End links is why they make a cut off wheel.

 

Works great.

 

I think its talked about in the DIY forum. I used a right angle tool to cut off the end links.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools.html?CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FAir%2BTools%2F%2F%2F%2FGrinders&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand

 

By the time of my second post, I already ordered one!

try this one,

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools.html?CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FAir%2BTools%2F%2F%2F%2FGrinders&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand

 

I wonder how that Amazon link got in there...

+1 on cutting wheel and possibly angle grinder if you didnt cut close enough with the cutting wheel.

I just got thru this struggle yesterday without cutting the old links. It's just very slow because it's so tight in there. You have so little range of motion, you are probably best off if you have access to a lift. Installing the Moogs weren't any better with the same issue of not having room to work in. To add to my annoyance, I had both Whiteline and Energy Suspension RSB Bushings waiting to be installed. To my dismay they turned out to be too large. I had been told by Whiteline that front and back where the same. They apparently aren't unless I have a smaller RSB than normal(?). I need to get the the right part number for the Whitelines. Fortunately, the old ones were in decent shape and I just put them back in, adding teflon tape and silicone lube that came with the Energy kit. I actually think I feel a difference now, although it could be my imagination as the old links were not in bad shape.

 

I ran out of time and didn't get to do the rear diff oil change. I was achy all night from being in the creeper and uncomfortable positions for a long time. The rear diff change should be easy and I can get that done sometime this week.

I use vice grips quite often and some heat. It's easy enough to break the plastic ends off to reveal the metal ball for grip. Sometimes I get lucky and there's enough flat surface to grip depending on the end link design.

I use vice grips quite often and some heat. It's easy enough to break the plastic ends off to reveal the metal ball for grip. Sometimes I get lucky and there's enough flat surface to grip depending on the end link design.

 

Do you do this on a lift? I think even if I had gripped the metal with a vise grip, it would still have been very slow work backing the nut off. I hope I don't have to change those Moogs any time soon. BTW, I've read posts about torquing them properly. I don't know how you can get enough clearance on the nut that's up on the sway bar...

Sorry, yes I do. Don't worry so much about torque specs, just make sure it's tight. I avoid using the links that do not have a hex or flats on the backside when tightening. Putting some stress on the links will ease the installation process because the stud will not want to spin as you tighten the nut.

The OEM links must be very stiff. I put on a fatter RSB on my '15 and I didn't have to use the hex bit and even torqued it up to spec no problems. The Moogs do have the flats in the back that you can put a counter wrench on...