gergeek Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 So I kind of love my subaru..... I blew the left head gasket, and i am replacing both now in my school apt parking lot. So far ive put about 8 hours into it through out the school year, but i want it done by winter. http://i44.tinypic.com/vwvl0p.jpg Things Ive completed: Removed radremove air intakeac pump (off to side)steering pump (off to side)Removed rusted EGR pipe To do: Finish removing intake manifoldremove aux pulleyremove timing beltremove headsinspect headsclean headsorder/replace gasketsnot freeze to death I'm trying to remove the intake manifold, how do i remove this? or do i need too remove this sensor. http://i41.tinypic.com/334i14g.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 yes, disconnect that sensor. there are also 2 wire connection to the temp sensors under the intake on rthe passenger side. and 2 ? coolant hoses under the throttle body to disconnect . and the wire connector for the knock sensor under the throttle body on the drive side. tip: TAKE NOTE: the 98, ej25 has bucket and shim valve lash adjustment. when you remove the cam shafts from the heads, the shims (and maybe buckets) tend to spill out on the ground. this is a head ache. go to the parts store and buy a haynes manual. they are not perfect, but they will help. also look in the stickies and down load an FSM for your year or one next to your year. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/second-gen-factory-service-manuals-literature-186552.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Disconnect that sensor like John said. It should slide right off. Then undo the bolts on each side and lift it off (assuming you disconnected everything else). Print off an Internet coupon and but a harbor freight one ton shop crane and buy one for $100. Pull your engine out and take it to your dorm room. This will solve no. 8 on your to do list. Plus it will make doing all the other necessary and preventative work easy. And chicks will think you are bad ass. I would remove the crank pulley before you pull the motor. Either by placing a breaker bar on the bolt and resting it on the subframe or the ground and blipping the starter or using a screwdriver to hold the flywheel in place through the access hole on the side of the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vr4 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 When you remove the cams do not allow the shims and buckets to fall. Also do not mix them up. If you can get a cherry picker remove the engine. You will be much happier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gergeek Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 thanks guys.... as for the jack stand. I live on the second floor in my apt building, i might be able to lock the motor to the bike stand haha..... well if i pull it out i might be able to cart it upstairs, idk w/e my gf already thinks um nuts doing it myself, but i got this.... hope global warming is on my side so it stays warmer longer =) how do i disconnect that sensor? i looks like it unbolts but i didnt want to damage the wire while turning it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vr4 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Squeeze the black clip on the flat part and pull up. Leave the sensor in the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gergeek Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 oh ok nice, i couldnt tell if it was a clip or not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 You guys do know there are free factory service manuals on this forum right? Also I can almost guaranty you will have the headgaskets fail again if these steps aren't followed to the T. First you must use the updated OEM Subaru headgaskets, which are the MLS aka multi layer steel type gasket and use the updated Subaru TQ specs and sequences. It's probably one of the weirdest TQ sequences I've done and I think there's a back flip towards the end. LOL. Stay FAR away from those composite type gaskets. Many others have used FelPro and most didn't have success. Second, you will most likely have to get the heads machined. Every HG job on a NA 2.5 DOHC Subaru I've done in 15+ yrs of fixing cars needed them machined. Along with the heads the block surface needs to be checked with a straight edge. I would say 60% of the HG jobs needed the blocks to be machined as well. When the natural scrubbing effect occurs the MLS gasket will wear down certain parts on both the heads and block surfaces. On the block this mostly happens around the cylinder bores. If not taken care of will cause another HG failure. What I've done with the blocks in the past was used wet sand paper with water on a piece of square steel ( the steel is used cuz it's flat but you'll need a piece longer then the width of the block so ur sanding the entire surface at the same time) starting from 500 working to 2000 grit. You also must sand in a figure eight pattern, don't sand in any ol pattern. Doing this step will get the surface smooth enough to accept the new MLS gasket and to true it up. This will also show you any low spots but if there are some and you can't get them out via the wet sand paper you must have them machined. Finally the head bolts, anytime a bolt is toqured by using the toqure to yield method they must be replaced. In either case of toquring I always replace head bolts. It just extra insurance, and a cheap one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 You guys do know there are free factory service manuals on this forum right? https://doc-14-14-docsviewer.googleusercontent.com/viewer/securedownload/dsn1aovipa7l846lsfcf94nedj8q2p4u/gn2n1do1tetic5jmtkhhu6d74ocklmcm/1384867800000/ZXhwbG9yZXI=/AGZ5hq8BgbJY1gwaOYx83cPOdNw6/MEI2UDZkeWJNTXpnOUxYbGtlbUYxWmpZd1Ewaw==?docid=262e3204683f47b27744492a71cba5aa%7C702a1e7eedaaa203afc4570c516b30c4&chan=DgAAAID9qb0ctaH8twXKkx/BAaw%3D&sec=AHSqidZosWhaiEqLVrDUauyp9-N58YdlvRJ5plTfAzhs3zFJUuYyeGkkdSsDsDAbZLnf6B4WeouS&a=gp&filename=MSA5TCD96L6063.pdf&nonce=mkuptbt6bufp2&user=AGZ5hq8BgbJY1gwaOYx83cPOdNw6&hash=5agcp25sgljgl61aaptp9l2rqjq0v8fc not always as easy to find tho, took me a while to find this one when i was looking for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Your school condone's this behavior? I'm surprised the PTA isn't worried you'd get hurt and sue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 If you can't get a lift, remove the dogbone strut at the top of the engine, the exhaust manifold and engine mounts bolts, which will allow you to jack it up higher. You'll have to jack the engine up to get the clearance for the head bolts to come out. Here is a DIY head resurface ref. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ You will need an accurate torque wrench to do the cam bolts. The front is only 7.2 ft/lbs and the other pairs are 14.5. Any bolt that has red sealant on it, must have sealant on it upon install (they go into water jackets).Specifically one AC bolt and one PS bolt. To be able to remove the cam pulleys, you can use a wrench on the flats on the shaft itself while you use the 17 on the outside. You will need a good 12 pt 14mm socket to fit the head bolts. Read the fsm at least twice to be sure you know your procedures. O.Service Procedure Camshaft .pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprastarr Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 What kind of sealant do you put on the threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 none. there are very few bolts on a subaru engine that get sealant. the head bolts get 30wt oil on the threads, washers, and head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 The long bolt (right hand) on the PS pump gets sealant. I use red. Just about any will do. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Clean the headbolts really well too. I used a marker to do the angle bits of the torque procedure since I didn't have an angle wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 As for the jack stand. I live on the second floor in my apt building, i might be able to lock the motor to the bike stand haha..... well if i pull it out i might be able to cart it upstairs, idk w/e my gf already thinks um nuts doing it myself. When I did the HGs on the SS I had the motor on a stand and ran a cable lock through the wheel and the stand. Of course a resourceful crackhead could have unbolted the wheel or the motor but luckily it was always there the next morning. I also wrapped it up in a blue trap, lol. Once you get the heads off the shortblock you could pick it up by yourself no problem. I'm not saying its easy though. But strip the heads off and then you could move it up to the apartment and work on it and the heads in comfort. I'd take the disassembled shortblock and heads and take them to the car wash if possible and use the degreaser and pressure sprayer. But if that's not possible Simple Green, some scotch brite pads, a wire brush, and a lot of elbow grease can work wonders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Clean the headbolts really well too. I used a marker to do the angle bits of the torque procedure since I didn't have an angle wrench. Actually just placing a dot on the head of the bolt with a paint marker will work too. In any case the bolts need to be replaced. This is why every Subaru dealer stocks head bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 ... In any case the bolts need to be replaced. ....... Not true. Seems there will never be an end to this confusion. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 21, 2013 I Donated Share Posted November 21, 2013 I'd take the disassembled shortblock and heads and take them to the car wash if possible and use the degreaser and pressure sprayer. ehh. This idea is fine if the engine is reassembled and ran within a day or two, but if its going to sit for awhile its a really bad idea. I have a locked up shortblock sitting on top of my toolbox right now because of this. Actually just placing a dot on the head of the bolt with a paint marker will work too. In any case the bolts need to be replaced. This is why every Subaru dealer stocks head bolts. The factory service manual doesn't specify that the head bolts should be replaced...however they are cheap enough that you can do them anyways. I don't trust head bolts anymore after they have been removed. I've come across a few that gave issues after reusing them. All of the aftermarket companies "require" them to be replaced. From Felpro : "Part Number: HS26167PT-1 Warranty: 1 YR Notes: Head bolts not included, head bolts replacement required; PermaDry molded rubber valve cover gaskets, Premium valve stem seals included." I say better safe then sorry. Not true. Seems there will never be an end to this confusion. O. See above answer. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 ehh. This idea is fine if the engine is reassembled and ran within a day or two, but if its going to sit for awhile its a really bad idea. I have a locked up shortblock sitting on top of my toolbox right now because of this. I oiled the piston bores so they wouldn't rust up. Then the block sat outside for a few months under a tarp. It still turned fine. Then I split it. Why did your's lock up? Sounds like the safest thing to do is elbow grease and simple green, then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 high pressure washing is fine, as long as you make sure it gets dry (ill use compressed air to make sure). and after drying, make sure it gets some oil (or factory goo) inside to prevent rust. theres never any guarantee that things wont go bad, but theres a ton of things you can do to help make it a very small chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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