japanese or United states model

Subaru EJ20TT 2.0L Quad Cam Twin-turbo boxer engine.

 

if its availible has anyone seen one or know where to get one?

 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/2/23/Subaru_EJ20TT.jpg

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/2/23/Subaru_EJ20TT.jpg

This EJ20TT JDM motor is usually imported to the USA and is available from many ebay motors sellers. Just do a search in the engines and components section.

 

example:

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__subaru-ej20tt_W0QQ_nkwZsubaruQ20ej20ttQQ_fxdZ1QQ_ptasZ1

Nay, stay away from that engine; only pain and torment can come from it!

 

But they do pull hard on secondary (secondary being both turbo's running at once, it switches after 4000-4500 rpm)

 

The EJ20R (96-98GTB) is notorious for blowing big end bearings (mine did it), infact probably the worst EJ for it actually, the EJ20H (93-98GT) is nothing spectacular, and the EJ206 and 208 (98-03 Auto and manual apparently) are both more reliable, and pretty much all round better, but still not as good as an STi engine in most peoples opinion.

 

It took me only 3 months of ownership to blow the big end in my EJ20R GTB motor, i've since converted it to a Ver3/4 STi motor. Should be muuuuch better.

 

 

If you want a JDM engine. The Version 7 STi is the one to go for. That or build a Version3/4 STi engine with an 89-93 closed deck block. GTB heads are pretty much the same as the V3/4 i've read.

 

edit: If your in the US, don't use the Closed deck JDM 2L, use the the closed deck 2.2L block for a rebuild. You can use it with Ver. 3 heads and ECU too. (you can even run a 2.5L block in a JDM 2L engine)

I considered getting one a few years ago.

 

It is some work to get it into the engine bay.

I know quite a few people who drives the 2nd gen JDM Legacy with the EJ20TT engine from our local forum and they absolutely hate their twin turbo setup.

 

One of the main drawback is on the EJ20TT is that there will be a sudden loss of power when the second turbo is being switched on.

 

My own theory is that as the second turbo is being switched on, there is a sudden drop in exhaust pressure as some of the exhaust is being diverted to the second turbo. This would lead to a brief decrease in boost pressure from the first turbo and at the same time the second turbo has yet to fully spool up (turbo lag) resulting the in a sudden loss of power.

 

This problem exists in both the second and third generation Legacy and I know of a third gen Legacy owner who went as far as to swap in a single turbo from a WRX.

It's aptly named the valley of death (VoD), and ALWAYS strikes when you least want it to.

 

You're pretty much right on why it exist, it's actaully quite a bit more complicated than that, but can't remember exactly how it works (bah, 2am), there's phases in the crosover and... stuff... But, THERE IS A CURE! Two very good cures infact. The first is the Zerosports seqential controller, the other is the AVC-r boost controller

 

There is another cure, and that's to convert it to a single turbo! Mauahahahaha

or not mess with this setup

It's aptly named the valley of death (VoD), and ALWAYS strikes when you least want it to.

 

You're pretty much right on why it exist, it's actaully quite a bit more complicated than that, but can't remember exactly how it works (bah, 2am), there's phases in the crosover and... stuff... But, THERE IS A CURE! Two very good cures infact. The first is the Zerosports seqential controller, the other is the AVC-r boost controller

 

There is another cure, and that's to convert it to a single turbo! Mauahahahaha

But you can only make the second turbo come on earlier but not at the same time with the first turbo correct? By lowering the RPM at which the second turbo switches off, it is easier to keep your revs above that preset RPM and keep the turbo running avoiding that crossover period. At least that is what I hear from the second and third gen owners.

or not mess with this setup

agreed..!

But you can only make the second turbo come on earlier but not at the same time with the first turbo correct? By lowering the RPM at which the second turbo switches off, it is easier to keep your revs above that preset RPM and keep the turbo running avoiding that crossover period. At least that is what I hear from the second and third gen owners.

 

What it does is allow you to set the crosover point (where it changes from single to twin turbo) and return point (where it drops back to single) to anywhere between 3500 and 5000 RPM or something IIRC. I was loving mine, almost loving it enough to make me regret changing to single turbo. It really really does improve the drivability of the twins (BG5 in my case).

 

I had set mine to switch to twin at 4600, factory wanting to be closer to 4000. It just allowed me to cruise all day on primary with no worry of VOD at all. The downside (there's always a trade off) was that the primary runs out of puff above 4000-4200, and so boost actually tapers off between there and where you have the controller set. BUT, at the higher RPM, the secondary spool feels virtually instant, and you get a lovely kick in the back. I didn't have it long enough to play with other settings, so don't really know what it's like if you set crossover point lower than factory (at first glance, it was laggy as hell), or only slightly higher than factory.

 

And if you set the return point as low as it goes, you kill a bit more vod, buy not having the secondary valve close when you change gear close to vod, and despool the secondary turbo.

or not mess with this setup

 

Yes. if you mess with it, you will incur the wrath of the TT gods.

Moved this thread to Older Legacy Performance forum, anything pre BL goes here. Cheers.

I know quite a few people who drives the 2nd gen JDM Legacy with the EJ20TT engine from our local forum and they absolutely hate their twin turbo setup.

 

One of the main drawback is on the EJ20TT is that there will be a sudden loss of power when the second turbo is being switched on.

 

My own theory is that as the second turbo is being switched on, there is a sudden drop in exhaust pressure as some of the exhaust is being diverted to the second turbo. This would lead to a brief decrease in boost pressure from the first turbo and at the same time the second turbo has yet to fully spool up (turbo lag) resulting the in a sudden loss of power.

 

This problem exists in both the second and third generation Legacy and I know of a third gen Legacy owner who went as far as to swap in a single turbo from a WRX.

maybe there is a way of either re-mapping the ecu or getting a stand alone ecu to keep them both spooling at the same time. But thats intresting that only one spins then at 4K the other one turns on, any other cars do that?

Nay, stay away from that engine; only pain and torment can come from it!

 

But they do pull hard on secondary (secondary being both turbo's running at once, it switches after 4000-4500 rpm)

 

The EJ20R (96-98GTB) is notorious for blowing big end bearings (mine did it), infact probably the worst EJ for it actually, the EJ20H (93-98GT) is nothing spectacular, and the EJ206 and 208 (98-03 Auto and manual apparently) are both more reliable, and pretty much all round better, but still not as good as an STi engine in most peoples opinion.

 

It took me only 3 months of ownership to blow the big end in my EJ20R GTB motor, i've since converted it to a Ver3/4 STi motor. Should be muuuuch better.

 

 

If you want a JDM engine. The Version 7 STi is the one to go for. That or build a Version3/4 STi engine with an 89-93 closed deck block. GTB heads are pretty much the same as the V3/4 i've read.

 

edit: If your in the US, don't use the Closed deck JDM 2L, use the the closed deck 2.2L block for a rebuild. You can use it with Ver. 3 heads and ECU too. (you can even run a 2.5L block in a JDM 2L engine)

 

how much did the Ver3/4 STi motor cost you and where did you get it done? I could drop it in myself for the most part my friend graduated from UTI as master Mechanic he actually just put my stage 3 clutch in. I think between the two of us we could put it in. but i do need to find an sti motor, or at least an sti tranny. anyone know of a possible donor.

how much did the Ver3/4 STi motor cost you and where did you get it done? I could drop it in myself for the most part my friend graduated from UTI as master Mechanic he actually just put my stage 3 clutch in. I think between the two of us we could put it in. but i do need to find an sti motor, or at least an sti tranny. anyone know of a possible donor.

 

Cost me SFA for parts. labour was hefty.

 

I built it from the GTB bits. The GTB heads are the same except for some oil lines (Already had), The block is an 89 GT block, closed deck (free). The ECU is a V3 STi ECU, plugs right in, 98 GTB and 98 STi looms are the same! ($150), Intake manifold from a V4 STi ($60), Intercooler from a V6 STi ($100), Exhaust manifold from V2 WRX RA ($80 - I gladly found out these give much more torque!) Turbo from a V10/MY07 US STi ($330, less than 5000K on it) So it's more or less a Version 3 engine, with a closed deck block, and some blocked oil return lines on the left head.

 

The build itself sadly was about $4000, but that's with JE pistons and scat rods, ARP head studs, and built by possum bourne motorsport, renowned australasian rally car builders

 

Add on a cambelt, idlers, pumps, sensors, clutch, light weight flywheel, full 3" exhaust etc. etc. It all adds up to about $8000NZ, the price of the car in the first place.

 

And i'll point out that this is in NZ, all these bits you can find really easily. And all prices are in $NZ

maybe there is a way of either re-mapping the ecu or getting a stand alone ecu to keep them both spooling at the same time. But thats intresting that only one spins then at 4K the other one turns on, any other cars do that?

 

Nobody likes the Twin turbs'... ECU flashes and replacements are non exsistant. Thankfully JDM ECU's don't require friggin re-tune to moment you touch one component on the engine. Most cars get hevily modded, and the ECU's just stay un touched. I was shocked to see the ECU modded in stage 1 when i first started coming to the US sites, it's normally left till stage 5 or so before you even touch the ECU over here in NZ.

 

Is the ECU really touchy in USDM models or something? I can only assume they are very very tuned to handle the emmisions laws there...?

would you also be shocked if i told you greddy made a stand alone ECU for our cars for $680 plus software which is $180.

Cost me SFA for parts. labour was hefty.

 

I built it from the GTB bits. The GTB heads are the same except for some oil lines (Already had), The block is an 89 GT block, closed deck (free). The ECU is a V3 STi ECU, plugs right in, 98 GTB and 98 STi looms are the same! ($150), Intake manifold from a V4 STi ($60), Intercooler from a V6 STi ($100), Exhaust manifold from V2 WRX RA ($80 - I gladly found out these give much more torque!) Turbo from a V10/MY07 US STi ($330, less than 5000K on it) So it's more or less a Version 3 engine, with a closed deck block, and some blocked oil return lines on the left head.

 

The build itself sadly was about $4000, but that's with JE pistons and scat rods, ARP head studs, and built by possum bourne motorsport, renowned australasian rally car builders

 

Add on a cambelt, idlers, pumps, sensors, clutch, light weight flywheel, full 3" exhaust etc. etc. It all adds up to about $8000NZ, the price of the car in the first place.

 

And i'll point out that this is in NZ, all these bits you can find really easily. And all prices are in

 

 

wouldnt it just be cheaper to buy an sti race Block? stage 2 say? pertaining to what you said about never having to tune the ecu. How did you tune your car if you never touched your ECU. I am having mine tunned through the stock ecu, engine settings, including timming, boost, and a/f can be moddified by a tunner on the stock ecu.

It may have been cheaper to buy an STi race block, but the only one available it turned out wasn't for sale, the guy was going to use it for another season. Other cheap options we second hand engines, and well.. no thanks. And that price i gave includes a single conversion on top of the rebuild

 

Also what do you mean by tune? I've got a new exhaust, new turbo new intercoller, and that's about it. A mixture control computer thing (i forget their name) would be nice, and i do have an EBC to compliment the new turbo. after market ECU is only going to come after i have to (i.e. when i upgrade the injectors). That will probably be a link G3 or something similar.

i have to chuckle a little when people say they dont know what a tune is.... anyways.. a tune is when you go to a shop that has a dyno. They plug there computer with a tunning program into your ecu and do an intial dyno pull. That give them your wheel horse power and wheel tourque. From there they make adjustments to various parts of your ecu like boost, timming, fuel and air and a couple other things as well. After getting your HP and TQ again they moddify it once again till you make more HP and more TQ. I hope that helped a little explaining what tunning is.

Lol, i know what a tune is, got confused since you asked how i tuned it without touching the ECU, thought you meant something else.. (like a dealership offering a tune up, when all they do is changed the air filter and spark plugs )

 

In responce to the question though, the car's not tuned at all, it's just a stock V3 STi ecu! The only thing i had to do to run in on the TT loom was solder the ignition wires for cyl# 1 & 4 together, and 2 & 3 together. Since the STi's ran wasted spark, the GTB's didn't.